Author Topic: 240 volt dust extractor with a 110volt port - does it exist (Read 3344 times)

Pbellamy · « **on:** September 01, 2023, 01:43 PM »

I’m US based and have quite a tool collection, but I’m moving to the UK. Is there a 240bolt dust extractor that could run my 110volt tools?

I was thinking it would be amazing to not have to sell off my tools just to rebuy them in the UK and less hassle than running a separate 110volt workshop in the UK.

I can do without the whole ‘sell your tools’ replies, just asking if there is an option for this circumstance.

timwors · « **Reply #1 on:** September 01, 2023, 03:44 PM »

I’ve not seen such a device (I am UK based). Judging by how much a high-powered step down transformer costs (and how heavy it is) I would imagine it would result in a very costly and bulky dust extractor.

In the UK you can get 240V to 110V transformers with one or two US outlets on them, with varying power capacities, e.g. at TLC Direct (link) but they can get quite expensive.

dalep · « **Reply #2 on:** September 02, 2023, 08:25 PM »

No, just get a 110 transformer here any buy a 110 dust extractor

Yardbird · « **Reply #3 on:** September 02, 2023, 11:01 PM »

In theory, 240 is just two legs of 120 and a ground. So if he could hook up to just one of the 120 legs and the ground, he should be able to run 120. I am not an electrician, just using common sense. If your plug has two legs going to it now, and if you disconnected one leg, then you have 120.

I do not know how this would affect electronics. I still remember car when light dimmer switches on the floor, and the phone was on the wall. So no, I do not try to keep up with the latests Apps. I just found out last month that I could not paint with oil paints around my new water heater I had just installed. Had to order a new vapor sensor element.

alltracman78 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 03, 2023, 04:33 AM »

Quote from: Yardbird on September 02, 2023, 11:01 PM

In theory, 240 is just two legs of 120 and a ground. So if he could hook up to just one of the 120 legs and the ground, he should be able to run 120. I am not an electrician, just using common sense. If your plug has two legs going to it now, and if you disconnected one leg, then you have 120.

I do not know how this would affect electronics. I still remember car when light dimmer switches on the floor, and the phone was on the wall. So no, I do not try to keep up with the latests Apps. I just found out last month that I could not paint with oil paints around my new water heater I had just installed. Had to order a new vapor sensor element.

No way man. On multiple levels.
Over here (in the US) it (kind of) works that way because we normally use 120. We get 240 by combining 2 120 volt circuits. If you take 2 120 volt wires that are out of phase (split phase) they can take turns being the hot and neutral wires so you don't need a dedicated neutral.
Your ground wire (bare copper or green) is only a safety and shouldn't be carrying current. It's designed to quickly overheat the circuit breaker (or fuse) if there's a short.
It would technically work because the neutral and ground go to the same place. But it would be a massive safety hazard because it isn't normally considered to be carrying current so it's not "safetied" the same. If you have metal boxes they're tied to the ground for example and would be live any time the circuit was in use. It also would trip any AFI/GFI circuits.
To get 120 out of 240 over here you need to have a neutral also (that's where the 4 wire/4 hole receptacle 240 volt circuit comes in).

In the UK their 240 volts is single phase. 1 hot 240 volt wire, 1 neutral wire. You can't split them up.

AstroKeith · « **Reply #5 on:** September 03, 2023, 05:29 AM »

Quote from: Yardbird on September 02, 2023, 11:01 PM

In theory, 240 is just two legs of 120 and a ground. So if he could hook up to just one of the 120 legs and the ground, he should be able to run 120. I am not an electrician, just using common sense. If your plug has two legs going to it now, and if you disconnected one leg, then you have 120.

I do not know how this would affect electronics. I still remember car when light dimmer switches on the floor, and the phone was on the wall. So no, I do not try to keep up with the latests Apps. I just found out last month that I could not paint with oil paints around my new water heater I had just installed. Had to order a new vapor sensor element.

No! on some many levels.
As has been said, it's not safe. Plus it won't work...
In the UK our 240V live is 240 volt with respect to both Earth and Natural.
It is now mandatory (and wise) to have RCCDs (GFIs in the US) and this would trip immediately.

Actually our 240V is just one leg of three phase 480V, which is how it is usually distributed to the local transformer.

Coen · « **Reply #6 on:** September 03, 2023, 07:58 AM »

Quote from: AstroKeith on September 03, 2023, 05:29 AM

[...]
Actually our 240V is just one leg of three phase 480V, which is how it is usually distributed to the local transformer.

Is it? sqrt(3)*230 = 400V, not 480
240V might be between neutral and one phase of split-fase (180 degrees) 480, not not from three-phase (120 degrees)

In some parts of Europe, mainly some parts of Belgium that I know off, they use two phases of 133V (phase-ground) to get to sqrt(3)*133=230V

Or historically 127V, getting to 220V when connected in between. These systems might or might not be provided with a neutral. From the past, 127V was the actual used voltage. In some parts they replaced the transformers to get 230, in some parts they connected in between phases. The former had to be accompanied by everyone adjusting all their electric devices, the latter could be done house by house.

Note that in Europe there usually are a lot more customers per transformer. They are on street-level with the medium voltage grid all sub-surface. The low voltage cabling is again sub-surface. Older transformer stations in beautiful brick 'houses', newer compacter ones in concrete 'bunkers'. The USA-common pole-mounted transformer is the odd thing to find here.
But across Europe there are large differences. If you cross the border from the Netherlands to Germany the first thing you might notice is the presence of above-ground low-voltage wiring.

The Netherlands never had it's medium voltage grid above ground, Belgium did have that. You can find many transformer stations there with a small tower, that served as entrance point for the pole-mounted medium voltage grid.

Yardbird · « **Reply #7 on:** September 03, 2023, 08:57 AM »

Quote from: Yardbird on September 02, 2023, 11:01 PM

In theory, 240 is just two legs of 120 and a ground.

I stand corrected. Forget everything I said. I was thinking on my side of the pond, and forgot how different both sides are in so many things. Do you have 3-phase readily available to residential and farm? That would definitely be a plus. Anyway, apologize for sticking my nose into something I did not fully understand.

Coen · « **Reply #8 on:** September 03, 2023, 11:04 AM »

Quote from: Yardbird on September 03, 2023, 08:57 AM

Quote from: Yardbird on September 02, 2023, 11:01 PM
In theory, 240 is just two legs of 120 and a ground.
I stand corrected. Forget everything I said. I was thinking on my side of the pond, and forgot how different both sides are in so many things. Do you have 3-phase readily available to residential and farm? That would definitely be a plus. Anyway, apologize for sticking my nose into something I did not fully understand.

Also differs per country. In NL most houses, even if they have a single phase connection, the cable to the home is already 3-phase and when you pay the grid company ~€300 they will replace the meter, add two fuses and a few wires and you have your 3-phase connection. New builds 3x25A by default (*).. Common mains connection here is single phase 35A (fuse) or 40A (MCB). Three phase 25A (fuse if old / upgraded, MCB if new / replaced) is the same fixed price per year. Older single-phase 25A connections usually upgraded to 35A for free.
In the UK they have a history of electric resistive heating which we don't have in NL; their connections are often bigger, 100A(+) single phase. As far is I know getting a 3-phase home connection in the UK requires usually the cable to the home to be upgraded. From what I can find for prices in the UK to get 3-phase it starts out at 6-7 times more expensive than in NL.

AstroKeith · « **Reply #9 on:** September 03, 2023, 11:40 AM »

Quote from: Coen on September 03, 2023, 11:04 AM

Quote from: Yardbird on September 03, 2023, 08:57 AM
Quote from: Yardbird on September 02, 2023, 11:01 PM
In theory, 240 is just two legs of 120 and a ground.
I stand corrected. Forget everything I said. I was thinking on my side of the pond, and forgot how different both sides are in so many things. Do you have 3-phase readily available to residential and farm? That would definitely be a plus. Anyway, apologize for sticking my nose into something I did not fully understand.

Also differs per country. In NL most houses, even if they have a single phase connection, the cable to the home is already 3-phase and when you pay the grid company ~€300 they will replace the meter, add two fuses and a few wires and you have your 3-phase connection. New builds 3x25A by default (*).. Common mains connection here is single phase 35A (fuse) or 40A (MCB). Three phase 25A (fuse if old / upgraded, MCB if new / replaced) is the same fixed price per year. Older single-phase 25A connections usually upgraded to 35A for free.
In the UK they have a history of electric resistive heating which we don't have in NL; their connections are often bigger, 100A(+) single phase. As far is I know getting a 3-phase home connection in the UK requires usually the cable to the home to be upgraded. From what I can find for prices in the UK to get 3-phase it starts out at 6-7 times more expensive than in NL.

You're right, its not 480Vac, in theory 400 but for some reason its 415. My mind was locked into factors of two!
80A is the typical UK domestic feed at 230V and I've never seen anything more than single phase bought in from the street.

I once got an old workshop lathe for free, which was 3 phase. The cost of bringing in 3 phase was more than a new lathe. I changed the motor to single phase.

woodbutcherbower · « **Reply #10 on:** September 03, 2023, 11:42 AM »

Quote from: Coen on September 03, 2023, 11:04 AM

As far is I know getting a 3-phase home connection in the UK requires usually the cable to the home to be upgraded.

Correct. Last year, I installed a kitchen in the home of a lady who was a commercial cake baker (for weddings etc.) - she had a wall of 10 x Neff 5kW ovens installed. The supply cable upgrade from the nearest substation (less than 100m away) cost her an additional £12k.

Coen · « **Reply #11 on:** September 03, 2023, 01:13 PM »

Quote from: woodbutcherbower on September 03, 2023, 11:42 AM

Quote from: Coen on September 03, 2023, 11:04 AM

As far is I know getting a 3-phase home connection in the UK requires usually the cable to the home to be upgraded.

Correct. Last year, I installed a kitchen in the home of a lady who was a commercial cake baker (for weddings etc.) - she had a wall of 10 x Neff 5kW ovens installed. The supply cable upgrade from the nearest substation (less than 100m away) cost her an additional £12k.

Huuh, so not even the cable in the street is three-phase? That's some inefficiency right there.

Even if homes are connected single-phase here the cable to the homes is often already three phase, and even if it isn't, the cable in the street is, connecting every third home to the same phase. New cable to the street is usually €1200

mino · « **Reply #12 on:** September 03, 2023, 03:41 PM »

Quote from: Coen on September 03, 2023, 01:13 PM

Huuh, so not even the cable in the street is three-phase? That's some inefficiency right there.

Even if homes are connected single-phase here the cable to the homes is often already three phase, and even if it isn't, the cable in the street is, connecting every third home to the same phase. New cable to the street is usually €1200

Same in here (CZ). I guess it has to do with the original electrification in Central Europe going 3-phase AC from the get go. There were pretty much no signifficant residential DC installs that I know of. Pretty much "every garage" has 3-phase 380/400V wiring here, if not the meter.

The only place I have seen 1P is in appartment blocks from the 30s-80s period. There the building was still 3P/400 but flats are distributed among the phases. That is only becase the most basic <1x25 A breaker and meter were aplenty for the whole flats. With no high-power equipment - central heating, gas stove and gas (or central) water heating there was just nothing that can overload it present in those flats. Not until the electric stoves became popular in the 90s. At which point it became a question of running a 5-meter cable to the 3-phase breakout box on the hallway. That action is still up for us in our old flat when we redo the kitchen.

The thing is that 3-phase 400V is way more efficient even at the base 16A power level (corresponding to the base level 3x2.5mm² Cu or 3x4mm² Al) as it gives one 19.2 kW from just 5 wires. So 3.8kW/wire. An equivalent 230V cable would be 3x4mm² and allow for only 5.7kW.

With 5x2.5 mm² being the same cost as 3x4 mm² wiring but at way more power, you would not find any single-phase witing in CZ beyong 1x25A. It was just not done as is not economical. Even the 1x25 one find only as local sub-wiring in multi-appartment setups where the original reason was to save on breakers and meters cost.

woodbutcherbower · « **Reply #13 on:** September 03, 2023, 05:08 PM »

Quote from: Coen on September 03, 2023, 01:13 PM

Even if homes are connected single-phase here the cable to the homes is often already three phase, and even if it isn't, the cable in the street is, connecting every third home to the same phase. New cable to the street is usually €1200

Maybe so in The Netherlands (near Germany). But here - our cables are buried at least 2m deep under paving, trees, roads, gardens, driveways, and other stuff. It costs £12k per 100m because the job needs an excavator, two skilled electricians, plus three groundworkers for three days. Plus a world of consents, permissions, compensations and paperwork. Don't even think about how deep our underground water and natural gas pipes are .......

Pbellamy · « **Reply #14 on:** September 07, 2023, 10:52 PM »

This has gone down a rabbit hole. Anyone have a view on the original question?

timwors · « **Reply #15 on:** September 08, 2023, 06:12 AM »

With reference to my previous answer, your best bet would be to plug in a 110V transformer to the 240V outlet on the dust extractor, and plug your 110V tools into that. There are lots of 240V-110V transformer options available in the UK, some of which have US sockets on them.

alltracman78 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 08, 2023, 08:05 AM »

Assuming he already has a dust collector, it would be easier (and cheaper) to just get the transformer and plug the collector into that.

nvalinski · « **Reply #17 on:** September 08, 2023, 09:35 AM »

I may be entirely incorrect/suggesting something unsafe, but is it possible to just get a new plug-it lead in the UK and use your existing tools with a new cord? Otherwise, just a matter of selling your current extractor in the US and buying a new one in the UK to upgrade that to 240V. I believe the tools are all rated for 50/60 Hz with 120-240V, but I don't know how interchangeable that actually is or if there are other considerations/safety features build in the UK/Euro versions of the tools that wouldn't let that work.

squall_line · « **Reply #18 on:** September 08, 2023, 10:13 AM »

Quote from: nvalinski on September 08, 2023, 09:35 AM

I believe the tools are all rated for 50/60 Hz with 120-240V.

This is a mistaken belief.

There may be a lot of tools rated for 50/60 Hz, but not for 120/240V.

Coen · « **Reply #19 on:** September 08, 2023, 07:11 PM »

Quote from: nvalinski on September 08, 2023, 09:35 AM

I may be entirely incorrect/suggesting something unsafe, but is it possible to just get a new plug-it lead in the UK and use your existing tools with a new cord? Otherwise, just a matter of selling your current extractor in the US and buying a new one in the UK to upgrade that to 240V. I believe the tools are all rated for 50/60 Hz with 120-240V, but I don't know how interchangeable that actually is or if there are other considerations/safety features build in the UK/Euro versions of the tools that wouldn't let that work.

Your first stated belief is just wrong. All the stated unknowns then become irrelevant.

kitfit1 · « **Reply #20 on:** September 10, 2023, 04:59 AM »

Quote from: Pbellamy on September 01, 2023, 01:43 PM

I’m US based and have quite a tool collection, but I’m moving to the UK. Is there a 240bolt dust extractor that could run my 110volt tools?

I was thinking it would be amazing to not have to sell off my tools just to rebuy them in the UK and less hassle than running a separate 110volt workshop in the UK.

I can do without the whole ‘sell your tools’ replies, just asking if there is an option for this circumstance.

All domestic mains outlets in the UK are 230v to allow the use of 220v appliances.
The ONLY way you can re-use your 110v tools in the UK is purchase a site transformer:

Along with these 110v plugs and fit a plug to each of your 110v tools. You will need to sell your 110v vac though and buy a 110v Vac in the UK, UK 110v Vacs use 110v plugs and sockets:

You might also need one of these:

All the above are in standard use all over the UK on construction sites, that's the law,
What could be problematic is any 110v battery chargers you have, it might be a good idea to sell them in the USA and buy 230v chargers when you get to the UK.

mino · « **Reply #21 on:** September 10, 2023, 05:58 AM »

As per bove.

Sell all the "big" tools and get 230V versions of them once in UK. Ideal moment for an upgrade as well. UK building "site" tools are 110V but I presume you are not a building site "animal" ..

Keep the "small/loved/etc." tools and get a site transformer to run them. Still a good idea to replace the plugs with UK ones. Any electrician can do that for you.

Once you are in the UK with the US 110V tools in your baggage, it would be much harder to offload them.

Coen · « **Reply #22 on:** September 10, 2023, 06:32 AM »

Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 05:58 AM

[...] replace the plugs with UK ones. Any electrician can do that for you.
[...]

Why pay someone else to do something that basic?

kitfit1 · « **Reply #23 on:** September 10, 2023, 07:13 AM »

Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 05:58 AM

As per bove.

Sell all the "big" tools and get 230V versions of them once in UK. Ideal moment for an upgrade as well. UK building "site" tools are 110V but I presume you are not a building site "animal" ..

Keep the "small/loved/etc." tools and get a site transformer to run them. Still a good idea to replace the plugs with UK ones. Any electrician can do that for you.

Once you are in the UK with the US 110V tools in your baggage, it would be much harder to offload them.

If the OP is emigrating from the USA to the UK, the chances are all his belongings (including power tools) will be coming over in a container, so no need to get rid of any big tools (only the Vac and battery chargers). As the power tools are 110v, they will be no more difficult to sell in the UK than any other 110v power tool. It's not as if there isn't a huge market for them in the UK, there are hundreds of thousands of construction workers in the UK all using 110v power tools. The second hand market is massive, just look on Ebay.

mino · « **Reply #24 on:** September 10, 2023, 07:17 AM »

Quote from: Coen on September 10, 2023, 06:32 AM

Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 05:58 AM
[...] replace the plugs with UK ones. Any electrician can do that for you.
[...]

Why pay someone else to do something that basic?

Because giving an advice to an illegal activity is ... not the best aproach. AFAIK it is illegal in the UK to "mess" with above-safe voltage wiring. Unless one is a qualified electrician. This is the same here in CZ, not sure about NL though.

That many do so is for another discussion ...

One can always flaunt the law-mandated safety. But should always be on one's own volition.
Advising such to someone whose skills one has no knowledge of is not "helping" on my side of the roundtable of morality. *)

*) Just yesterday I was at friend's cottage which had "new wiring done" by "local exlectrician. Guess what. That "local electrician" who is no electircian to begin told the friend he: "Required "no (separate) grounding of the property if GFCI device is employed (and the property is connected to the grid as that will provide the grounding suffient for a GFCI to work reliably)".

Where is the problem - besides that advise breaching all kinds of building codes here? Well, the grey text was not spoken but implied in the "electrician's" statement. Guess what? Friends place is not grid-connected, never was, but had no grounding done BASED ON THAT ADVISE. So he had a buncha of GFCI devices, worth $5k easily in total that only created a false pretense of safety ...

That the same "electrician" also setup an extension cord for the same friend which has 3-pole plug and socket for concrete mixer BUT he use a 2-wire cable, leaving the cable "appear" grounded while it was not ...

And no, I am not a pro, so not "money in the game".
But just came from a yesterday visit the friend where the whole story started with him proudly stating how he "saved" on the grounding works by not listening to the "overly protective" qualified electricians I asked him to borrow me a meter and went around his house checking stuff. Needless to say the only reason no one got killed is the wiring was new-enough to not develop any primary faults. The friend did then mention he got a couple "shocks" but that "it was normal" as he was told ...

Long story short, he saved $5k to now need to spend $10k for rewigin half the stuff he just lately put into the walls ... and making brand-new retrofitted grounding install which will set him another $10k instead of the $1k it would have cost when he had earth moving equipment around ..

Sorry for some OT, but possibly above story may bring some humility also to the OP.
In my view, and a strong one at that, if someone (needs to) ask if plugging a 110V device into 230V sockets is "OK" then such a person has no qualifications to rewire things. Not without supervision of a qualified person. Take that as you might.

mino · « **Reply #25 on:** September 10, 2023, 07:26 AM »

Quote from: kitfit1 on September 10, 2023, 07:13 AM

If the OP is emigrating from the USA to the UK, the chances are all his belongings (including power tools) will be coming over in a container, so no need to get rid of any big tools (only the Vac and battery chargers). As the power tools are 110v, they will be no more difficult to sell in the UK than any other 110v power tool. It's not as if there isn't a huge market for them in the UK, there are hundreds of thousands of construction workers in the UK all using 110v power tools. The second hand market is massive, just look on Ebay.

Big tools as in a planer, vac, table saw, etc.

A US-certified tool will, generally, not be contractor-usable in the UK for insurance reasons. Even if it will technically work after a plug change. That puts the price these can sell below what a "UK-native" tool will fetch. So selling in the US, where one has all the contacts, should give a better price/value ratio. IMO. I see this more from a practicality perspective as do not own stakes in Maersk ...

The US "big" tools tend to be current-hamstrung while at 230V they are not so get a bit of "wings" for free. Importing big/high-current 110V devices into the UK makes little sense to me. Unless these are "emotional relationship" tools, that is.

kitfit1 · « **Reply #26 on:** September 10, 2023, 07:40 AM »

Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 07:26 AM

A US-certified tool will, generally, not be contractor-usable in the UK for insurance reasons. Even if it will technically work after a plug change. That puts the price these can sell below what a "UK-native" tool will fetch.

One in the UK, plug changed for a UK 110v plug, PAT tested and certified they will be worth the same as any "UK-native tool" With a PAT test and a Cert they can be used on any UK construction site.

Coen · « **Reply #27 on:** September 10, 2023, 08:02 AM »

Festool prices in the USA are often on a higher level than Festool prices in Europe, so selling in the USA and re-buying in the UK might not even that expensive to begin with.

Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 07:17 AM

Quote from: Coen on September 10, 2023, 06:32 AM
Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 05:58 AM
[...] replace the plugs with UK ones. Any electrician can do that for you.
[...]

Why pay someone else to do something that basic?
Because giving an advice to an illegal activity is ... not the best aproach. AFAIK it is illegal in the UK to "mess" with above-safe voltage wiring. Unless one is a qualified electrician. This is the same here in CZ, not sure about NL though.
[...]

No such rules in NL. In the UK they used to learn in school how to wire plugs, since many appliances were sold without plugs. No idea if they changed since, but seeing that the UK arrests ten times as many people for 'wrong speech' on social media as Russia, they might very well have more stupid rules I don't know about.

Their 230V plugs contain a fuse too.

As for your grounding story; GFCI's work regardless if there is grounding. They work by measuring the difference in current leaving and current returning. If any (above a certain threshold) leaks to ground, be it a grounded chassis or a human touching a live wire, it switches off. The first generation worked by measuring current in the ground wire; that one obviously doesn't work without grounding, but also doesn't switch off if the fault is through a human.

Adding an earth rod is also not $10k. The last one I put in was like $150. Wrong wiring in the wall; well, dumb building standards... expensive fixes, same as UK. Put conduit in the wall instead of cable and you can re-wire everything for next to nothing in time and material.

As for the sh*tty electrician. Well, that's the big problem, isn't it... If you don't know what to do... you can't check their work. If you know what to do... might just as well do it yourself. Except for things that you just can't, but know what it should result in. Like soldering electronics for me... I suck at it because I regularly have a little shaky hands.

I have a property that I rent... whenever the go0ns hired by the landlord do anything, it turns to sh*t. They added a mains-fed smoke alarm and when doing so they messed up the neutral connection in the junction box for an outlet. Their typical response is; "We will stop by between 0900 and 1600 to fix it." Yeah.... don't bother... the problem *cough* fixed itself *cough*.

mino · « **Reply #28 on:** September 10, 2023, 08:10 AM »

Quote from: kitfit1 on September 10, 2023, 07:40 AM

Quote from: mino on September 10, 2023, 07:26 AM
A US-certified tool will, generally, not be contractor-usable in the UK for insurance reasons. Even if it will technically work after a plug change. That puts the price these can sell below what a "UK-native" tool will fetch.

One in the UK, plug changed for a UK 110v plug, PAT tested and certified they will be worth the same as any "UK-native tool" With a PAT test and a Cert they can be used on any UK construction site.

A "plug change" which can be done (technically) at home for 5 pounds/plug is certainly not PAT tested nor certified. Hence anyone buying it for contract work would need to get a certitied person/company do that .. which means you cannot sell it for same as a "certified" tool normally on the market.

That said, I am not sure you can even fast-certify a tool which was never declared as complying with the EU/UK regulations to begin aka has no CE (or equivalent) mark. One can still do it, but at that point becomes "manufacturer" as per EC/UK norms and thus has to provide a declaration of conformity etc. etc. becoming legally liable if it causes an accident etc. Sure, it is possible. But gets Not worth it.^TM very fast. If a tool already has a CE mark (some do), then it can be as "simple" as you describe.

A non-certiied tool can still be very much practical for a hobby user. So it would still sell. But it would be reflected in its price on the market. Excepting any specialist tools which are not available in the UK normally. A friend got a TS 55 R 110V that way for €150 from a contractor moving out from UK post Brexit. That same saw would have fetched € 300+ if 230V. And that was still with CE marks ...

IMO the shipping + re-doing + having to use a transformer (or sell for less) are, IMO, just not worth it. Unless there is some emotional/personal attachment that cannot be simply translated to money.

woodbutcherbower · « **Reply #29 on:** September 10, 2023, 01:43 PM »

If I were the OP, I'd already have lost the will to live.

240 volt dust extractor with a 110volt port - does it exist

Answer = No. It doesn't. That's all the poor guy wanted to know.