Author Topic: Jig for aligning multiple saws to same rail or resetting a saw to current rail  (Read 2125 times)

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Offline Sci

  • Posts: 12
I have 2 ts55 a ts75 and a tsc55.  Last week I dropped one of them and it became unaligned to the guide rail.  I found adjustments difficult with the set screws being under the saw.  I made this little jig to help fine tune all the saws to the same tracks.  It allows you to access the screws while the saw is properly adjusted.  If something similar has been posted I apologize.  Just thought it may help someone.

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Offline Crazyraceguy

  • Posts: 575
That's a great idea.
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MFK700 (2)
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Offline grobkuschelig

  • Posts: 708
Great jig!
I only have two saws but found the measurements already quite time consuming and cumbersome.

Will definitely make one of these in some downtime!

Offline tjskinny

  • Posts: 115
Great Idea !   I have seen some small sections of track being used as a jig but without the access holes.   

Offline Peter_C

  • Posts: 1119
Great Idea !   I have seen some small sections of track being used as a jig but without the access holes.   
Tom did that with a short piece of track attached to thick wood, then plunged saw "A" in so all others would be set to the same. Having a groove cut deep into solid wood would give one a go, no go situation. Combine the two ways and we might be onto a great design. Now I just need to buy another rail to cut up.

Offline dawatson833

  • Posts: 21
I have an mft and need align my HKC 55 to the track.  Not sure how you're using this jig.  Does the saw and jig go on the track.
Not sure how it is used.

Offline mino

  • Posts: 513
@Festool USA
Please feed this back to HQ.
With a bit of a tuning, a plastic molding like this should be an official accessory!
The Machine does not have a brain. Use Yours!
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
AGC 18@AGC 125 flange, BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Protool: AGP 125, VCP 260
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36@LR32, EVP 13 H-2CA, S 57 A
My Precious: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 1400 holy, 2400, GECKO, GRS 16 PE, GRS 16 PE

Offline squall_line

  • Posts: 588
With a bit of a tuning, a plastic molding like this should be an official accessory!

What popped into my head was a 3D printed plate such as this jig that could be secured to a sufficient piece of material to be cut into and used by a person in their shop.

Or laser-cut it from phenolic or something similar and put the extra piece on to simulate the rail.

Offline FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 1006
@Festool USA
Please feed this back to HQ.
With a bit of a tuning, a plastic molding like this should be an official accessory!

Make that Festool Germany HQ as well with honor to @Sci for a clever idea.
I’ll definitely make one, thanks for sharing!
“The Stig” Yes, it is true, at least some part of it..
“If you have an old Land Rover and a fit wife, you’re most likely always busy”

Offline Sci

  • Posts: 12
I have an mft and need align my HKC 55 to the track.  Not sure how you're using this jig.  Does the saw and jig go on the track.
Not sure how it is used.

The saw rides on the plywood just like it's a track.  The 1/4" plywood is what the saw rides on.  You then cut the plywood with the saw.  The holes are cut into the bottom of the 3/4" plywood so you can access the adjustment screws.  The HK will also fit on the jig, but the screws are on top so it's not as necessary.  The nice thing about the plywood jig is there is no play like there is when using a track.

Offline Sci

  • Posts: 12
@Festool USA
Please feed this back to HQ.
With a bit of a tuning, a plastic molding like this should be an official accessory!

Make that Festool Germany HQ as well with honor to @Sci for a clever idea.
I’ll definitely make one, thanks for sharing!

This blew up more than I thought it would.  I honestly thought someone else had to have made one of these and posted it already.  Seemed so simple to me I almost didn't post it up.  Thanks for the kudos everyone.

Offline tjbnwi

  • Posts: 6425
  • No longer in Cedar Tucky Indiana
Great Idea !   I have seen some small sections of track being used as a jig but without the access holes.   
Tom did that with a short piece of track attached to thick wood, then plunged saw "A" in so all others would be set to the same. Having a groove cut deep into solid wood would give one a go, no go situation. Combine the two ways and we might be onto a great design. Now I just need to buy another rail to cut up.

This is what Peter is refering to.

I have 5 TS saws, I needed them all to match. I've also have set others saws to match mine.

To make this work the best, if you have R and E model saws, use the R model for your baseline saw. The E has a little more adjustment than the R.

Having rail to cut is not an issue for me. 2 weeks ago I had to cut one of the 16' rails to 13'.

The base material I used is HDPE. I choose this over wood for the stability of the material.

Secured the rail to the HDPE, made sure the slop was out of the gibbs. Locked the saw to the rail using the anti-kickback devices, plunged full depth while cutting the HDPE.

Any subsequent saws are set on the rail unplugged or batteries removed, slowly plunge into the existing cut. If the blade does not freely enter the cut, loosen the base screws, plunge into the cut, once the blade is in the kerf pull the FastFix up, tighten the screws, remove saw from jig, flip thighted balance of screws.

This fixture sets the saws aligned to each other and sets the saws toe.

Tom

Offline Peter_C

  • Posts: 1119
Tom, as many of us have  TS55's, HK's and TS75's my question to you would be how you would address the 2.2mm vs 2.4mm (vs 2.6mm) kerf? Are you using the TS75 as saw "A" meaning the one that makes the original cut? Or maybe you just have 5 saws that are 160mm blades? Even still the HK blades are an even thinner kerf, so it must become more about setting the saw against the rail side of the cut for all but the largest kerf, (Which can register off both sides).

Brilliant on the HDPE!

Someday I will have to make a permanent jig, but it is easy to do a temporary jig by screwing the rail down to some scrap wood like a 2"x12", plunging in using the stop as Tom does, then setup the other saws. Should a saw get dropped or come out of adjustment, one could just screw the rail down to scrap again and make another cut. No rails are sacrificed in doing so. The OP's version from scrap works well too, and I really like the adjustment access cutouts.

Offline 4thisguy

  • Posts: 12
Timely discussion as I just got a new TSC 55 this weekend and was thinking about aligning to my existing rails.  That said, I have a pretty old TS 75 (think I bought it used 10-12 years ago?!)...am I wrong in remembering that the older models have limited adjustment?  I got a HKC 55 two years ago and couldn’t seem to get that to match my 75.  I didn’t worry about it too much, since I’m usually rough cutting when I’m using that saw and it cuts wide of the guide.

I would LOVE to get my new TSC 55 and old TS 75 aligned. If I could also get my HKC 55 aligned that would be an added bonus!
Thanks,
Guy

Offline JD2720

  • Posts: 1218
@Festool USA
Please feed this back to HQ.
With a bit of a tuning, a plastic molding like this should be an official accessory!

The service department at Festool USA has been using this type of jig to adjust saws for more than 12 years. I saw the jig when the training class I was part of got a tour of the service department.  I have a short piece of guide rail that I use.

Offline mino

  • Posts: 513
The service department at Festool USA has been using this type of jig to adjust saws for more than 12 years. I saw the jig when the training class I was part of got a tour of the service department.  I have a short piece of guide rail that I use.
Great, what is the part # so we can order ?
/joke

This is good, so just needs proper commercialization.

A customer should not need to dig FOG to be able to align his tool. And, frankly, while the concept of a jig or a small rail off-cut mated with some plastic part is not complex, it is not that easy to get it right even when you know what you want. For a start, the rail is normally "suspended" in the air on the splinter guard and the central ribs. Not so easy to just "take a raile and screw it to something ... that will most likely bend the rail if some special shim or rail trimming is not done.

I would like to see this in the Accessories list when I go browse for a TSC 55 etc.
Were it under $100, I would have likely got it when getting my TSC ..
The Machine does not have a brain. Use Yours!
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
AGC 18@AGC 125 flange, BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Protool: AGP 125, VCP 260
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36@LR32, EVP 13 H-2CA, S 57 A
My Precious: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 1400 holy, 2400, GECKO, GRS 16 PE, GRS 16 PE

Offline squall_line

  • Posts: 588
snip

This fixture sets the saws aligned to each other and sets the saws toe.

Tom

I got my TS55 from Recon recently.  I looked it over for completeness, and it appears that the base plate isn't toed correctly, although I didn't extend the blade to compare it at the time.

With a plate like this, it might help to reduce returns and complaints, especially for toe or camber issues (using automotive terms).

Would a thick enough piece of HDPE be a reasonable substitute for using a square to verify 0% bevel is set correctly on the saw?

Offline Michael Kellough

  • Posts: 5263
A thick plate would require the blade to be perfectly turned to 90 degrees prior to setting on the jig. I think it would be too difficult to set 90* and distance to guide rib simultaneously. Even with a 1/2” thick plate you need to be very close to square to start.