Corwin,
Thanks for the reply and the new video.  It is definatly clearer now.  For the hinged model I assume you are setting the router bit depth to kiss the top of the ridge on the rail that the hinge will be fastened to.  What size router bit are you using? 3/4"
And yes I'm off today but I have a lot going at the moment (trying to clean out our garage and make some selving. Also I don't have any extra sheet goods at the moment to make the jig out of.
I know what you mean about making jigs, they make a lot of jobs so much easier and much more accurate.
Again thanks for all the work you put into this, I will definatly try to make one of these soon.

Rusty

I figured it would become clearer. And yes, I am depicting setting the final depth of cut to match the top of the T-track portion of the guide rail -- that way the wing and rail sit flat once the hinge is installed. The bit size doesn't matter [yes, I used a 3/4" in multiple passes] as it is the depth of the rebate that matters. The width should be wider than the portion of the hinge that will be mounted there. I don't intend for the hinge to index off the inside edge of the rebate, so extra room is my preference. I use 1-1/2" piano hinge with my jigs - the piano hinge in the animation was downloaded from the SketchUp warehouse and was supposed to also be 1-1/2", but there's a longer story there... Mounting holes need to be drilled out as needed. The hinge doesn't align 'exactly' over the top of the T-track, but so what; there is an amount of slop with my hardware, and that works fine -- just pull rail tight to the wing before tightening down.

No pressure (or is that -- oh, never mind ) with making your own jig. I'm just kidding. Well, kind of... 

Sorry to dominate this thread. But then again, it is threads like this that have prompted me to take the time on this project. Maybe in the future we can instead be discussing how to, rather than if we can cut narrow stock with our track saws.

Corwin,

I would love to do an un-edited video to show your original idea in real life - giving you credit or course?  I don't have the time to do your flip down jig.

Peter

I would love that too! 

Once you've made the basic 'instructional' version, I think you may just find the time... Well, sometime, that is. 

With the first version, one need consider the height of the spacer (or piece you are attempting to duplicate) between the fence and rail. The saw's motor housing sticks out to the left of the rail and anything too tall, and too close (as it would be in this case,) may interfere -- the saw's depth of cut enters into this... The winged version eliminates this issue. This same consideration comes into play when cutting, for instance, sheet material using the method shown in the beginning of the animation. There, I could have used the first piece I cut -- the one that matches the width of your rail -- below the rail, to cut the narrow strips for the fences IF I had a spacer that was shorter and wouldn't be in the way. Same type situation solved the same way.

Corwin,
Fantastic job! I will be making one of these.  Thank you for all the hard work you put into the video and just coming up with the jig itself.  You're a "Good man Charley Brown"!

Rusty

Welcome to the FOG, Dave! And thank you for your comments. 

The link on reply #93 works.  The previous ones do not.  But #93 is his latest and it's really good.  Makes me rethink about the space my table saw is taking up. 

Try this plunge into the end of the stock just far enough in to allow the full exposed blade to "plungein". The gently back up a 1/4", then complete your cut.
Also, how long are your pieces? Can you rig up a set of scrap pieces so there is a trench, with an outer "wall" to the right of the track and a "sacrificial fence" block at the end?
Say some scrap or extra stock brad nailed to a sheet of plywood with a piece wide enough to support the track, another to the right of that piece to just admit the work piece and the sacrificial stop block at the far end?

The heading isn't clear, but by TS, the thread is about the Track Saw. (Some people use the Grr-ripper to make 1/8" strips with ease on the table saw.).

Do most people get rid of their table saws after buying a track saw?

Nope. Still use my table saw 90% of the time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do both sheet goods work and hardwood too. I would never even think about getting rid of a tablesaw, but the tracksaw gets it's share of work too.  They each have their strengths.
Tracksaws are great for breaking down sheet goods, but I see them as finish cuts. I see way too many people, especially Youtubers, consider that a preliminary step to do the final cut on a tablesaw.
Tablesaw definitely for repetitive strips in sheet goods, dados, rabbets, etc.
I certainly wouldn't taper a table leg with a tracksaw, but they excel on cuts were the object to be cut is large/long/heavy.