Author Topic: Modified MFT/3 table (Read 35188 times)

Fin66 · « **on:** March 21, 2014, 12:21 PM »

Pictures of my extended MFT/3 table, 2 meters wide. Now I just need to plunge the holes with a tempalte.

Sparktrician · « **Reply #1 on:** March 21, 2014, 12:33 PM »

Where did you find those long side extrusions?

Fin66 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 21, 2014, 01:20 PM »

From Festool in Finland, part number 496824

sgt_rjp · « **Reply #3 on:** March 21, 2014, 01:32 PM »

So you'll use the MFT top as a template? I'm interested in your results. Have you done this before? Will you drill then finish each hole with template bit? That's a lot of holes, but it's a whole lot cheaper than CNC or LR32(when you don't already have it). That's the way I'm leaning right now, but have never done anything like that.

b_m_hart · « **Reply #4 on:** March 21, 2014, 01:38 PM »

Quote from: Fin66 on March 21, 2014, 01:20 PM

From Festool in Finland, part number 496824

NAINA for some unfathomable reason.

jacko9 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 21, 2014, 02:05 PM »

Nice set up, I wonder why the long extrusions aren't available over here?

Jack

Fin66 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 21, 2014, 02:21 PM »

I have a LR32 and a 20mm router plunge bit and also some 20mm bench dogs, but I'm still trying to figure out how to do it. The LR32 might be the solution I will opt for.

squarecut · « **Reply #7 on:** March 21, 2014, 05:08 PM »

Quote from: sgt_rjp on March 21, 2014, 01:32 PM

So you'll use the MFT top as a template? I'm interested in your results. Have you done this before? Will you drill then finish each hole with template bit? That's a lot of holes, but it's a whole lot cheaper than CNC or LR32(when you don't already have it). That's the way I'm leaning right now, but have never done anything like that.

That will work, I did something similar when making extension wings for my MFT. Used the MFT top as a template, then used my plunge router with a guide bushing & 1/2" spiral up-cut bit to drill holes and finished the holes with a pattern bit. Just make sure to have a backer board under the work piece to avoid blow-out.

Sparktrician · « **Reply #8 on:** March 21, 2014, 06:35 PM »

Quote from: b_m_hart on March 21, 2014, 01:38 PM

Quote from: Fin66 on March 21, 2014, 01:20 PM
From Festool in Finland, part number 496824

NAINA for some unfathomable reason.

RATZ!!!

sgt_rjp · « **Reply #9 on:** March 21, 2014, 06:44 PM »

@squarecut, so how was it? I've seen some people recommend that method, but then others say they'll never do it again that way. Maybe it depends how big a top you do? What router did you use? I've got only got one router(makita 1100). With the price increase looming, trying to decide if I should by an OF1010. I've bought a bunch of green tools recently(as well as some red

and will buy more by the end of the month(more green), but wondering if I can save some money by skipping the router. I'm sure I can do the mft holes with the Makita, but I'd like to get a smaller router and this might be the excuse I need for the OF1010.

Sparktrician · « **Reply #10 on:** March 21, 2014, 06:54 PM »

One thing to remember is that the OF 1010, despite being a great router, can handle only 1/4" and 8mm shank router bits while the OF 1400 can handle those PLUS 1/2" shank bits. I'd much rather use the OF 1400 with a 1/2" shank, 20mm diameter bit for this kind of a job.

sgt_rjp · « **Reply #11 on:** March 21, 2014, 07:08 PM »

That's what I'm afraid of. But, having the 1100, I can't really justify the 1400. I've seen a lot of posts saying they've done large MFT tops with no trouble with the 1010. Also, doing it in stages like I would be, I would think it would be okay.

Sparktrician · « **Reply #12 on:** March 21, 2014, 07:16 PM »

Festool bit #491072 has an 8mm shank and a 20mm cut diameter. It's a nice bit. It will work well in the OF 1010.

duburban · « **Reply #13 on:** March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM »

I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

Sparktrician · « **Reply #14 on:** March 21, 2014, 08:08 PM »

Quote from: duburban on March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM

I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table? Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely. Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery. If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother? After all, it's a sacrificial top. I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid. YMMV.

b_m_hart · « **Reply #15 on:** March 21, 2014, 08:10 PM »

Quote from: duburban on March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM

I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

Using the LR32 and some dogs (like Qwas' rail dogs) will get you very accurate results. How.much is the CNC job going to cost you?

bkharman · « **Reply #16 on:** March 21, 2014, 09:13 PM »

Quote from: Sparktrician on March 21, 2014, 08:08 PM

Quote from: duburban on March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table? Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely. Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery. If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother? After all, it's a sacrificial top. I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid. YMMV.

I don't use the fence on my MFT. I just use the holes to line up 90's and 45's. I like the speed of it. I would need my holes perfect to keep doing that. I am building a larger work center and have contemplated the CNC route vs. me using my lr32.

Depends on price and how close the CNC shop would be.

squarecut · « **Reply #17 on:** March 21, 2014, 09:37 PM »

Quote from: sgt_rjp on March 21, 2014, 06:44 PM

@squarecut, so how was it? I've seen some people recommend that method, but then others say they'll never do it again that way. Maybe it depends how big a top you do? What router did you use? I've got only got one router(makita 1100). With the price increase looming, trying to decide if I should by an OF1010. I've bought a bunch of green tools recently(as well as some red and will buy more by the end of the month(more green), but wondering if I can save some money by skipping the router. I'm sure I can do the mft holes with the Makita, but I'd like to get a smaller router and this might be the excuse I need for the OF1010.

sgt_rip
Sorry to say I do not have a Festool router (it's on my upgrade list) I used my DeWalt 618 with plunge base. To insure a level of accuracy I first made a template of 1/4" mdf, cut it oversize width-wise and added cleats. My extension wings only required a 35 hole pattern as they measure the same depth as the MFT top but are only 21-1/4" long. But two wing equal 70 holes - worked out great, holes are dead on. Check out picture 15 & 16 at this link. - http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/my-custom-built-expandable-mft-on-rolling-cart/

mwildt · « **Reply #18 on:** March 21, 2014, 10:20 PM »

Looks very nice. Could be nice to see in NA, but then having a large top would be a nice move as well.

I'm estimating a ball park price is around $320, for the profiles, but that could most likely end up being cheaper since most Festool products are cheaper here than Europe.

Fin66 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 22, 2014, 05:14 AM »

Now with holes using LR32 system.

Sparktrician · « **Reply #20 on:** March 22, 2014, 09:01 AM »

Quote from: bkharman on March 21, 2014, 09:13 PM

Quote from: Sparktrician on March 21, 2014, 08:08 PM
Quote from: duburban on March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table? Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely. Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery. If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother? After all, it's a sacrificial top. I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid. YMMV.

I don't use the fence on my MFT. I just use the holes to line up 90's and 45's. I like the speed of it. I would need my holes perfect to keep doing that. I am building a larger work center and have contemplated the CNC route vs. me using my lr32.

Depends on price and how close the CNC shop would be.

I understand that. I do use the fence which is why I posed the question. For my purposes, the LR 32 would do a splendid job and look great. The bigger issue would be getting a 20mm bit that would cut the holes precisely so that my QWAS dogs would fit right.

Richard/RMW · « **Reply #21 on:** March 22, 2014, 09:32 AM »

Quote from: Sparktrician on March 22, 2014, 09:01 AM

Quote from: bkharman on March 21, 2014, 09:13 PM
Quote from: Sparktrician on March 21, 2014, 08:08 PM
Quote from: duburban on March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table? Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely. Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery. If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother? After all, it's a sacrificial top. I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid. YMMV.

I don't use the fence on my MFT. I just use the holes to line up 90's and 45's. I like the speed of it. I would need my holes perfect to keep doing that. I am building a larger work center and have contemplated the CNC route vs. me using my lr32.

Depends on price and how close the CNC shop would be.

I understand that. I do use the fence which is why I posed the question. For my purposes, the LR 32 would do a splendid job and look great. The bigger issue would be getting a 20mm bit that would cut the holes precisely so that my QWAS dogs would fit right.

The Festool 20mm boring bit (491072) works for all the dogs I have, fit is a hair looser than my MFT but not enough to cause a problem.

RMW

bkharman · « **Reply #22 on:** March 22, 2014, 09:36 AM »

Quote from: Sparktrician on March 22, 2014, 09:01 AM

Quote from: bkharman on March 21, 2014, 09:13 PM
Quote from: Sparktrician on March 21, 2014, 08:08 PM
Quote from: duburban on March 21, 2014, 07:44 PM
I'm curious why people aren't having a cnc shop do these?

Can one really achieve that kind of precision?

I'd have to ask, is that kind of precision that necessary in what amounts to a work table? Yes, it's nice to have from the standpoint of knowing that it was done precisely. Yes, it looks better and is in context with Festool's precisely made machinery. If I looked, I could likely find a CNC shop to do the job, but aside from the aesthetics, why bother? After all, it's a sacrificial top. I, for one, have not encountered a situation that depended on the holes in my MFTs being cut dead nuts on the 96mm grid. YMMV.

I don't use the fence on my MFT. I just use the holes to line up 90's and 45's. I like the speed of it. I would need my holes perfect to keep doing that. I am building a larger work center and have contemplated the CNC route vs. me using my lr32.

Depends on price and how close the CNC shop would be.

I understand that. I do use the fence which is why I posed the question. For my purposes, the LR 32 would do a splendid job and look great. The bigger issue would be getting a 20mm bit that would cut the holes precisely so that my QWAS dogs would fit right.

Yeah. I have the same concern on the bit. I have the 20mm bit and have made various tops and it all worked well with my Qwas, Precision, Rail and Parf dogs. I was thinking of getting a 1" hole drilled on 96mm and use a template ring in the future.

Fin66 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 09, 2014, 03:43 PM »

I had a aluminium laser cut template made this week and used a 24mm copyring and aligned the template with 24mm home made "Qwas Dogs", the result is very good.

Richard/RMW · « **Reply #24 on:** April 09, 2014, 05:21 PM »

Quote from: Fin66 on April 09, 2014, 03:43 PM

I had a aluminium laser cut template made this week and used a 24mm copyring and aligned the template with 24mm home made "Qwas Dogs", the result is very good.

Wow!

That is an impressive chuck of AL. I had a similar, much smaller, plastic template made but I have not gone past testing it yet. I used 30MM holes in the field to match a 30MM router guide, and 24MM 1/2 circles at the edges to align it with my 24MM dogs. The idea was to cut the first pass of holes, insert dogs in the last row and move the template to match them, repeat.

I think I paid $80 for my template, I hate to think what that one cost...

RMW

Reiska · « **Reply #25 on:** April 10, 2014, 06:48 AM »

Nice template and welcome to FOG fellow Finlander

Whereabouts are you from? Espoo here

Fin66 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 10, 2014, 06:51 AM »

It's a small world, Espoo to!

Kev · « **Reply #27 on:** April 10, 2014, 08:08 AM »

I'd honestly think that pairing 2 MFT/3's together would be a more desirable option for me if I needed a lot of width.

Can I ask what drove you down the "build custom" path?

Julian Tracy · « **Reply #28 on:** April 10, 2014, 04:15 PM »

I used my MFT3 top as a template to make a home brew version. I simply traced the holes with a pencil, rough plunge cut them with a 1/2" router bit, then aligned the two tops together and used a pattern bit through the rough holes to a final perfect top.

No reason to believe there'd be any appreciable decline in accuracy to my mind in the method I use.

Why bother with high dollar 20mm bits if you already have an existing top to use as a template?

I sold my MFT/3 after making my own, had waited so I could use the top as my template. Worked out great.

JT

ivanhoe · « **Reply #29 on:** April 10, 2014, 04:36 PM »

Very nice JT! I will have to file that method away....