1900 is pretty long I think.

I got 2x1400 with the connector. So I can rip 2800.

1400 is a nice size to handle. Not a pro, just my 2cts.


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Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your first tool, let us know if the depth of cut is a concern ? I am also considering an hkc55 and would appreciate feedback on the depth as well as a potential lack of power being cordless?

My only thought is if you get a 1400 rail get the one w the 32mm holes as it gives you more options IMO.

Had my HKC for 3 years along with the 420 rail (also have TS55+Many rails)

The HKC feels like it has only just enough power. It will cut dry lumber to full depth all day, wet lumber will bog it down noticeably but it will still do the job with an occasional stall. These days I have a Bluetooth vac so I've been using the saw more for plywood than I used to, here it performs wonderfully, though it's def a little slower than the TS55. I haven't done much ripping of hardwoods with it, my memory is that it will do it but it's on the slow side compared to the 36v TSC or Mains versions.

I do like how long the batteries last though. No real comparisons from my end, just often surprised how long the batteries last. Two batteries is enough to cut all day.

As to rail length, I like my FSK420 for the flexibility, especially to do angled cuts, that I imagine the FSK250 couldn't reach. But I find it pretty heavy and unwieldy for a days use and often wish I had the smaller rail when just cutting 2x4 to length. So that makes me think that the FSK670 would really be un-fun to use unless you really need that length of cut in this kind of setup.

I wouldn't want the HKC to be my only saw, I'd still choose the TS55 for that, but the HKC really could be my only saw, and I'd buy it again in a minute if something happened to mine.

What mrB said.

I’ve got all 3 FSK rails. I’ve yet to use the 670. I know I will, but the 250 is a real gem for most up to 2x6 til past 45° mitre or even 2x8 if less than 45° (Again, timber are apparently measured differently by different country’s, A 2x4” is 48x98mm here, and not true 2x4 inches - Most of us still call our timber by imperial, but measure in metric)
Try do your own calculations, or even dry test a FSK rail to measure which dimensions it will cut for you. You can draw an arch measuring 250, 420 and 670mm starting at 90° from an edge and move the arch to at least 60° - then measure what each rail will cut at your measured angles (mitre cut). The cut capacity decreases as the angle increases or decreases from 90°.

I absolutely love mine, the features, handling, cut quality, ease and weight makes it a winner. As mrB says, battery capacity is great. It may “lack” power on thick wet or very dense timber with “just” 18V, but a bit patience makes more than up for carrying something that would have been a lot heavier and bulkier with 2x18V. Let the saw do the job and don’t push too hard and you’ll be fine.

I’ve been looking into adding a HKC 55. I agree about the 250 rail for dimensional lumber. It cuts a 9.8”? Crosscut..so unless your cutting 2x10 at an angle it should be fine. For sheet goods then the longer lengths are a better fit. The HK saw will also ride on a FS rail....

I ended up purchasing the HKC 55 with the 420 rail and added a 250 afterwards. In hindsight, i wished I had opted for the 670 and the 250. There has been times I’ve wished for more capacity than is available with the 420. Finally broke down and ordered the 670, (which just arrived today), so now have all three to choose from.

I already had a large number of the FS rails before I purchased the HKC, so didn’t have any choices to make there. If I had to make a recommendation, I’d probably suggest getting a 1900 and a 1080. Coupled together, they allow lengthwise cuts on a full sheet of plywood, and I prefer to crosscut plywood with a rail longer than the 1400, as I find it borderline long enough, especially when you add a rail square to it.

What @thudchkr said makes for an narrowed down versatile set up.

Remember to think your use, realistically and potentially realistic.
It’s easy to get carried away for what other users use their tool for. That might not be right for you. A 670 gives value for money, it is the longest FSK rail as pr. today.
Let’s say you use it mostly stationary, not constantly carrying it around cutting narrow stock outside on a lumber pile, on scaffolding, on a roof, on a trailer etc.

A 670 gives you opportunity to cut almost any angle repetitively. You can set an odd angle from a bevel/protractor and cut repeatedly. The downside with the longer FSK is carry abilities for narrow stock. Then again, for roofing, up a scaffold it’s a saver compared to other saws, and it feels and is a lot more secure to work with in difficult conditions compared to a regular circle/skil saw and get perfect cuts (where a plunge saw don’t belong)

So, I would skip the 420 to save, and go for 250 and 670. (Pricing in a set brought me the 420)