I saw this when you posted on IG. Very cool.

Very cool Matt.  Does the lip in the middle interfere with anything? Or does it help in assembly?

Vijay

Cool.

I suppose one could also make them on a router table with a round-over bit.   Anybody try that ?

FWIW...just to expand the consciousness of this forum, Domino's can be fabricated from various materials. They don't need to be fabricated from wood exclusively.

In this instance, I needed conventional SAE threaded holes in some Domino's and fabricated them from aluminum.

Keep experimenting, it works.

These could be made from extruded aluminum or extruded polycarbonate resin.  In either case ribs could be designed in to allow glue to flow, but the glue will not be of much use as most wood glues do not adhere well to aluminum or plastic.

Those boards will join nicely if you can depend on the surface glue to hold things together.  The dominoes would then be working as an alignment aid.

In that case, I think I would prefer to use a biscuit cutter and biscuits. 

The wood dominoes add to the glue area and on butt joints and in sheet goods it is a much stronger joint.  But for joining face grain to face grain, the added strength is probably not needed.

Personally I am not convinced that the aluminum dominoes are an advantage over the wood versions.  The wood versions will expand in the slots to add a mechanical aspect to the glue up. 

Quote from: Steve1 on April 28, 2021, 07:54 AM

Cool.

I suppose one could also make them on a router table with a round-over bit.   Anybody try that ?

I tried that.  It will work if you keep the dominos loose.  If you make them tight the glue being a liquid will not compress and will not allow the joint to come together.  I had the knifes made with glue relieves to allow the glue to move

I’ve made 8mm dominoes on the router table when I ran out previously.

I made a board a shade under 8mm thick first (about 7.9mm) then scored some very light grooves across it at 45 degrees with the table saw, the grooves were only about 0.5mm deep. These were for glue relief as per above.

Then ripped board to width, then rounded the edges on the router, then cut to length on crosscut box.

Took about 90 minutes to make about 200 dominoes.

Next time I might try a bullnose bit on the router if the dominoes are wide enough, would halve the time of the router operation.


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Quote from: Steve1 on April 28, 2021, 07:54 AM

Cool.

I suppose one could also make them on a router table with a round-over bit.   Anybody try that ?

I tried that.  It will work if you keep the dominos loose.  If you make them tight the glue being a liquid will not compress and will not allow the joint to come together.  I had the knifes made with glue relieves to allow the glue to move

Another option is to cut grooves on the shop-made tenons with a V-bit...it does require extra work on the router table though.

I guess my glue relief effort was pretty low-tech. I used a carving vee tool to carve in some grooves.

If you want the same tight fit you get with the authentic Dominos you need something like what the op made, or you need to find metric bullnose router bits.

I’ve made very close 8mm Dominos with a 5/16” bullnose bit but wasn’t able to find bits for the other sizes.

Mine were 6mm using an 1/8" radius round-over. Perfect fit on the ends.

The aluminum dominoes look like a good compromise between a knock-down connector and a fixed domino; the images above appear that they're being used to mount some sort of sacrificial or replaceable end cap.  Theoretically you could also thread the under-side if you needed to hold the dominos tighter and/or make them replaceable.

I would call these particular Dominos semi-knock-down because they're permanently epoxied into the walnut. That's the reason for the 3 "keys" that are machined into each side. The epoxy flows into the recesses and it's done.

Place the board on it's edge with the Dominos pointing up. Use a syringe to fill each mortise and move on to the next. When finished, the epoxy will have self-leveled and filled in the "keys" so just top off each mortise with a little more epoxy.



Yes, the Dominos retain a replaceable rear edge/cap for a countertop to make the initial fitting task easier. All fitting is done from the front and when completed, then the rear cap is attached.


Front edge:





Rear attached edge on RH side:




The bottom of the walnut countertop with the rear edge attached.

Re -
Making Dominoes - Glad that it “works” for you.👏
$68 for the molder knives sounds pretty reasonable.
But... I’m guessing that most of us woodworkers -
Don’t have a $2,795 William Hussey Molder.

Early on - More than once - I bought some 2” Beech wood -
And “sliced” it - And “diced” it into Dominoes -
With my: Table saw, router, and band saw -
With very acceptable resulting Dominoes.

But...
Given the COST per Domino - And the TIME involved - I quickly realized that -
I’d rather just buy ‘em - And spend my time actually WOODWORKING.😋
To each their own.🤷🏻

[
Interesting Chuck...I've used this method before for both aesthetics and to prevent the miters from opening.

What was used to cut the slots on the frame?

What was used to cut the slots on the frame?

I believe I used a table saw, the most difficult thing was to find a blade kerf that matches the thickness of the legs on the aluminum angle.

The kerf was cut too deep on the RH piece so I’ve just kept it around as a reminder and a sort of no-go gauge. 

Quote from: Cheese on April 28, 2021, 08:52 AM

FWIW...just to expand the consciousness of this forum, Domino's can be fabricated from various materials. They don't need to be fabricated from wood exclusively.

Snip.

The Domino machine can even be used to cut non-wood materials such as granite (?) countertops.

That would be 'solid surface' bench top material (Corian etc), not granite. There's no way it would cut granite.

Cheese[/member], have you ever used a lock domino setup to prevent miters from opening up?  It has worked very well for me in cabinet doors as well as in screen doors.

No Sparky @Sparktrician ...I haven't, but that's a great idea. Any photos for the visually challenged?

I only edged one floor with the aluminum angle/wood thing and then just changed to countersunk GRK screws with contrasting or same color plugs, it was so much easier and faster, although it doesn't have the same WOW factor. It also seems that people either LOVE or HATE the aluminum angle/wood interface, there's no in-between.