I wondered how the parallel guide worked. Thanks for sharing.  Have you used the guide in conjunction with the rails?   

I wondered how the parallel guide worked. Thanks for sharing.  Have you used the guide in conjunction with the rails?   

I have not used the parallel guide in conjuction with the rails as it works so well without that I don't see the need to include the rail in the operation.

Additionally, this was only my 3rd time using the parallel guide.  I find that it works very well and could probably speed up the setup significantly with additional usage. 

Lastly, one of the times I used this setup was to rip several 2" x 4" x 8's in half.  It was a quick process and I believe it was safer and the results were far better than if I had been ripping alone with a table saw... unless maybe I had a nice SawStop with outfeed tables and the whole works.

Thanks.

I forgot I had one of these, thanks for the reminder. Now I have to find it. 

Nick, you probably sold it already....

I wondered how the parallel guide worked. Thanks for sharing.  Have you used the guide in conjunction with the rails?   

You can install these parallel guide upside-down on your saw so the parallel guide will ride on top of your material to the right of the saw.  This may prove useful to stabilize the saw on the guide rail during a bevel cut.  But, I don't see where it makes any sense at all to use this parallel guide with the saw on the guide rail when installed upright, as it will be the placement of the guide rail that will dictate the path of the saw, not the parallel guide -- and used in this way the parallel guide may present a problem as your saw travels down the rail.  

Instead of measuring from the blade out to the parallel guide, why not just measure from the green splinterguard out to the parallel guide?  As long as you're using blades with an identical kerf, shouldn't this be just as accurate and much more convenient? 

That said, I don't have the parallel guide attachment and may be out in left field with this suggestion.   

Instead of measuring from the blade out to the parallel guide, why not just measure from the green splinterguard out to the parallel guide?  As long as you're using blades with an identical kerf, shouldn't this be just as accurate and much more convenient? 

That said, I don't have the parallel guide attachment and may be out in left field with this suggestion.   

Good suggestion - I will try that and report back on it.

Any more suggestions to speed things up or improve process out there; things to try?

Thanks.

Cory, Nice review. Good to "see" you again. Like the FOGtainer in the background. 

Don

Thanks Don, good to hear from you.

The FOGtainer in the background was definitely intentional.  The black & yellow, red, and dark green items were definitely unintentional 

Nice job, Corey.  Besides the FOGtainer, I liked the paneled frames in the background, and your basement, with its high ceiling.

Regards,

John

Thanks Scot, John, and Paul.

I've got some good ideas from others for easier setup of the guide and will post soon if they work out for the better.

Thanks.

I have this attachment for my ts55, I really like the way it stores upright in the systainer without being in the way to get the saw, so, allthough I rarely use it, it is always at hand. (There was a thread about the one for the ts75 being too wide to easily store in the systainer)

For setting it to width, I usually lock the saw in the fastfix "bladechange-mode"

Thank you for the demo.

Does the saw try to "wiggle" much?  It looks like you only have to apply a little pressure to the guide to keep it in position against the wood. 

Would it be possible to pull on the saw base instead of push on the guide to keep it in position?  Just to keep from having to lean over the saw so much.

Quick question from others who have this.  I picked up the attachment for my TS55 today and wonder if mine is defective.  There are black plastic caps on the ends and they stick out slightly, about 1mm from the edge.  What this does is as my cut progresses and trailing edge of the parallel guide is about to hit the workpiece this black plastic hits the edge and stops the saw from moving.  Is this normal or am I using it incorrectly somehow?  I can take a picture if i'm not clear.

I just took a look at mine and the black plastic end caps are flush with the metal bar everywhere, so either file yours down or exchange it for a better one.

Any chance you still got that video available?

The OP has not been active here since March 2017.

Yeah, I have one of those for my TS 55. The inlay already had a space for it, but the thing itself was not included, hehe. Maybe I used it once... it might me my most expensive piece of Festool calculated by $/#used