That was a sad day in Tool Town when Elu was absorbed by DeWalt.

My first CS70 also had a fence that wasn't perpendicular to the table anymore, but in my case it slanted away from the blade; I was planning on sending it into service because it was having a few other problems (it was 8 years old, but it got stolen from a jobsite before I got to it).
I noticed it when I had to make a lot of thin rips, and was referencing of the fence instead of the table; later I worked around it by using wider material if I needed thin rips (If the stock is alreay thin; you can't reference of the table, because of the opening where the blade travels for pull-cuts).

I can see that in your case it is more annoying, even when setting the width. (if it slants away, you can just measure at the table, if it slants towards the blade, you'd have to measure at the thickness of your stock  (I don't remember by how much mine was off, but I'm guessing more than 0.25mm)

Does it make a difference if you use a different V-groove? (front or side)

The slot in the table is NOT a miterslot, but for clamping.

The accuracy has always been good enough for my needs, (I'm just a carpenter, not a cabinetmaker) I never had to calibrate the miterguage on my first saw. (which I had to do on my kapex after 6 months of use).

I also have a Nobex, I remember I really didn't like the accuracy when I needed to trim just a bit extra off an already cut miter.

If the fence bends when making ripcuts, you're putting too much pressure towards the fence (more than needed).  (I also have the ripfence that clamps at both sides, but rarely use it, because it's a hassle to switch from ripping to crosscutting)

I do feel that the build quality of my second CS70 is not up to par with the old one, I had to fix the leveling foot to keep it from turning inside the leg and thus lowering the saw; and at startup the blade shivers a bit (the cuts are still accurate, but if I install one of those green anti-splinterblocks, it will get damaged. And the free accessory, the transporting wheels were in a damaged box and one of them turns really hard (but hey, you can't look a given horse in the mouth)

(I wanted to send it back the week after I got it, because the festool rep would be at the dealer I got the saw from; but meanwhile my father managed to cut into the fence  and he  also tried to bevel the saw with a splinterblock installed I think, because there are teethmarks on the part you swivel up to change the blade; so the fact that the shivering was there from the factory became a lot less plausible)

As for the blade change, it takes a few more steps, but it looks a lot more comfortable than on a mafell erica. (Plenty of room, from above the table, and you can use a regular spanner on the arbornut aswell, in case it has gotten too stuck)

Hmmm interesting post Frank-Jan,

I try to set my fence up so the rear of the fence is farther away from the blade then the front of the fence not much maybe .003 to stop kick back.

But that was using a American style Fence that extends the length of the table and not the euro style which only goes to the rear of the blade.

Michael: I am surprised at your troubles with the CS70. I had one with all accessories for a couple of years and once set up it was very accurate and solid. Are you running the LA rip fence? It is a must have (I think) and it was only lack of space in my smaller work shop that caused me to sell the CS70. The projects I ran on that saw always came out great regardless of size timber or panel. Set up took a few hours but once set up all the add ons could be removed and reinserted with no loss of accuracy.

I always liked the Erica 70/85 but the weight puts me off a little - as it did with the CS70.

We have a large format saw at the larger shop so I didn't really need the CS70 (nor the Erika) and with all the bells and whistles it was too heavy for on site work. I replaced it with a Bosch XC10 which did a good job too - but I no longer have it, I don't haul that size saw around anymore. If I had a medium sized shop and could not fit a larger saw I would still be very happy with the CS70, and in a pinch, the XC10.

I'm used to the euro style fence now. It's what I use on my CMS. I still have the rear of the fence about  mil out from the front.

Haven't had any issues with it.

Michael: I am surprised at your troubles with the CS70. I had one with all accessories for a couple of years and once set up it was very accurate and solid. Are you running the LA rip fence? It is a must have (I think) and it was only lack of space in my smaller work shop that caused me to sell the CS70. The projects I ran on that saw always came out great regardless of size timber or panel. Set up took a few hours but once set up all the add ons could be removed and reinserted with no loss of accuracy.
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I always liked the Erica 70/85 but the weight puts me off a little - as it did with the CS70.

We have a large format saw at the larger shop so I didn't really need the CS70 (nor the Erika) and with all the bells and whistles it was too heavy for on site work. I replaced it with a Bosch XC10 which did a good job too - but I no longer have it, I don't haul that size saw around anymore. If I had a medium sized shop and could not fit a larger saw I would still be very happy with the CS70, and in a pinch, the XC10.

i was surprised too. some of my issues might be related to myself being somewhat of a novice but there is no mistaking the fence being misaligned, which i think is horrendous and inexcusable for such an expensive tool.

btw, i mostly make picture frames and furniture. i just started to get into joinery. so small mistakes, small inaccuracies are often big problems to me.

that bosch gets a lot of talk. my friend has one too. waiting to hear how he likes it.

Michael, have you succeeded in contacting Festool germany already? Did they give you an answer?

If you have trouble with the fence, perhaps it could be solved if they send you a new one.

Hi Alex. I am still trying to contact festool. so far my retailer and the local greek rep. have been resistent to helping me. my german retailer wants me to bring the machine to my technician, which i cannot do as i do not have a car nor a truck. and it is obvious that the problem is the fence so why must i bring the entire machine across the city?

or i can send it to germany festool hq. so neither is possible.

i sent a message to festool international on friday. hopefully they will get back to me soon. all i want is a new miter fence. hopefully the next one will be better. the actual fence part of the miter gauge is not tall enough, by about 2 mm.

thanks for your follow up alex. i appreciate it.

Well i wouldn't just want to send you a new fence either if i were them. What if the fence isn't the actual problem what if its how the fence is mounting or something of that nature. It's only fair that if you want them to fix it you let them look at it. The issue may be obvious to you but haven't not seen it how can your festool rep know the issue?

How do you get around town with such an expensive machine? You must have some way of getting it places.

Yeah, ok, they have reason to be skeptical, but on the other hand, the technician agreed with me. And I think the tech should have come to my house and seen the machine in person. It's their responsibility to see that my machine works as it is supposed to--that is the deal we agreed to when i paid them $2,500 or whatnot.

i don't get around town with this machine. i don't own a car. i live in athens, we have a great metro system here.

I don't think your problem can be fixed with just a new fence; when mine was off, it was off the same amount with the standard fence; my mft3 fence, and the CS70LA fence.

My guess was that the origin of the problem was the saw itself developped som kind of twist caused by lots of transport and not always being on an even surface. (Never found out though; and in your case the transport cannot be the issue  )

Just a thought I not 100% sure how the fence mounts on the pressio saw as I don't have. I can't imagine it being that radically different to the erika. Is the surface that fence clamps to square. If not that might be your problem area

i'm not a fan of this v groove attachment type. seems to me that festool created this awkward system just to keep out competitors and force customers to buy more of their products (add-ons).

With the V-groove anything you add is laying directly on the table instead of hanging on the side. Makes more sense to me because the extension is now both supported and referenced by the table.   

I don't understand why everyone hates the rip fence. It works great in my opinion, big knob sets it parallel to the blade, lever locks it front and back, with a simple but effective micro adjust, plus the sub fence which can be brought forward for rips in timber. Easy, accurate and solid.

I don't hate the ripfence, I used it extensively this afternoon when cutting rebates.

I rarely use it because it's a bit of a hassle to mount and take off.
With the V-groove and the coarse thread on the knob you can quickly install  and reïnstall the standard fence to switch from ripping to crosscutting.

Due to the micro-adjust, you have to slide the ripfence in from the side (extra hassle if the sidetable is installed) The extra long auxiliary fence on it is nice, but if you don't have the rear extension installed, (so the blade is in the middle position for ripping) and you don't want it extending past the center of the blade, it sticks out quite a bit towards you.

A lot of people say the standard fence is "junk, garbage,etc." and the CSLA is a musthave; because you can bend the standard fence out of allignment if you push hard enough. But... in most cases you don't need to push that hard towards the fence, just guide it smoothly along.

If I'm ripping stuff that's a bit unwieldy I'm glad I have CSLA; but the microadjust isn't so usefull that I would install the CSLA if I didn't need the extra sturdyness. (It's not like the precision of a rack and pinion adjust as on a stationary saw, more like the microadjust on the edgeguide for the routers)

I want to add a paragraph about what else I like about the system with the V-groove, but I'm way too tired and it's way past my bedtime.

I don't hate the rip fence, but it does have its flaws in my opinion. One knob to lock it in front and back, that's the theory, but when I do that, mine isn't straight. I always have to make sure both the front and back are aligned properly. When I tighten the knob, I can see the fence move slightly under the pressure. Maybe my fence has developed a flaw over time others don't have. It has been used by a contractor in its previous life.

I found the micro adjust totally unnecessary and interfere with smooth operation of the fence so I removed it completely.

I always go for the standard fence if I can because it works great for me, but when I really need the rip fence I use it without hesitation. Just remember to align it thoroughly and off I go.