Author Topic: Rail stiffener to keep rail from sagging  (Read 3083 times)

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Offline James Watriss

  • Posts: 277
Rail stiffener to keep rail from sagging
« on: September 24, 2012, 12:09 AM »
I'd like to be able to stiffen the guide rail so it doesn't sag as much during routing operations where the rail is bridging a gap.

The rods that mate with the guide rail stops don't have to extend past the stops, which leaves that left T-track channel wide open. I'm thinking something like a spline that would bolt to that track, to stiffen the whole track, and ideally allow me to use it like an over-arm router. Still pondering the design characteristics of the operation, might require short (1" tall?) supports under the thin side of the rail. Ideally, the spline would actually have a groove that would be tapered in profile to match the ends of the guide stop rods, to help keep the router from tipping to the right.

In theory, this sounds simple to manufacture, but that's me.

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Offline Tinker

  • Posts: 3763
Re: Rail stiffener to keep rail from sagging
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2012, 08:04 AM »
I'm afraid I don't understand the problem.
The left side (far side from router bit) of the rail has two channels that automatically stiffen that side.  The other side of the router has an adjustable foot that supports the weight of the router.  The underside of the rail is resting on the material you are routing.  If there is a space of suspension, there is no way Festool can make an add-on that will cover every situation.  Sometimes, we must use our imagination to make such adjustments.  For me, i save lots of scraps and wedges for unusual situations.
Wayne H. Tinker

Offline wooden

  • Posts: 319
Re: Rail stiffener to keep rail from sagging
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2012, 12:25 PM »
If the span is not too long, you could use a guide rail connector to stiffen the FS track.

Offline James Watriss

  • Posts: 277
Re: Rail stiffener to keep rail from sagging
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2012, 01:50 PM »
I know this is a niche item. More likely, I'll have to have it fabbed on my own after doing some experiments.

Point is:

-Plywood of uneven thicknesses, sometimes I don't want to reference the surface, I want to leave a consistent thickness behind, so the outside is actually FLAT, and not slightly crowned due to sheets of tapering thickness resulting in dados of tapering depth.


In some solid wood projects I've wanted to have a groove or dado that has a flat bottom, even when the material was made to be varied in surface texture.

The T-tracks add some stability. I want more.