Hello folks, I just spent a couple hours researching the rabbit hole that is track saw blades and I'm no further along

I have a corded Makita track saw which I plan to eventually replace with a TS55.  I'm building a custom MFT style assembly table with some accessories from Dash-board and just ordered some new tracks so I figure now is the time to standardize my blades.  So couple questions:

1. Any reason not to simply go with Festool blades?  I don't mind the fact that they'll be 160mm vs 165mm that I'm currently using in the Makita.  Price isn't my primary concern, rather cut quality and durability.

2. I suppose I should stick with the normal kerf versions, instead of the 1.8mm thin kerf blades as I'm using corded saws.  The blade I'm currently using is Makita's thin-kerf 56T blade, and it seems ok, but cut quality is more important than speed to me in the end.

3. If I stick with all Festool blades of the same kerf, will they all register the same in terms of the splinter guard?  I'd like to have a general purpose blade that I keep in the saw 80% of the time, but there are times when I want to be extra careful with veneered plywood or melamine etc or if I want to rip some hardwood which I'd want to swap blades for.

Would appreciate any advice.  Thanks!

If this were my problem, I'd purchase a single Festool blade, of the style you use most frequently, with the 1.8 kerf and try it out on your saw. See how you like it.

As woodferret mentioned, in the US at least, Festool no longer offers a 55 saw that uses the thicker blade. The HK, HKC, TS & TSC all use the thin kerf blades. Even the newly released TS 60 in Europe uses a 1.8 mm kerf blade.

All the thin kerf Festool blades are manufactured with the same 1.2 mm thick plate so all should index properly. For that matter, all the older thick kerf blades were also manufactured with the same 1.6 mm thick plate for interchangeability sake. It's the blades for the TS 75 that are the odd balls. 

For melamine I have had the best results with this aluminium blade. I score cut then cut through.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0798BG7KT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I find I need to clamp the track or I get slight movement between the score and through cut.

You do need the adaptor to use 5/8" arbour blades though.

Thanks for all the info folks.  Saved me a bit of grief down the road.

I'll pickup the Fine-cut 1.8mm blade and try it in the Makita for the time being.  Shouldn't be an issue since the Makita doesn't have a riving knife.

When I do eventually upgrade at least the investment in the blades won't be for not. 

Hello folks, I just spent a couple hours researching the rabbit hole that is track saw blades and I'm no further along

I have a corded Makita track saw which I plan to eventually replace with a TS55.  I'm building a custom MFT style assembly table with some accessories from Dash-board and just ordered some new tracks so I figure now is the time to standardize my blades.  So couple questions:

1. Any reason not to simply go with Festool blades?  I don't mind the fact that they'll be 160mm vs 165mm that I'm currently using in the Makita.  Price isn't my primary concern, rather cut quality and durability.

2. I suppose I should stick with the normal kerf versions, instead of the 1.8mm thin kerf blades as I'm using corded saws.  The blade I'm currently using is Makita's thin-kerf 56T blade, and it seems ok, but cut quality is more important than speed to me in the end.

3. If I stick with all Festool blades of the same kerf, will they all register the same in terms of the splinter guard?  I'd like to have a general purpose blade that I keep in the saw 80% of the time, but there are times when I want to be extra careful with veneered plywood or melamine etc or if I want to rip some hardwood which I'd want to swap blades for.

Would appreciate any advice.  Thanks!

Have been using Festool blades for many years. I’m able to get at least 2-3 sharpening with each.


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I use the Amana AGE blades on my Festool and Flex saws.  I actually run aluminum blades on all my saws including my table and slider saws.  This allows me to cut everything and especially plastics and the geometry is for practical purposed is the same as the aluminum blades.