sorry I'm going to suggest the Makita oil impulse impact driver

That "CXS 12" in the catalog is actually the original CXS with the 10.8V battery and not the yet to be released CSX 12.

Oh man. Does that mean Canada may not even see the new CXS 18 or CXS 12 this year ?!

Oh man. Does that mean Canada may not even see the new CXS 18 or CXS 12 this year ?!

I'd make a bet that when the CXS 18 is released in the States, it will also be offered in Canada...now when that will happen is anyone's guess. I'm pulling for the new CXS 12 with the higher 1600 RPM drill speed.

Oh and  to the FOG. 

@RHymc4qH6sg7  For what you have described,  I would pursue the following as time permits.
1- CXS18 when released
2- TID 18
3- TPC 18, if you feel the need.

Thanks for this recommendation, and funnily enough just before I saw your post I was actually just thinking about the same thing.
The TPC 18/4 Hammer Drill spec wise looks to be a slightly superior T18+3. I realize the TPC is marketed as a Hammer drill but I've seen that you can switch the hammer feature on/off.

You can basically use it as a 4 gear quadrive regular drill too. Overall the TPC looks the perfect in-between drill (CXS 18 > TPC 18/4 > TID). Added benefit of working on the Fastfix chuck system too. When the CXS 18 doesn't cut it you can bring out the TPC 18/4 in drill mode, and when you need that super rarely needed max torque you can jump to the TID18.

The TPC then has that added bonus of being able to jump into hammer mode if you need to do some quick brick/concrete holes for mounting a tv in a condo or something 

T18+3, TPC18 and TID18 are completely different drills for different tasks. I have all three, in addition to CXS and C18.

T18+3 is the best all around drill if you are not driving huge screws and drilling big holes. Think shop use.

TPC is more of a heavy duty drill, which also drills in concrete and masonry. It works great for drilling bigger holes and possibly driving huge screws. For everyday medium duty use and screws under 4”, I wouldn’t use this one, it’s heavy and bulky.

TID is an impact driver, it would also work for drilling pocket holes. I don’t generally like impact drivers and prefer my Milwaukee M12 Surge. Other than ergonomics, there is nothing special about this drill. Ideal use would be driving big screws.

TPC/TID kit would be the best option if you ask me. For $650 it’s actually a good value. The T18+3 kit is only $100 less.

T18+3, TPC18 and TID18 are completely different drills for different tasks. I have all three, in addition to CXS and C18.

T18+3 is the best all around drill if you are not driving huge screws and drilling big holes. Think shop use.

TPC is more of a heavy duty drill, which also drills in concrete and masonry. It works great for drilling bigger holes and possibly driving huge screws. For everyday medium duty use and screws under 4”, I wouldn’t use this one, it’s heavy and bulky.

TID is an impact driver, it would also work for drilling pocket holes. I don’t generally like impact drivers and prefer my Milwaukee M12 Surge. Other than ergonomics, there is nothing special about this drill. Ideal use would be driving big screws.

Nice. Thanks for clean explanation on their differences. Fair to say that the TPC (in drill mode) and T18+3 can handle mostly all the same jobs. The downside to the TPC being that it's just so much bulkier and clunkier?

I'm curious. You mentioned you own a CXS too. What kind of shop use jobs would you reach for the T18+3 instead of the CXS?

TPC/TID kit would be the best option if you ask me. For $650 it’s actually a good value. The T18+3 kit is only $100 less.

Yeah. This kit is what I'm leaning toward now plus the new CXS18 once it's released here in Canada.

The TPC then has that added bonus of being able to jump into hammer mode if you need to do some quick brick/concrete holes for mounting a tv in a condo or something 

Structural concrete is something else than brick.

I stopped using percussion drills like the TPC for concrete ages ago. Rotary hammer drill is so much easier for that. With the rotary hammer you can drill 15 holes in the same time and with less drillbit wear as 1 hole with a percussion drill. Not to mention the sound is horrible with percussion drills.

In the USA / Canada the frequency you encounter concrete might be different. Lots of regular row houses here have concrete walls.

I really don’t use the CXS much. It’s smooth, but underpowered, pretty long and uses a specific battery. Most of the time I just use my 12v Bosch Flexiclick.

For hole saws with 7/16 arbor, you will need T18 or TPC18

Before I got the TPC, I was using the C18 at work for drilling holes (I’m a plumber). It got the job done, but it’s slow and lacks power in that application. The TPC has 4 speeds, and it’s twice as quick. Also more torque and anti kickback (And that’s not a gimmick) One of my employees had a swollen hand for 2 weeks after his M18 drill kicked back and hit his hand.

I really don’t use the CXS much. It’s smooth, but underpowered, pretty long and uses a specific battery. Most of the time I just use my 12v Bosch Flexiclick.

For hole saws with 7/16 arbor, you will need T18 or TPC18

Before I got the TPC, I was using the C18 at work for drilling holes (I’m a plumber). It got the job done, but it’s slow and lacks power in that application. The TPC has 4 speeds, and it’s twice as quick. Also more torque and anti kickback (And that’s not a gimmick) One of my employees had a swollen hand for 2 weeks after his M18 drill kicked back and hit his hand.

For the Bosch Powerchange holesaws you don't have to use the 11mm adapter. You can also get an 8mm one that fits their 12V drill.

I use my GSR 12v all the time for (76mm) holes in glass fibre, drywall, 90 year old plywood, etc. etc.

Below is with the 76mm holesaw for adding some outlets in a hollow wall.


Same adapter fits their whole range of holesaws. If I'm not mistaken it goes up to 210mm. My personal collection tops out at 152mm. Although for that diameter I would prefer the 18V with kickback control. I think I made the 76mm hole in the pictured glassfibre reinforced wall with the clutch and slow feed. You can still see the cutout on the floor. And also that I apparently cut 1/2mm off the mark. But that might have been on purpose to make it align even more perfect with the adjacent hole.

Another contrarian view here.  I have the cxs12 and the big brother c12.  I like both but the splendor of the Festool system is the dust collection and many tools are set up to use that capability.  The drills are just drills, nothing special.  The c12 does take advantage of the battery system but at a premium.  I would check out other vendors to see what is in their lineup.

What battery system of the C12? There is the C12... what else uses that battery? Almost nothing. Sure, plenty of things are compatible, but they run with very poor performance on the 12V (10.8V) battery.

What battery system of the C12? There is the C12... what else uses that battery? Almost nothing. Sure, plenty of things are compatible, but they run with very poor performance on the 12V (10.8V) battery.

The C12 (Li version) uses the "big" style 12V batteries.

Fun fact:
Those 12V 3-cell packs are 100 g lighter than the standard 3.1 18V packs AND work with both the DRC 18/4 *and* the PSC/PSBC 420. Especially with the PSC these are a boon - that tool screams for light batteries ... With the DRC they lower the top speed, so not too practical.

I hope the new 2.5 packs - while shorter per videos - will be compatible with the "old" 1.5Ah packs from my C12 Li per above.

Quote from: Coen on May 10, 2023, 01:41 PM

What battery system of the C12? There is the C12... what else uses that battery? Almost nothing. Sure, plenty of things are compatible, but they run with very poor performance on the 12V (10.8V) battery.

The C12 (Li version) uses the "big" style 12V batteries.

Fun fact:
Those 12V 3-cell packs are 100 g lighter than the standard 3.1 18V packs AND work with both the DRC 18/4 *and* the PSC/PSBC 420. Especially with the PSC these are a boon - that tool screams for light batteries ... With the DRC they lower the top speed, so not too practical.

I hope the new 2.5 packs - while shorter per videos - will be compatible with the "old" 1.5Ah packs from my C12 Li per above.

Yes. I use the 3.1 18v packs with the PDC 18/4. It drops the weight significantly. This is dropped even further if you use the Centrotec drill bits rather than the chuck. I have 2 x 3.1 packs, and this is plenty for workshop use.

Nevertheless, the C12 is the referred choice for small holes and screws.

Regards from Perth

Derek

You sound a lot like me, in terms of projects.

I have the CXS, TXS, and C18. The only one I can’t live without is the CXS.

The C18 is also very good, I use it primarily for drilling holes. I like the C series for the handle shape. Makes it easier for me to drill straight.

The TXS I got on a whim because I loved the CXS so much. I don’t use it that often, but it’s a fine drill too.

For the heavier duty stuff I use the Milwaukee Fuel Surge line, as I’m pretty locked into that battery platform. If I had to start all over again, I would go for Makita, particularly that oil impulse driver that @usernumber1 mentioned.

Anyway, I would start with the CXS and save your money for other Festools that aren’t drills. Remember you will need to buy all the centrotec bits, your standard hex drill bits won’t be compatible. And there is no socket bit available (unless this has changed for 2023?), so you’re probably going to need a non-centrotec driver anyway for things like deck work (ie driving endless Simpson strong tie screws into joists). There is a socket converter available (I have it somewhere), but I find it easier to just reach for the Milwaukee whenever I need to drive a bunch of hex head fasteners.