Author Topic: UJK Parf Guide System - Videos (Read 205369 times)

msc · « **Reply #300 on:** February 14, 2017, 05:40 AM »

Thanks when I get home I will try find my digital caliprts and measure what the hole and parf dog size it

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #301 on:** February 14, 2017, 05:51 AM »

Quote from: msc on February 14, 2017, 05:40 AM

Thanks when I get home I will try find my digital caliprts and measure what the hole and parf dog size it

Excellent.

I have alerted Axminster and if we have narrowed it down to the 20 mm Guide Block of the PGS I will suggest to them that they invite you to return the old one (free of charge) and receive a replacement.

In fairness to Axminster (and this would apply to any business members of the FOG) could we do the rest of this one to one support via PM or email? We can post the outcome once the problem is identified and resolved.

Cheers.

Peter

HarveyWildes · « **Reply #302 on:** February 19, 2017, 09:49 AM »

I'm re-building a benchtop. Started out with a box store maple top from a metal-legged bench. The top was 1.75", but had cupped .25" over the 4-5 years it's been in my shop. Rather than flatten it, I decided to rebuild it. I cut it into strips, squared them up, and added some granadillo strips in between to widen it a bit. After machining, the top is 1.5".

Since this was something of a rebuild experiment, I decided to set it up with MFT style holes using my UJK Parf Guide System. The picture shows the top at the end of day yesterday.

Comments:
* The 3mm drill bit holes drilled in dead on. Pythagoras combined with precision holes in the rule seemed to work out as expected.
* I've had a lot of trouble with forstner bits overheating in stuff this thick. No problems at all with the Parf Guide bit. Brilliant!
* The fit of my parf dogs is pretty much perfect.
* I oiled the bit shaft in the bushing, and it seized after fourteen holes. I was able to knock it out, and now am oiling it about every ten holes.
* Drilling the 3mm holes in the granadillo strip at the back was challenging - had to keep lifting the bit out of the holes to clear wood, and the bit wanted to stick in the bushing. Granadillo is pretty dense.

So far I like what I'm seeing.

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #303 on:** February 19, 2017, 11:35 AM »

Quote from: HarveyWildes on February 19, 2017, 09:49 AM

I'm re-building a benchtop. Started out with a box store maple top from a metal-legged bench. The top was 1.75", but had cupped .25" over the 4-5 years it's been in my shop. Rather than flatten it, I decided to rebuild it. I cut it into strips, squared them up, and added some granadillo strips in between to widen it a bit. After machining, the top is 1.5".

Since this was something of a rebuild experiment, I decided to set it up with MFT style holes using my UJK Parf Guide System. The picture shows the top at the end of day yesterday.

Comments:
* The 3mm drill bit holes drilled in dead on. Pythagoras combined with precision holes in the rule seemed to work out as expected.
* I've had a lot of trouble with forstner bits overheating in stuff this thick. No problems at all with the Parf Guide bit. Brilliant!
* The fit of my parf dogs is pretty much perfect.
* I oiled the bit shaft in the bushing, and it seized after fourteen holes. I was able to knock it out, and now am oiling it about every ten holes.
* Drilling the 3mm holes in the granadillo strip at the back was challenging - had to keep lifting the bit out of the holes to clear wood, and the bit wanted to stick in the bushing. Granadillo is pretty dense.

So far I like what I'm seeing.

Hi Harvey,

Many thanks for the very informative post and the preview of what looks to be a rather nice top.

Once you have created your custom bench top or cutting station you can still make perfect 90 deg and 45 deg cuts even without a track saw. With an ordinary circular saw you can use a straight edge, held against the tall Parf Dogs, and still make perfect cuts.

I have nothing to do with it at all but you and every other PGS owner should be aware that Axminster are running a simple competition which, I think, just requires a picture or two of what you have created with the PGS to be sent in or uploaded.

Could I also ask owners of the PGS to consider putting a review on the Axminster web site on the PGS page as it really does help others to know that there are so many success stories around , like this one from Harvey.

Here is a link to the PGS page:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-parf-guide-system-102278

Cheers.

Peter

Svar · « **Reply #304 on:** February 19, 2017, 12:33 PM »

Quote from: HarveyWildes on February 19, 2017, 09:49 AM

Since this was something of a rebuild experiment, I decided to set it up with MFT style holes using my UJK Parf Guide System.

You will not be able to use those holes for accurate 45 deg. cuts because of seasonal shrinking and swelling of the solid top. 90 deg. should be fine though.

HarveyWildes · « **Reply #305 on:** February 19, 2017, 03:55 PM »

Good point - seasonal shrinking is less a factor in Colorado, but I would still expect a 1/8" expansion/contraction between the seasons for maple this wide - enough to throw off precision.

In general, wood will hardly ever get to more than 6-7% moisture content here once it has dried, and most wood shrinkage occurs between ~15% and 6%.

The main reason I'm drilling the table this way is for clamping flexibility. I'm not sure yet that I will ever make a cut on it.

HarveyWildes · « **Reply #306 on:** February 19, 2017, 04:12 PM »

Quote from: HarveyWildes on February 19, 2017, 09:49 AM

...
Comments:
...
* I oiled the bit shaft in the bushing, and it seized after fourteen holes. I was able to knock it out, and now am oiling it about every ten holes.
...

@Peter Parfitt, is there a recommended speed for the 20mm bit? I've been using the drill trigger for speed control, and I'm sure that I occasionally get onto the high side.

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #307 on:** February 19, 2017, 06:33 PM »

Hi Harvey

The key thing with the 20 mm cutters, and this is true for all Forstner style cutters as well, is to keep the debris clear as they cut. In the higher quality MDF (either CNC grade HDF or the modern Medite) the cut material tends to be more like solid wood in that it cuts in shavings which helps with the clearance process. The cheaper materials, especially low quality MDF, cuts into woolly fluff which clogs the cutter quickly and leads to overheating - with this the clearance has to be done very carefully.

I keep the speed of cut in the medium area (ie not flat out) and I raise the bit twice during each 20 mm hole cut. It is also essential to check that you do not have a "disc" of material stuck on the end of the cutter at the end of any cut. The shape of the cutter has been designed for maximum efficiency in MDF and part of that are the "wings" (or whatever they should be called) that score the outer part of the cut. As these wings break through the underside of a cut a disc of material can be formed which just stays impaled on the end of the cutter. If this is not removed then it acts like a washer and prevents further cutting (ie when you start the next hole).

It does sound as though you may have been going a bit too fast if you are having to re-oil as often as you said. I apply oil to the shaft of the 20 mm cutter each time I insert it into the 20 mm guide block and each time I change from one bush position to the other.

Peter
I hope that this helps.

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #308 on:** February 21, 2017, 03:29 AM »

New Video of a "Speedy" Cutting Board

Hi Everyone,

I have had several trades people ask me about the PGS and so I have made a video demonstrating the creation of a "Speedy" cutting station that can be made in about 15 minutes. The "Speedy" has the same inherent accuracy of a full PGS created top yet can be made on site in next to no time.

Tops like this can be used on trestles or even on the floor. They can be thrown into the back of a van at the end of the day and should last about a year even with a lot of abuse. New ones can be created time and time again using the same PGS.

Here is the video:

Peter

ali · « **Reply #309 on:** February 21, 2017, 04:39 AM »

are the guide rail clips included in the parf guide system or a separate part?

Very good video, has me sold on this. can really see how to use this when outside.

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #310 on:** February 21, 2017, 04:45 AM »

Quote from: ali on February 21, 2017, 04:39 AM

are the guide rail clips included in the parf guide system or a separate part?

Very good video, has me sold on this. can really see how to use this when outside.

Hi Ali,

The guide rail clips are not part of the PGS kit but are available from Axminster at about £8 a pair. I did not design them but am happy to confirm that they do a great job. Here is the link:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-dog-rail-clip-pair-102973

They also sell the Parf Dogs too.

Peter

David Pepke · « **Reply #311 on:** February 21, 2017, 06:00 AM »

Hi Peter Parfitt.
I watched your video on the PGS mobile setup this morning. As usual, brilliant job. We as a community are lucky to have you.

I built a new workbench this weekend and I am contemplating how to incorporate your PGS and your ideas for near CNC perfection.

Anyhow - I had a thought while watching your video - and I admit, I haven't read through this thread, so my question may be rendundant, but:

Have you considered fitting a 20 mm drill bit that will accept a hex bit to drive it - in the style of Blum and Hettich jigs. Maybe even spring loaded. I saw that you simply disconnected the Jacobs chuck on your drill, but I think it would be even easier to just drill with a hex bit and set you drill down. Also, using a drill without the ability to disconnect the chuck seems cumbersome in the current setup.

Here's an image of the type of jig I'm refering to:
https://www.hettich.com/uploads/tx_templavoila/Hettich-2001020000_1511_Drilljig_Scharnier_Anwendung-440-340.jpg

And here's a video of it in use:

Again thanks for your work - my two month old daugther Ronja enjoyed the video too this morning - although she might have nodded off somewhere in the middle.

Cheers,
David

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #312 on:** February 21, 2017, 07:00 AM »

Quote from: David Pepke on February 21, 2017, 06:00 AM

Hi Peter Parfitt.
I watched your video on the PGS mobile setup this morning. As usual, brilliant job. We as a community are lucky to have you.

I built a new workbench this weekend and I am contemplating how to incorporate your PGS and your ideas for near CNC perfection.

Anyhow - I had a thought while watching your video - and I admit, I haven't read through this thread, so my question may be rendundant, but:

Have you considered fitting a 20 mm drill bit that will accept a hex bit to drive it - in the style of Blum and Hettich jigs. Maybe even spring loaded. I saw that you simply disconnected the Jacobs chuck on your drill, but I think it would be even easier to just drill with a hex bit and set you drill down. Also, using a drill without the ability to disconnect the chuck seems cumbersome in the current setup.

Again thanks for your work - my two month old daugther Ronja enjoyed the video too this morning - although she might have nodded off somewhere in the middle.

Cheers,
David

Hi David,

The key thing with the development of the PGS was accuracy which, after 3 years of work, we have achieved. The next objective was to get the price as low as possible without compromising the accuracy in any way at all. I have seen the Blum jigs but we cannot go down that route.

A hex shank cutter is now available as an option which does allow people to disconnect the cutter from the drill easily. There is a stop collar provided with the hex cutter which prevents it from falling through the guide block.

Many thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the new workbench.

I do not blame your very young daughter falling asleep during the video - I suspect there may be a few grown-ups who do the same whenever they see me on the screen.

Peter

eddomak · « **Reply #313 on:** February 21, 2017, 06:55 PM »

Does anybody know where I can get the Parf Guide system for a reasonable price in Australia or posted to Australia? Unfortunately when I get a quote from the UK (for the guides, a pair of short dogs, a pair of long dogs, and some knobs) the postage alone blows out to GBP50 (ie $AUD88).

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #314 on:** February 22, 2017, 01:44 AM »

Quote from: eddomak on February 21, 2017, 06:55 PM

Does anybody know where I can get the Parf Guide system for a reasonable price in Australia or posted to Australia? Unfortunately when I get a quote from the UK (for the guides, a pair of short dogs, a pair of long dogs, and some knobs) the postage alone blows out to GBP50 (ie $AUD88).

I know that Axminster have shipped a number of PGS to Australia for individual clients. There has to be an opportunity for an Australian dealership to take on not only the PGS but also the Veritas Parf Dogs as well.

This is not my part of ship and potential candidates need to talk to Axminster about this.

Peter

eddomak · « **Reply #315 on:** February 23, 2017, 01:43 AM »

Thanks Peter for following up, and I totally understand this is out of your control.

Yes, unfortunately there is no official dealer here for the Parf guides.

Your Parf Dogs are available from Carbatec. It's unfortunate that (probably due to multiple legitimate factors like shipping, taxes, size of market etc) the costs are significantly more in Australia than the rest of the world. As a comparison, without postage costs the short dogs are $AUD15.00 from Axminster, $AUD19.45 from Lee Valley, and $AUD28.00 locally. So in the end it often makes more sense to order from overseas.

David Pepke · « **Reply #316 on:** February 23, 2017, 02:52 AM »

Quote from: Peter Parfitt on February 21, 2017, 07:00 AM

Hi David,

The key thing with the development of the PGS was accuracy which, after 3 years of work, we have achieved. The next objective was to get the price as low as possible without compromising the accuracy in any way at all. I have seen the Blum jigs but we cannot go down that route.

A hex shank cutter is now available as an option which does allow people to disconnect the cutter from the drill easily. There is a stop collar provided with the hex cutter which prevents it from falling through the guide block.

Many thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the new workbench.

I do not blame your very young daughter falling asleep during the video - I suspect there may be a few grown-ups who do the same whenever they see me on the screen.

Peter

Hi Peter. I completely understand the price point. I have no knowledge of the proces of inventing such a system - and least of all putting it to market. It just came to mind when I watched the video.

Well, I stay awake through all of your videos - and with time I suspect my daughter will too:-)

David

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #317 on:** February 23, 2017, 02:54 AM »

Quote from: eddomak on February 23, 2017, 01:43 AM

Thanks Peter for following up, and I totally understand this is out of your control.

Yes, unfortunately there is no official dealer here for the Parf guides.

Your Parf Dogs are available from Carbatec. It's unfortunate that (probably due to multiple legitimate factors like shipping, taxes, size of market etc) the costs are significantly more in Australia than the rest of the world. As a comparison, without postage costs the short dogs are $AUD15.00 from Axminster, $AUD19.45 from Lee Valley, and $AUD28.00 locally. So in the end it often makes more sense to order from overseas.

Gosh, what a difference in prices. Ii is hard to believe that local taxes and shipping alone would almost double the cost of an item especially if you consider that the Australian retailer will be buying the items at a wholesale rate and any import duty would be based on that wholesale rate.

Lets hope that Axminster can pull something out of the bag.

Peter

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #318 on:** February 23, 2017, 03:04 AM »

Quote from: David Pepke on February 23, 2017, 02:52 AM

Hi Peter. I completely understand the price point. I have no knowledge of the proces of inventing such a system - and least of all putting it to market. It just came to mind when I watched the video.

Well, I stay awake through all of your videos - and with time I suspect my daughter will too:-)

David

I have helped several people bring their inventions to market and the process is certainly not easy. If I had spent the time that I dedicated to the PGS over those 3 years pushing trolleys at the local supermarket I would be better off than I am now. Axminster also put in nearly 2 years of support, advice and prototype manufacturing and deserve recognition for not only that support but also for putting their faith in me.

Daughters are wonderful - I have two - and they are very good at looking after their Dads. My elder daughter is a great helper in the workshop as she knows about all of the processes, how the tools work and what order various things get done. Sadly my 3 children left home long ago and they all of children of their own - but no daughters (yet).

Cheers.

Peter

jools · « **Reply #319 on:** February 23, 2017, 01:29 PM »

For those of us on a limited budget here's what I achieved with £50 of diy store CLS timber and a sheet of MDF. The parf sticks where easy to use and the accuracy is outstanding with pins or dogs nice and tight in all directions.
I've ended up with a bench 2.4m long, 800mm wide with a cut capacity of 550mm.
I decided on one end as a clamping station and cutting at the other. Also nice to have an area with no holes when assembling/disassembling small parts.
It's amazing how a 20mm hole on a grid system can improve the way you work. I use 20mm plastic conduit and a glue straight joiner as cheap tool friendly dogs when sanding or dominoing. Home made cam clams are easy with a dog as the pivot point.
The only negative in the whole experience was the white tube cap on the packaging wasn't fixed and I shot the jig and rules across Axminster's car park walking back to the van

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #320 on:** February 23, 2017, 01:52 PM »

Quote from: jools on February 23, 2017, 01:29 PM

For those of us on a limited budget here's what I achieved with £50 of diy store CLS timber and a sheet of MDF. The parf sticks where easy to use and the accuracy is outstanding with pins or dogs nice and tight in all directions.
I've ended up with a bench 2.4m long, 800mm wide with a cut capacity of 550mm.
I decided on one end as a clamping station and cutting at the other. Also nice to have an area with no holes when assembling/disassembling small parts.
It's amazing how a 20mm hole on a grid system can improve the way you work. I use 20mm plastic conduit and a glue straight joiner as cheap tool friendly dogs when sanding or dominoing. Home made cam clams are easy with a dog as the pivot point.
The only negative in the whole experience was the white tube cap on the packaging wasn't fixed and I shot the jig and rules across Axminster's car park walking back to the van

Hi Jools,

I am trying to encourage people to show their own jigs, add-ons and ideas for 20 mm holed benches. I am still experimenting with easy to make vices for an MFT3 style bench and hope to release a video soon describing my recommended "Parf Vice" solution.

The more the merrier and so to you and everyone - please share your ideas for jigs, tools, clamping options and so on for any bench with a layout of 20 mm pattern of holes.

Peter

PS - I love what you have created

r_e_endymion · « **Reply #321 on:** February 24, 2017, 04:13 AM »

There's also this recent video on clamping things using only dogs and some piece of wood : simple and very effective (thanks TehDoor)

Peter,

I take the opportunity to thank you for your hard work on this great jig (sorry for my bad english, I'm french). I've bought it and will use it soon to do my new workbench top. I'm still in a reflection stage to make it compatible with my Zyliss vise (I known that you own one).
I like very much all the videos that you share with us, and I'm looking forward to see your next video.

Many thanks,

Damien

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #322 on:** February 24, 2017, 05:05 AM »

Quote from: r_e_endymion on February 24, 2017, 04:13 AM

There's also this recent video on clamping things using only dogs and some piece of wood : simple and very effective.

Peter,

I take the opportunity to thank you for your hard work on this great jig (sorry for my bad english, I'm french). I've bought it and will use it soon to do my new workbench top. I'm still in a reflection stage to make it compatible with my Zyliss vise (I known that you own one).
I like very much all the videos that you share with us, and I'm looking forward to see your next video.

Many thanks,

Damien

Hi Damien

Thank you for the video link.

I made my mobile bench compatible with the Zyliss by making sure that there was an overhanging edge on at least 2 sides.

Bon Chance.

Peter

CK3v1N · « **Reply #323 on:** March 01, 2017, 01:24 PM »

Peter, just received the parf system and have a few questions. Is it normal that the 3 mm pins are very very tight. Like almost impossible to remove once inserted. Also, how can I prevent chip out when drilling the 20mm holes? Thx for your time!

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #324 on:** March 01, 2017, 01:47 PM »

Quote from: CK3v1N on March 01, 2017, 01:24 PM

Peter, just received the parf system and have a few questions. Is it normal that the 3 mm pins are very very tight. Like almost impossible to remove once inserted. Also, how can I prevent chip out when drilling the 20mm holes? Thx for your time!

Hi CK

When you use the 3 mm pins it is not necessary to push them very far into the MDF - they will be very tight which is part of the overall close tolerances needed to get the overall accuracy. I would suggest that you do not try to get them more than about 5 mm into the MDF.

The fit of the 3 mm pins into the 20 mm Guide Block is also very close. The pins and the 20 mm Guide Blocks are checked for every single set sent out by Axminster. If they seem tight then they will give a dash after use - it is the anodising on the inside of the 3 mm holes.

Chipout should be almost zero as the 20 mm cutter has been designed especially to reduce this. The compromise is that there are often "disks" of MDF left on the end of the 20 mm cutter after it has exited - these need to be removed before trying to start to drill the next hole.

Peter

CK3v1N · « **Reply #325 on:** March 01, 2017, 01:53 PM »

Hi Peter. The fit between the 3 mm pin and the steel rulers seems very very tight. I had to remove 1 with pliers. I did encounter chip out. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I am probably doing something wrong:-)

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #326 on:** March 01, 2017, 02:46 PM »

Quote from: CK3v1N on March 01, 2017, 01:53 PM

Hi Peter. The fit between the 3 mm pin and the steel rulers seems very very tight. I had to remove 1 with pliers. I did encounter chip out. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I am probably doing something wrong:-)

I will PM my email address so that you can send the pictures and I will forward them to Axminster for you.

Peter

Bert Vanderveen · « **Reply #327 on:** March 01, 2017, 05:28 PM »

Extreme fitting implies a kind of suction effect. That is one of the reasons that domino's have grooves - they facilitate glue escaping, but also prevent sticking because of suction.

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #328 on:** March 02, 2017, 06:12 AM »

Quote from: CK3v1N on March 01, 2017, 01:53 PM

Hi Peter. The fit between the 3 mm pin and the steel rulers seems very very tight. I had to remove 1 with pliers. I did encounter chip out. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I am probably doing something wrong:-)

I have had a long conversation with the senior engineer at Axminster and I now understand why this is happening.

The PGS has been designed with very tight tolerances and they are now having the 3 mm Pins ground to improve accuracy.

The 20 mm Guide Block (which has three 3 mm holes for the Pins) is anodised and an allowance has to be made for the amount of decrease in diameter of the holes caused by anodising.

The 3 mm holes in the Parf Sticks are deliberately made as close as possible to the nominal 3 mm of the drill and Pins.

The net result is that there is a chance that the 3 mm Pins may be quite tight in both the 20 mm Guide Block and the Parf Sticks when everything is brand new. If this is the case then use a twisting motion, keeping the 3 mm Pin in line with the hole, and take it a little at a time. Do not use a hammer or any other "impact" tool.

This should then leave you with a PGS that is as accurate as it is possible to have.

The 3 mm Pins are always going to be tight when you try to insert them into a hole in an MDF top made with a 3 mm drill. You do not need to bury the Pin up to its hilt and so just use a twisting motion and get it at least 6 mm in and that will ensure good registration for the Parf Stick or 20 mm Guide Block.

The fit of the Veritas small Parf Dogs in the 20 mm Guide Block is also a close tolerance. If you are having any difficulty try and ensure that the Parf Dog is inserted evenly all round rather than at a slight angle.

If anyone is still concerned then rather than delaying matters by reporting it here do please go direct to Axminster Customer Services (cs@axminster.co.uk) who will respond very quickly. If you have any concerns with that process then please PM me.

Peter

Peter Parfitt · « **Reply #329 on:** March 10, 2017, 05:43 AM »

Hi Everyone

It is really important to use an extractor when using the 20 mm Guide Block of the PGS. In my videos to date you will have seen me just holding the end of my 27 mm hose (connected to my CTL26) up against the 20 mm Guide Block.

We have seen one or two clever devices designed by PGS users to hold the extractor hose in place and I am grateful for their efforts.

I have spent some time working on various designs of my own and have now settled on what I consider to be the simplest to make and the easiest to use. As you might expect, there is a video:

The plans are available free of charge but I need an email address in order to send them out.

The advantage of this design is that it is quite small, takes just about 1 hour to make (I made the second one in 30 minutes), it can be used at both drilling positions and the hose can be attached on either side. It also helps the operator to keep the 20 mm Guide Block flat on the bench top.

Peter