A bit more info to add. These blade marks are not just surface scratches but very palpable. After many test cuts not much change. I may be taking this back for another saw.

What is your cutting technique? If you try to use it as a chop saw just coming straight down on the material to cut it your going to have some issues. Its not made for that.

You should be clamping the material down prior to cutting pulling the saw all the way fwd, lowering the blade and pushing the blade back to the material.
Once through the material finger off the trigger, allow the blade come to a complete stop then letting the blade go up .

Thanks so much for the responses!
I did put in a call to customer service to discuss the issue. The tech told me to clamp piece and pull the saw head out, then down and into cut. I did a few test cuts while on the phone with them. While it alleviated some of the runout as you can see in the photos there is still an issue. I'll admit I never had a specific technique such as allowing the blade to stop before raising blade. Always had great results. Also used a Chopmaster blade which has a little more heft.
The Festool Blade could be the issue, so I might try another. Dial indicator shows the blade as the slight issue and not the arbor.
I have also mixed up the wood species: Oak, Redwood, Poplar, Mahogany, Cypress, Port Orford Cedar.
The cuts are very precise horizontally and vertically. A straight edge placed on the cut face reveals light at the blade marks. Overall the cuts are beyond the Hitachi which had a little movement along the cut here and there. As a new Kapex owner it is really helpful to know what the benchmark is for this saw and I appreciate the feedback.
I will definitely try the tech line again and seek out another blade.

BTW I had really tried to like the new Makita Cordless SCMS, but the 2 saws I have gone through have major rail alignment issues that leave a curved cut. After a couple of months driving my saw back and forth to Hartville Hardware and lots of time speaking to our regional Makita Tech I decided to do with my first choice, the Kapex.

Thanks for the feedback

It's possible to induce run-out like cuts if you exert side pressure on the handle while making the cut. But, it sounds like you have a bad saw blade. I've had excellent luck over many years with the Festool blade. I get really smooth cuts. Change the blade and be sure your cutting movement is straight through with no side pressure.

I have been cutting some 2" thick walnut with the Kapex. I don't like kick back so I came up with a no kick back technique.

I make a cut about 1/2 way through the board then skooch the board over about the width of the blade and repeat the 1/2 way through cut. I then skooch the wood so that the blade is centered in the kerf. I then cut all the way through. I then do a skim cut on the board's end. No kick back and a glassy smooth cut.

Regarding smooth downward pressure. Yes this saw has a new feel. With the dial indicator against the blade only mild side pressure sends the indicator several thou out. Still getting the feel for it and nothing seems to help the issue so far with my technique.

Anyone have experience with the Forrest blade?

Thanks again for the guidance!

Same here, WWIIs for the tablesaw only. The Kapex's stock blade has exceeded my expectation and is still sharp for all intents and purposes after 5 years of regular use.

Thanks for the blade recommendations.

Spoke again with the Festool support and have no other suggestions for this saw. One interesting point though is that they did recommend the 80 tooth blade for smoother stock but only for max 1x4 stock. I may be a dummy but I have used an 80 tooth chopmaster for as long as I can remember and never had any issues with larger stock.

I have asked a friend with a Kapex to let me do a side by side test and blade switch as well before seeking a replacement.

Photo of factory laser set up

The lasers are not difficult to adjust to dead-nuts accuracy where only the width of the laser lines limits precision.  The Kapex supplemental manual details the process.  I would also do the five cut check on the accuracy of the angle at zero degrees.

I had to adjust the lasers on my Kapex when I got it.   It wasn't very difficult.

Bob

Shouldn't the laser setting be properly set and checked before a new saw leaves the factory? As someone pointed out before who moved his saw between sites all the time, it'd be an excuse to blame all poor laser settings on shipping. I picked up mine from a local vendor, and the laser setting was off as well. I attributed it to perfunctory work at the assembly line.