Author Topic: To Carvex or not to Carvex…  (Read 5339 times)

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Offline TomK_2

  • Posts: 66
To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« on: July 28, 2022, 02:38 AM »
I’ve hated my Ryobi corded jigsaw since I first used it. Never cut at 90 deg and the blade always jumps out of the guide. I was drawn to the Carvex because of the carbide guides. Let me tell you they really work! Between the thicker FT blade and the guide I easily get a straight cut.

I read the thread about the grub screw hack before a bought the saw and thought to myself it can’t be that bad. It really is that bad. Maybe it was acceptable before my first cut but after my fourth the blade wobbles like a loose tooth! It is difficult to start my cuts in the correct location and I might as well forget that I got the collins coping foot because there is no way.

Now what to do? I can try the hack but that would void the warranty and make the saw not able to be returned. I am also concerned that the grub screw won’t stand up to the orbital setting if I tighten it enough to get the slop out. Is Carvex just a lost cause? Do I just send it back and go for the cheaper dewalt barrel grip?

I am very disappointed to the point that I’m thinking getting into the FT cordless line was a mistake.

 [crying]


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Offline woodbutcherbower

  • Posts: 381
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2022, 03:25 AM »
Rightly or wrongly, the Carvex is the one Festool tool which divides opinion more than any other - with there seemingly being more haters than lovers. I read about the hack and it seems to work very well according to those who’ve done it. It also has some really neat features. But for me - a premium tool should provide premium performance right out of the box, without its new owner having to goof around modifying it to get it to do what it’s supposed to do - and as you say, you’ll invalidate the warranty.

Putting all grey-and-green love aside, the Mafell P1CC is king in a class of one. Nothing else comes anywhere near close IMO, and their beautifully engineered, no-guide-wheels blade clamping mechanism eliminates every conceivable challenge offered up by every other machine out there. There’s also a Collins coping foot available for it. I fully realise that Mafell don’t have the kind of representation in NA as they do over here, but I really believe that anyone in the market for a high-end jigsaw owes it to himself to at least seek one out and try it.

Hope you get fixed up.
Kevin
« Last Edit: July 28, 2022, 07:31 AM by woodbutcherbower »

Offline Birdhunter

  • Posts: 3865
  • Woodworker, Sportsman, Retired
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2022, 06:48 AM »
If Mafell sold a battery jigsaw, I'd sell both my Festool units. I use the battery Festool jigsaw often and never the corded unit. 
Birdhunter

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 737
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2022, 06:54 AM »
I am not a big jig saw user and have looked at the cordless version of the carvex for over 2 years trying to decide if I should add it to the stable.  I finally had a project that I could use it on so purchased it.  It was the cordless barrel grip.  I had several issues with it but far and away the biggest was I just couldn't see the cut very well. I could not get close enough to my lines to keep from sanding all day to get it close.  It had to go back to FT.  I tried.

Offline woodbutcherbower

  • Posts: 381
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2022, 07:18 AM »
I had several issues with it but far and away the biggest was I just couldn't see the cut very well. I could not get close enough to my lines

One of the machine’s best party tricks, Rick. The whole baseplate will unclamp and slide backwards, putting the blade right at the front. Ultimate visibility for a critical cut, and also allows you to cut very close to a dead-stop vertical edge such as inside a kitchen cabinet.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2022, 07:42 AM by woodbutcherbower »

Offline glass1

  • Posts: 597
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2022, 07:19 AM »
Metabo ltx 140. It’s a beast. And if mafell ever makes a cordless the batteries will work on it.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 9880
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2022, 07:34 AM »
 Does it have to be a cordless? The Trion is a real nice jigsaw, it doesn't have the strobe lighting like the Carvex but function wise, I think it's superior to the Carvex. I own all 3 saws and rate them P1cc.....Trion............and some where.............back in the pack.....................Carvex.


Offline Lincoln

  • Posts: 259
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2022, 08:07 AM »
The Trion is really good and if I didn't have the Mafell, that would be the one I'd get. I'm actually surprised that it's still a 'current' tool, I assumed the Carvex replaced it.
And, never fear, cordless Mafell coming in 2023.

Online MikeGE

  • Posts: 369
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2022, 08:15 AM »
Does it have to be a cordless? The Trion is a real nice jigsaw, it doesn't have the strobe lighting like the Carvex but function wise, I think it's superior to the Carvex. I own all 3 saws and rate them P1cc.....Trion............and some where.............back in the pack.....................Carvex.

When I bought my jigsaw, I had the PS 420 EBQ-Plus on the counter ready to pay for it.  The store had four in stock, so I though it must be a popular model.  Without exception, all of the staff at the store recommended I buy nearly anything else than the Carvex.  According to their collective wisdom, the most returned Festool item by their professional and hobbyist customers is the Carvex.

The unanimous recommendation was the Mafell P1CC, but they didn't have any in stock and didn't know when they would receive the next shipment from Mafell.  The next best choice was the PS 300 EQ-Plus, so I bought their last one in stock.  When a brick and mortar Festool distributor steers me away from an expensive item to a less expensive item based on their return history, I take their advice.

So far, I'm still happy with the PS 300...except for the lack of visibility on the blade with the dust shroud installed.  A LED light would be a big improvement.

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5548
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #9 on: July 28, 2022, 10:13 AM »
Metabo ltx 140. It’s a beast. And if mafell ever makes a cordless the batteries will work on it.

Yesterday I had make an 8 foot rip in a dry hard bent and bowed yellow pine 2x4 with a tight growth ring pattern to fit an odd garden project. All to say it was a tough piece of wood that only a jigsaw could cope with.

I used the Metabo LTX 140 and like glass1 says it’s a beast. With a course fast cutting blade and maximum orbit the saw progressed at a comfortable speed.

This saw has twin led lights so I could still see the mark even as the saw moved in and out of shade. I didn’t have a plastic blade guard in front (instead it uses a bent wire to keep fingers from reaching the blade) but unless I pushed the machine too fast the saw’s little dust blower could keep the cut line clear enough to see. The other option to keep the line clear is to reduce the orbit setting but this cut didn’t require precision and there where mosquitoes around (mostly kept at bay with the Metabo 14” cordless fan).

From less good to bad, the saw is big (though well balanced with a 2amp battery) and long. I had to switch to a Metabo 18v reciprocating saw to make a cut close to an obstacle. (Great thing about Metabo recips is that they take T shank jigsaw blades and the shoe is adjustable) The bad thing about my Metabo 140 jigsaw is that when the base is set to 90 degrees it is a couple degrees off. I have to back the base off the notch and set the angle by eye.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2022, 10:29 AM by Michael Kellough »

Offline TomK_2

  • Posts: 66
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #10 on: July 28, 2022, 12:26 PM »
I am not a big jig saw user and have looked at the cordless version of the carvex for over 2 years trying to decide if I should add it to the stable.  I finally had a project that I could use it on so purchased it.  It was the cordless barrel grip.  I had several issues with it but far and away the biggest was I just couldn't see the cut very well. I could not get close enough to my lines to keep from sanding all day to get it close.  It had to go back to FT.  I tried.

I was notching out a window sill last night. I was able to get fairly close to my line but it was tricky to start because the blade will catch on the material due to the slop making fine adjustments/corrections difficult. It's like trying to thread a needle with a frayed piece of thread - it just keeps catching in the wrong place. I'll try to post a comparison to my Ryobi later today if I have time.

In addition, the Carvex strobe light would engage long before ramping up the speed in "A" mode. Seems like a bug in the software. I thought the strobe feature would be useful but I'd turn it off if this keeps happening so I don't spoil a cut.


Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5548
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #11 on: July 28, 2022, 12:54 PM »
With an unstable blade you might get better results starting at a low speed and no orbit, just to get a kerf established, then readjust the settings and position the blade in the kerf and proceed.

Offline TomK_2

  • Posts: 66
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #12 on: July 28, 2022, 03:17 PM »
With an unstable blade you might get better results starting at a low speed and no orbit, just to get a kerf established, then readjust the settings and position the blade in the kerf and proceed.

What you say is true, with orbit set to max it's much more difficult to accurately start the cut because of the additional blade wobble. I think my concern about the set screw's durability might be unfounded as I see that the blade actually moves backward in orbit mode which is going to be away from the screw/pin. This means that the pendulum will not get any tighter against the ball/spring than where you set it at rest (assuming the blade stops in the fully retracted position as it should).

Offline TomK_2

  • Posts: 66
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #13 on: July 28, 2022, 05:56 PM »
Here's two videos showing the blade wobble. One is a slow motion while running and the other compares the wobble vs. the Ryobi.

Ryobi vs Carvex Blade Wobble



Carvex Blade Wobble SloMo
« Last Edit: July 30, 2022, 10:30 PM by TomK_2 »

Offline glass1

  • Posts: 597
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #14 on: July 28, 2022, 07:56 PM »
The metabo ltx 140 feels in hand much like the trion. Longer due to the battery. But better sight line (really the trion main flaw). The light is a nice bonus. My she is not off. I thin I will pick a little top handle makita to complement the beast for tight stuff. I too use the small recip saws as jigs when needed. Wish list: Metabo and festool and mafell on samebattery platform. Peace is always more profitable than war.

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 737
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #15 on: July 28, 2022, 10:10 PM »
One of the machine’s best party tricks, Rick. The whole baseplate will unclamp and slide backwards, putting the blade right at the front. Ultimate visibility for a critical cut, and also allows you to cut very close to a dead-stop vertical edge such as inside a kitchen cabinet.
Is that fix for the Carvex or for the Mafell that you show?  I had no idea the Carvex could do that.  I thought I had watched the Festool Live videos and I don't remember that being an option.

Offline Lincoln

  • Posts: 259
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #16 on: July 28, 2022, 10:25 PM »
One of the machine’s best party tricks, Rick. The whole baseplate will unclamp and slide backwards, putting the blade right at the front. Ultimate visibility for a critical cut, and also allows you to cut very close to a dead-stop vertical edge such as inside a kitchen cabinet.
Is that fix for the Carvex or for the Mafell that you show?  I had no idea the Carvex could do that.  I thought I had watched the Festool Live videos and I don't remember that being an option.

Mafell.

Offline woodbutcherbower

  • Posts: 381
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #17 on: July 29, 2022, 02:43 AM »
One of the machine’s best party tricks, Rick. The whole baseplate will unclamp and slide backwards, putting the blade right at the front. Ultimate visibility for a critical cut, and also allows you to cut very close to a dead-stop vertical edge such as inside a kitchen cabinet.
Is that fix for the Carvex or for the Mafell that you show?  I had no idea the Carvex could do that.  I thought I had watched the Festool Live videos and I don't remember that being an option.

Mafell.

@Rick Herrick As Lincoln says above. You can tell it’s the Mafell because it’s red and has ‘Mafell’ written on it  [smile]

Offline mino

  • Posts: 1043
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #18 on: July 29, 2022, 09:25 AM »
To be fair to the Carvex, with the hot-swap base there is nothing preventing one to grind the front from one of his bases and achieve the same effect.
When The Machine has no brains, use yours.

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5548
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #19 on: July 29, 2022, 10:44 AM »
Correction, my Metabo 140 base is fine. I thought it was off at 90 degrees due to the blade having a bend. The Festool blade looked brand new so I did not check it closely.

Also, like the Maffell the Metabo is set to get as close to a wall as the reciprocal housing allows without the need of base mods.

« Last Edit: July 29, 2022, 10:47 AM by Michael Kellough »

Offline mino

  • Posts: 1043
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #20 on: July 29, 2022, 11:31 AM »
Correction, my Metabo 140 base is fine. I thought it was off at 90 degrees due to the blade having a bend. The Festool blade looked brand new so I did not check it closely.

Also, like the Maffell the Metabo is set to get as close to a wall as the reciprocal housing allows without the need of base mods.
And the Carvex ...

I believe the point was the Maffel base sliding back allows to cut all the way to a low vertical "step" where the step is low-enough to fit under the upper body of the saw.

Normally that is not possible as the saw bases are aligned not to the "cut start" line but to the top of the saw overhang plane. With a sliding base or with a grinded/modified base in case of the Carvex such cuts become possible.
When The Machine has no brains, use yours.

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5548
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #21 on: July 29, 2022, 12:07 PM »
Thanks for that mino. I looked at the photo of the Mafell again and now see the advantage. The Metabo can’t do that. Another guy hoping for a cordless Mafell jigsaw.

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 1682
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #22 on: July 30, 2022, 01:59 PM »
Here's two videos showing the blade wobble. One is a slow motion while running and the other compares the wobble vs. the Ryobi.





They weren't showing in your post here, but I copied the URLs and watched them.

That is some ridiculous stuff. Return that Carvex. Unless you really really want it, in that case; apply the grubscrew fix. Or maybe return it first a few times. Festool must really fix this.

What about getting the Trion. I have had the PS300 for over 10 years and it's a fine saw. None of this weird blade stuff.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2022, 02:01 PM by Coen »

Offline guybo

  • Posts: 386
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #23 on: July 30, 2022, 05:07 PM »
One of the machine’s best party tricks, Rick. The whole baseplate will unclamp and slide backwards, putting the blade right at the front. Ultimate visibility for a critical cut, and also allows you to cut very close to a dead-stop vertical edge such as inside a kitchen cabinet.
Is that fix for the Carvex or for the Mafell that you show?  I had no idea the Carvex could do that.  I thought I had watched the Festool Live videos and I don't remember that being an option.
Well it is not quite the same but it has worked in a pinch [eek]

Offline TomK_2

  • Posts: 66
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #24 on: July 30, 2022, 10:40 PM »

They weren't showing in your post here, but I copied the URLs and watched them.

That is some ridiculous stuff. Return that Carvex. Unless you really really want it, in that case; apply the grubscrew fix. Or maybe return it first a few times. Festool must really fix this.

What about getting the Trion. I have had the PS300 for over 10 years and it's a fine saw. None of this weird blade stuff.

Thanks - I'm not sure what happened to the URLs but I have fixed them now by modifying them to youtube.com instead of youtu.be

In the interest of time I decided to move forward with the Carvex for now. I have a bunch of base coping I need to do this week and I really don't want to switch over to the DeWalt cordless jigsaw as I know that design will give me the same kind of problems as the Ryobi with the straight cuts. I reluctantly bought the M4-10mm ball point set screws and installed one tonight. With the limited test cutting I've done it's a night and day difference. I'll see how things go with the coping before I call this fixed. I still wonder about the durability if that ball point is rolling on each stroke of the blade.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 9880
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #25 on: July 30, 2022, 11:10 PM »
I still wonder about the durability if that ball point is rolling on each stroke of the blade.

So just consider it to be a consumable like a jig saw blade and replace it every now and then.

Offline TomK_2

  • Posts: 66
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #26 on: July 31, 2022, 01:49 AM »
I still wonder about the durability if that ball point is rolling on each stroke of the blade.

So just consider it to be a consumable like a jig saw blade and replace it every now and then.

Yep that is a good point. After all, I have 9 more of these in a bag that I'm about to lose. I better throw them into the bottom of the systainer.

Offline mino

  • Posts: 1043
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #27 on: July 31, 2022, 06:38 AM »
I still wonder about the durability if that ball point is rolling on each stroke of the blade.
That is a non-issue. The original design has the same solution. The ball is not (meant to be) really rotating - there is a friction connection between the ball and the shaft which is lubricated along the shaft itself. Plus there is minimum pressure as the real pressure is on the other directions.

At most, over time the ball creates a small dent in the shaft. And that is again a non-issue - it would only helps guide the shaft a boit sideways.

The only real "concern" is for the screw to get out over time from vibration like the original smooth rod did.
When The Machine has no brains, use yours.

Offline Blues

  • Posts: 163
Re: To Carvex or not to Carvex…
« Reply #28 on: July 31, 2022, 10:49 PM »
The P1CC is in a class of its own. No comparison.
Yes there is no light.. but the airflow is designed to blow across the cutline and gets sucked right out if you have a vac..you always see the line even if you have minimal visibility.
The motor is a beast. Beautifully designed and the stroke is butter smooth. Might seem to get hot, but its designed that way.. its normal and will settle down.
The cunex blade while the cut is rough (have to use the splinter guard) provides stunning 90deg cuts every single time. Yes the base slides (great feature) once locked it 90deg even with any other blade. The tilting base is also great!
It's a joy to use the P1CC.. i reach for it evey single time.. even though i have a chordless makita that is fantastic.
Buy once.. buy the best..and focus on the build and not worry about the tool.