@Kev - that is a nice bit-o-kit.

In any case the Presario is portable, and the thread's theme is portable.
But with the expense one is a fair ways to wards the Hammer/Felder.

Seems like my message got all scrambled up (cough *moderated* cough?)

Holmz: you mean the Erika is OZ$6000 and not OZ$600?

I wrote: As a part of a system I think the CS70 is the best of the lot. Some fences and accessories that carry over.
Mafell offers extensive and expensive accessory options for the Erika as well to add routers and such.
They make the CS70 look like a bargain  .

This is the one we run in the workshop:
http://www.format-4usa.com/us-us/products/table-saws/sliding-table-panel-saw-kappa-400-x-motion.html

I honestly think it is AWESOME!!! 

That's what's waiting for you in woodworker heaven doubt I'll be going there

Kev: we ironically call the workshop "the Paradise". 

Holmz: phew! That is a bit rich isn't it!? Makes the practical cost vs value of running an Erika setup in OZ really hard to stomach.

Holmz: once you upgrade you are left with some expensive "left overs" so keep that wallet in your pocket.

I can't remember when I last used the CS50 - five or six months ago for some really small trim ripping. Still, a job/project might surface when it will be just the right on site machine. I would hate to sell it and it doesn't take up much space with all the add ons neatly folded up.

Hello,
The RPM of the CS 70 is between 2000 and 4200 RPM
The average recommanded cutting speed for wood is between 40 (hard wood) and 100 m/s (soft wood)
With the blade of 225MM, and 4200 RPM, the speed is around 50 meter per second... (50x60)/(3,14x0,225) = 4246 RPM
Is the CS 70 speed enough ? do you always use the maximum speed ?
Thanks

I always use it full speed, seems fine with all wood. I am not a precision woodworker with high demands though.

100 m/s seems like a very high speed, I don't think it's necessary. If your calculation is correct, then a saw like the CS70 would need to go with a good 8500 RPM? With that speed, I'm afraid it would take off.

I only dial the speed down on the CS70 for cutting aluminum or plastics with the non-ferro blade. (but sometimes I forget to turn it back up immediately)

When ripping, I usually keep the feedrate fairly low, to get better dustcollection, so I find the cutting speed fast enough.

sebcien: the standard blade will generally cause a little more burning on high speed as you can't have the same feed rate as either the panther blade or when using a lower speed setting. On the occasion where I needed a cleaner "burn free" rip and the standard blade I did rip it twice, one rip a little oversize with a mm to spare and the last one at the correct width and in this case the amount of wood to break free of the blade is minimal so I could push the oak through at a faster rate with no burning.

AJ Cruise: I had both the CS50 and CS70 for a longer period. The CS70 was acting as a semi portable rig and the CS50 did some interior trim work on site. Both had most of the add ons.

In retrospect I did like the power and capacity of the CS70 compared to the CS50 but the CS50 does really well within its specifications so I am quite happy using the little brother.

Much as I like the CS70 it is a saw that is neither here nor there for me at the moment. It has nowhere near the precision or processing power, capacity and repeatability of the shop saw and it hasn't the portability of the CS50.
Sure, the CS50 is awkward with sheet goods but I have several track saws so the CS50 is a great pairing to any plunge/track saw for on site work. I have done some flooring and lots of trimming with the CS50.   Since I reckon I would bring a track saw to any on site job I am actually better off with the CS50 and a track saw.

I sold the CS70 with some regrets though, I did some really nice builds with it over the years.

Alan: for ripping/trimming down framing/studs the CS70 is a much better machine, that is for sure. Also if you are often working with hardwood or thicker sheetgoods. But that is a given considering the weight and power difference.

Also the CS70 has a motor air intake filter which I am pretty sure the CS50 does not have so for the more particle laden job sites the CS70 has the added advantage of being more protected for wear.

On a couple of sites over the years where there has been a CS70 set up it has always been very handy. Manageable with sheet goods and works well for ripping. I have of course been glad I wasn't the one who had to haul it to the site though. Only on one site did the CS70 have any add ons. On the other occasions it was just a bare bones CS70 with the parallell fence which is how most tradesmen seem to work the CS70 over here.

The CS70 is a more complete saw than the CS50 but for me the weight penalty was too much and the CS50 has proved itself to be a versatile lightweight workhorse. Even so I don't really bring the add ons with me on jobs unless I have a very specific need and can't solve it with other tools.

Hello,
I've had 3 CS70 table saw.
I have to say, as much as I "love" Festool tools, the CS70 is not a very precise table.
First, the motor/blade is mounted on a plastic mount with 3 points that slides on steel rails. the whole assembly is not rigid and worse it pivot slightly when cutting.
The blade is usually not parallel to the table (I suggest everyone with a CS 70 to take two squares and verify the squareness of the borders of the table vs the blade...)
Adjustments to the fence has to be made (I had the LA fence) to be parallel to the blade, but then it's not square to the table.
So, when you use the sliding table or the mobile fence attached to another side of the table, it's not 90°.
All in all, I took time to try fix this, bought two other second hand CS70 that where a little better, but at the end .. I bought a Dewalt DWE7492 and I'm very happy.
It take less space, cost 1/2 the price, do not need expensive extension tables and can be adjusted to make perfect cuts.
I'm from Belgium, where CS 70 is more easily available than in US (I think so ?) and in the US, where you have other tables that are very good like the sawstop... I think I would not buy a CS70.

the CS70, with the extension tables takes a lot of space and removing them takes times... so t the end, it's always "expanded".
That's one big point for the dewalt, more cut width available than the CS 70 with the extension table and down to a small table in 5 seconds.
CS70 dust collection is ok, like almost all festools tools
CS70 sliding table is ok, but in my opinion, more to cross cut laminated parquet than large stocks

@sebcbien

Very nce review. I have found similar issues with the TS 75 module i the CMS. I have been tempted to sell it along with TS 75 as I have a TS 55 that I use for well just about everything I do. I have been looking at getting a old Makita table saw, the old green one 2308 (I think) The old ones were work horses and very good on site.

Still kicking it around. I really dont know what or how much to sell the module with side extension and fence for.

 

Hi Alex, we are neighbours 
Maybe you have luck with yours... or I have bad luck with my second hands buy's ... I had 3 CS70, I've tested like 3 others (second hand), and none where perfectly square.. the sellers where surprised...

The problem is that, if the blade is not square to the table, then you cannot adjust it, there is no way to correct the alignment, not a single screw....
As for "play", indeed, there was no play in mine too, I should have used the word "flexible"; With just one finger I was able to move the blade when pushing laterally at the back of the blade, it's way more flexible than many other tables I've tested, like Mafel erika, robland, and the dewalt I bought. When pushing "too hard" MDF stock for example, and with no cover on the blade I could clearly see that the blade was under cutting because I received more dust in my face... hence the flexibility.

Of course the LA 70 fence can be adjusted to be parallel to the blade and my cuts where straight.

Can you test yours with two squares against the left edge of the table? I usually had at least 1mm gap trough the length of the blade. The rear of the blade was under-cutting the wood and slightly pushing away the stock from the fence. on all my CS 70 .. I even tought at a moment that it was intentional to no pinch the stock to the fence and avoid kick back..

I do not say that all CS 70 are like mine, your can be perfectly square, I do just encourage buyers to take their squares with them when buying a CS 70. It's a pitty that I do not had taken pictures, and now they are gone.

Now that I 'm writing I also remember that the surface of the table was not flat near the right of the blade, and when cutting narrow pieces the cut was not 90° vertically because of that.

As positive I have to say that the splinterguard is effective if you do not want to change the blade from rough cut to finish cut. easier to change that than to change the blade. The motor was powerfull and the speed adjust can be a selling point.

I really do like Festool tools, I have almost all my tools in Festool and they perform great and way better than other brands..

Here is one small video where I explained how to "joint" on my CS 70 (my way  )
It's in french, but you can select English closed captions