Apparently I am missing something, How do they work?
If those little clamps are screwed to the door, it seems that the track slides in from the side? That's hardly "lift and go"

Not a track owner, and living at a place with very very cold winters, even if I were one, I dare not hold anything of weight on the garage door. But looking at the nice (friction fit?) design, I have one question: would wear and tear on the the contact points of the plastic clips be a concern in the long run?

Obviously we did miss something. But to be fair, there wasn't much explanation given about how it actually worked.

I suspect there's a lip behind the rail that hooks into the slot at the backside.

A pic of the thing without the rail, might have made that more obvious.

Wow quite the welcome to someone new to the forum, just sharing a solution to their problem

Wow quite the welcome to someone new to the forum, just sharing a solution to their problem

I'm certainly not condemning the thing, looks interesting actually. The post is odd though? It's just a "throwing this out there" rather vaguely, and leaving no information about either making them for yourself, or when/if someone could be making them for sale?
Even a simple "would anyone be interested" would have been helpful.

It is clever, and uses less material than other designs.

Apparently it already works when the door is open. See last pic.

There must be a short tab that hooks into the rail’s backs slot but it would have to be short enough that if the door was jostled too much the rail could come loose.

But I’m uncertain how this works given how shallow the recess in the visible part is. Maybe there is some springiness to the material and/or design of the part that fits into the back slot?

I apologize for the delay, I'm new here and I wasn't sure what details would be most relavent on the original post. Here are some of the many prototypes including a few that used springs. In the end, gravity based is working better and easier to print than spring based. If I have the door open and I wack the track with lumber or something there is still a chance of it falling. Depending on how hard you hit something, even plastic could break or screws could rip out. I'm a careful person but should I try to fix these concerns? At what point are risks sufficiently addressed?

The ones mounted to my garage now are PLA. However they are also designed to allow easy printing in other materials with zero support. It is also designed with the ideal layer alignment for strength. Being winter PLA is fine and is actually quite rigid. My garage gets warm in the summer but not blistering. I may see how the PLA does or move to ASA.

The design also allows the top screw to be placed while mounted on the track so the track itself can be used for alignment. A slide in name plate is used to hide the screw and make the holder more attractive. The slide in name plate also allows various compatible brands to be interchanged. Working alone, I found hanging these while holding up a track was not practical.  I ended up measuring and marking for my second track. I liked working that way better. Spacing of 24-28" seems ideal but still testing.

I'm working on holders for my TSO Parallel Guides and square.

I hope I addressed all the questions.

@phr0Ze how does one get them?  are they for sale? file available for self printing?

It appears as though the bracket does indeed go behind the rail and likely has a tongue that fits into the back with the tail being removed by sliding to one side and then back the other way.

I’d like to mount my 3000mm rail but don’t want to drill into my door and worried how well some 3M adhesive or such will hold up in the cold winter where perhaps it will peel off.

OP, can you elaborate on these points?

Use the 3M double face to act as a “clamp”, while the E6000 adhesive cures.  The E6000 will not fail if a generous application is used.  It is like silicone adhesive on steroids.  Styrene based, it is heat resistant (you can use it to hem you jeans and still run it through the washer and dryer).

I routinely use the mirror adhesive mounting squares for that exact purpose.  Where strength is not an issue, I use them with silicone adhesive.  E6000 is available in hobby shops and home centers.  It remains flexible, so vibrations are not an issue.

Also from Amazon.com in squeeze tube and caulking tubes.

@phr0Ze how does one get them?  are they for sale? file available for self printing?

If you are in the US, I’ll mail you a pair as long as you understand it is ‘beta’  and it will be PLA, not for hot garages. Anyways, If all that sounds cool dm an address.

It appears as though the bracket does indeed go behind the rail and likely has a tongue that fits into the back with the tail being removed by sliding to one side and then back the other way.

I’d like to mount my 3000mm rail but don’t want to drill into my door and worried how well some 3M adhesive or such will hold up in the cold winter where perhaps it will peel off.

OP, can you elaborate on these points?

At some point you have to question which method will cause more damage or be bigger PITA if removing the mounts later a few screw holes that can be filled with some white caulk or scraping some super strong adhesive off cleanly without damage. If you are dead set against possibly marring the door then I would look at using the existing door hardware, somehow.  Based on my experience with most garage doors you should have some hinges at the top and bottom of each panel.  I would try to remove the screws for the hinge and span between them with some 1/2 ply. (You will need to get longer screws)then screw the track mounts to the ply.