Author Topic: What Do You Use To Mark Wood? (Read 8562 times)

darita · « **on:** September 20, 2018, 03:39 PM »

For the finish measurements, of course I use a fine pencil, however for breaking down sheets and boards, I've been using white chalk, just for gross markings. Problem is, especially on the ply, the chalk is super tuff to get out with sandpaper. When you think you've sanded it out, you really haven't and sometimes it shows up during finishing.
So, what can I use for marking while I'm just breaking down?

Birdhunter · « **Reply #1 on:** September 20, 2018, 04:18 PM »

I use either a pencil mark or a strip of blue tape. Usually alcohol removes pencil marks. I use only alcohol with no oils (don’t use rubbing alcohol). I usually don’t mark the entire cut line only the beginning and end marks. If I want to mark the whole cut line, I apply blue tape and draw the line on it.

ChuckS · « **Reply #2 on:** September 20, 2018, 04:41 PM »

Using mostly hardwood for my projects. I mark stock with the pica dry pencils, if I want the marks to be seen easily (cabinet triangle markings, for instance) http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=71121&cat=1,42935,42936,43509,71121

They, too, are not so easy to remove with alcohol or eraser; planing or sanding (100x or so) is usually required.

For line marking, pencils (0.3mm up to 0.7mm) are used.

If pencil traces are to be avoided, I use masking tape and pencils.

darita · « **Reply #3 on:** September 20, 2018, 04:50 PM »

K...thanks. I recently made a large box out of thin ply. I used chalk marks to keep the orientation of the panels, prior to box jointing all the corners. That's where I had the issues.

lwoirhaye · « **Reply #4 on:** September 20, 2018, 06:22 PM »

Usually a standard pencil. I'll use a lumber crayon, chalk or a carpenters pencil when marking rough boards for crosscutting prior to final milling. I try to keep a yellow or white pencil around for finer marking on darker woods.

Birdhunter · « **Reply #5 on:** September 20, 2018, 07:58 PM »

I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

rmhinden · « **Reply #6 on:** September 20, 2018, 09:37 PM »

I mostly use Zebra DelGuard 0.5mm Lead Mechanical Pencils. It has an mechanism that makes it harder to break the lead. See: I think they are pretty cool and made in Japan.

I get them on Amazon, about $6. See: http://a.co/d/ft3UjmD They come in different colors.

They work well with the Incra rulers.

Naildrivingman · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2018, 10:18 PM »

Quote from: rmhinden on September 20, 2018, 09:37 PM

I mostly use Zebra DelGuard 0.5mm Lead Mechanical Pencils. It has an mechanism that makes it harder to break the lead. See: I think they are pretty cool and made in Japan.

I get them on Amazon, about $6. See: http://a.co/d/ft3UjmD They come in different colors.

They work well with the Incra rulers.

@rmhinden How does the metal tip hold up to being dropped? I’ve used Alvin 0.7 mm Draftmatics for many years, but the tips are pretty delicate.

rmhinden · « **Reply #8 on:** September 20, 2018, 10:24 PM »

Quote

@rmhinden How does the metal tip hold up to being dropped? I’ve used Alvin 0.7 mm Draftmatics for many years, but the tips are pretty delicate.

I haven't broken any. I occasional misplace them. I lost one recently when I was using my CT22 to clean up shavings on my workbench and sucked up the pencil :-( I decided I didn't want to take the bag apart to find it.

Ajax · « **Reply #9 on:** September 20, 2018, 10:59 PM »

Blood

Peter Halle · « **Reply #10 on:** September 21, 2018, 07:52 AM »

In looking at the Zebra pencil link posted above, for those who bleed green: https://www.amazon.com/Zebra-Mechanical-Pencil-Guard-P-MA85-LG/dp/B00NN3YZWA/ref=pd_sim_229_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NN3YZWA&pd_rd_r=477fd778-bd94-11e8-b3a9-1f5f95d9d540&pd_rd_w=ESaEl&pd_rd_wg=2Cmcs&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=M88GZ94G5K8MZGM298BY&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=M88GZ94G5K8MZGM298BY

It ships from Japan so instant gratification might not be enjoyed.

Peter

zapdafish · « **Reply #11 on:** September 21, 2018, 08:18 AM »

with rough lumber chalk, jointer takes care of marks. with ply a pencil and i usually just mark an inch at the start and inch at the end of the cut to align the track.

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #12 on:** September 21, 2018, 12:20 PM »

For smooth wood I like the Pentel Graph Gear.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAU2RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you remember to squeeze the pocket clip when you put it down you’ll never damage the tip since the pocket clip releases the lock that keeps the pencil point projected. The entire mechanism then withdraws into the barrel like a turtle’s head.

rst · « **Reply #13 on:** September 21, 2018, 02:09 PM »

I'm with Micheal K, I keep 5 & 7mm in my carpenter pants/shorts pocket. The 5mm works great with my new Woodpeckers Delvo squires as the retractable barrel fits perfectly into the holes. I'm not wild about the pencil Woodpeckers supplied with the set but the Pentals work great.

GoingMyWay · « **Reply #14 on:** September 21, 2018, 03:05 PM »

I bought a 12ct box of .7mm Paper Mate SharpWriter mechanical pencils last November for $3.32. I still have a few. They've worked well for me.

One downside to them is that they're not refillable. I keep a bunch spread around because I'm always misplacing my pencil.

Birdhunter · « **Reply #15 on:** September 21, 2018, 03:09 PM »

I have several rOtring pencils around. All metal design with 0.5mm lead. They are perfect for Woodworking and Sudoko.

Longhair · « **Reply #16 on:** September 21, 2018, 07:07 PM »

I prefer a pen for sudoko

Birdhunter · « **Reply #17 on:** September 21, 2018, 07:29 PM »

I pencil in the possible numbers in each square and erase them as they are eliminated. Can’t do that with a pen

Sparktrician · « **Reply #18 on:** September 21, 2018, 07:32 PM »

Quote from: Birdhunter on September 20, 2018, 07:58 PM

I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

Same here. I go so far as to mark inside, outside, front, back, top, bottom, plus any assembly notes or comments. Once everything is out of glue-up, I peel off the tape and sand lightly.

RobBob · « **Reply #19 on:** September 21, 2018, 07:39 PM »

Quote from: Sparktrician on September 21, 2018, 07:32 PM

Quote from: Birdhunter on September 20, 2018, 07:58 PM
I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

Same here. I go so far as to mark inside, outside, front, back, top, bottom, plus any assembly notes or comments. Once everything is out of glue-up, I peel off the tape and sand lightly.

Doesnt the Sharpie soak through the tape and mark the wood?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Birdhunter · « **Reply #20 on:** September 21, 2018, 08:46 PM »

I’ve never seen the Sharpie go through the blue tape.

HarveyWildes · « **Reply #21 on:** September 21, 2018, 09:23 PM »

Quote from: Ajax on September 20, 2018, 10:59 PM

Blood

Me too, not on purpose.

Grease pencils for mounting and planing.
Regular and mechanical pencils for everyday marking.
Blue tape if I really need to be careful.
Knives for cut lines.
Sharpie if I know it won't show.
I have a pica dry lead pencil, haven't figured out why it's special yet.

ChuckS · « **Reply #22 on:** September 21, 2018, 10:04 PM »

Quote from: HarveyWildes on September 21, 2018, 09:23 PM

Snip.
I have a pica dry lead pencil, haven't figured out why it's special yet.

You can sharpen the lead!

James Biddle · « **Reply #23 on:** September 21, 2018, 10:45 PM »

I discovered General's Charcoal White Pencils for marking on dark woods. They sharpen like normal pencils. Amazon carries them.

Frank-Jan · « **Reply #24 on:** September 22, 2018, 04:33 AM »

Quote from: GoingMyWay on September 21, 2018, 03:05 PM

I bought a 12ct box of .7mm Paper Mate SharpWriter mechanical pencils last November for $3.32. I still have a few. They've worked well for me.

One downside to them is that they're not refillable. I keep a bunch spread around because I'm always misplacing my pencil.

I was curious what a non-refillable mechanical pencil looked like. Found this:

Sparktrician · « **Reply #25 on:** September 22, 2018, 07:50 AM »

Quote from: RobBob on September 21, 2018, 07:39 PM

Quote from: Sparktrician on September 21, 2018, 07:32 PM
Quote from: Birdhunter on September 20, 2018, 07:58 PM
I use annotated blue tape to indicate parts that are supposed to go together. It’s just too easy to get mixed up. I normally use a Sharpie marker on the tape. When the parts are glued up, I peel off the tape.

Same here. I go so far as to mark inside, outside, front, back, top, bottom, plus any assembly notes or comments. Once everything is out of glue-up, I peel off the tape and sand lightly.
Doesnt the Sharpie soak through the tape and mark the wood?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I've never had any issues with bleed-through. Remember, blue tape is designed to prevent paint from getting through to protected surfaces.

Naildrivingman · « **Reply #26 on:** September 22, 2018, 08:19 AM »

Quote from: rst on September 21, 2018, 02:09 PM

I'm with Micheal K, I keep 5 & 7mm in my carpenter pants/shorts pocket. The 5mm works great with my new Woodpeckers Delvo squires as the retractable barrel fits perfectly into the holes. I'm not wild about the pencil Woodpeckers supplied with the set but the Pentals work great.

How do you guys feel about the mechanical durability of these Pentels? As I stated, I’ve been using the Alvin Draftmatics for years. In addition to not dropping the pencil tip down (they seem to always land tip down kinda like jelly toast), the internal mechanics wear out in about one year. I really like the Alvin’s, but at $15 each, they do get spendy.

Birdhunter · « **Reply #27 on:** September 22, 2018, 09:04 AM »

I have a few rOtring pencils that are about 5 or 6 years old and going strong. If you drop them on the tip, they are toast.

rst · « **Reply #28 on:** September 22, 2018, 10:53 AM »

Naildriver...I keep two Pentals in my pockets at all times. I tried various mechanicals before I settled on these. I've never had one break. As noted above the best thing is that the lead tube retracts up into the body even with the lead extended although I usually retract the lead anyway. I have at least 6-8 and keep them anywhere I might need a pencil. I've had Fastcaps Big boys, they fell apart still use Picas but the mechanicals do not need sharpening.

demographic · « **Reply #29 on:** September 23, 2018, 09:39 AM »

Lumber crayon, chisel tipped carpenters pencil of a knife, depending on what I'm marking or the level of accuracy I need although the lumber crayon is mostly for writing sizes on framing so I can see that size when I'm back on the ground or writing down what part fits to whatever other part.
Its only used for writing on first fix items that aren't seen when its finished.