JZ/Rusty,

Thanks...that was the last part I was wondering about -- which size set screws to use, and whether to use the conical type.

Just finished one connector.  Still have to add the little screws to hold the bottom piece to the top piece and finish the second connector.  But I must say the connector locks up in the rail quite nicely.  Looks like it is going to work perfectly.
BTW, I used 10x32 1/4 setscrews and they work great.
I hope to cut some ply this weekend so I'll be putting two 55" rails together so we'll see how they really work.

Here are mine. Roughly 15" long.

@Slartibartfass- that's a nice looking drill press/milling vice.  What model is it?

@weekendwarrior its actually a Sherline Mill. See http://www.sherline.com

Speaking of MFT connectors, are there any threads concerning them(yours or others)?  I just ordered a second MFT/3 and was already thinking about doing something with 8020 when I saw yours.

Do you think these would work acceptably if made from T6061 aluminum instead of steel? I know the Festool ones are steel but I'd really like to stay away from using a dissimilar metal if aluminum would work? Also it would be easier to work with than steel.

I know it wouldn't be AS strong, but the question is "would it be strong ENOUGH"?

When I made my rail connectors I used 12 x 3 mm stainless steel so I don't have to worry about rusting.
I also made them 500mm long and they line up the rails perfectly.

When I mentioned MFT connectors, I was actually referring to Slartibartfass's.  I was wondering if you could use longer lengths of 8020 and have gaps between the tables.  Maybe even another work surface between them?

To use these style of connectors (not my idea btw) you would just need to up-size them.

As to using 80-20 you can hang them on the MFT/3 profile between tables to act as a support.... works with the 8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 1515 ULS profiles.

i've done that to hang some Festool clamps or small extension tables to the MFT/3 (also not my idea....power of the FOG at work....).

I made two sets of these with a few changes: 1) a punch mark in the middle to make sure they are centered between the two tracks 2) I used a 1/16" roll pin at each end to keep them together and 3) filed the ends with a very slight taper and rounded the ends a bit to make them easier to insert into the slot in the track.

They work great. I broke down a dozen sheets of 3/4" ply without any movement and everything was within ~0.5mm. My only regret was not making them a bit smaller so they fit into the TS55 systainer. The ones I made barely fit diagonally in a systainer.

Quote from: jcoby on August 18, 2015, 03:55 PM

The ones I made barely fit diagonally in a systainer.

Mine were also too long so I just leave them in the middle of the longer track. That way you always have them on hand and the screws don't get lost.

That is one great idea!  Thanks 

Mike A.

The hockey puck shimming up the MFT is particularly genius. 

Quote from: sgt_rjp on April 01, 2015, 04:07 PM

When I mentioned MFT connectors, I was actually referring to Slartibartfass's.  I was wondering if you could use longer lengths of 8020 and have gaps between the tables.  Maybe even another work surface between them?

To use these style of connectors (not my idea btw) you would just need to up-size them.

As to using 80-20 you can hang them on the MFT/3 profile between tables to act as a support.... works with the 8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 1515 ULS profiles.

i've done that to hang some Festool clamps or small extension tables to the MFT/3 (also not my idea....power of the FOG at work....).

(Attachment Link)

I'm reviving a dead horse here, after being reminded of this on @UncleJoe 's thread.

I purchased the materials to make these, but I don't have a drill press.   I've drilled through metal plenty of times with my hand drills, but it seems like precision may be more critical here.

Is it possible to do these without a drill press?  Or should I be looking to find time in a shop that has one I can use?

Thanks,
Adam

Great idea! I'm glad this thread has resurfaced.

I am going to order the materials to make a set for my DeWalt tracks.

I made a set of these today.  These are a great idea.  Thank you fellows for posting your ideas here    I ordered the materials from McMaster-Carr.  I used 1/4x20 set screws with a point on them.  The screws that hold the pieces together I got locally.  Could not find short no.8's so I used m4 x 70x 6mm  screws   They worked perfectly

Thanks to everyones ideas & input and @Bohdan for the info.

To the metric guys out there and especially Australians 12mm x 3mm stainless steel is available at most stainless steel merchant

I bought 4m bar from merchant as that was there minimum supply plus $4 a cut!

Would have been cheaper from these guys inc $13 delivery http://allthingsstainless.com.au/virtuemart/stainless-steel-flat-bar/304-12mm-x-3mm-stainless-steel-flat-bar-per-metre.html

500mm x 4 bars (all 3mm thick). They fit nice and snug. 8 x M5 6mm set/grub screws from any nuts & bolts shop $2 for 8 or if you're desperate - Bunnings for $6.48 for 10

I bought a Tap & Die set last week from Aldi for $29.00 as I knew I needed one for this project. It worked a treat as I'd never done this stuff before. I didnt bother with the 2 screws to hold it together as the bars are clamped nice and tight.
One note that they do sell Mild steel but was 13mm x 3mm - it might fit and would be easier to cut and a lot cheaper.

HTH anyone who is thinking of making them - well worth it and the bonus as we all know - save money and the possibility of damaged rails
Cheers

 

At 12mm wide and 18" long, are these connectors sufficient to align the two tracks without assembling with a straightedge?  It would be easy to upgrade to 36" long, but if 18" gets the job done...

The end of the rails are not necessarily square; and there will be slop in the channel for 12mm connector, so you would need a straight edge to align the rails. I use Betterley straightline.

Betterley Straightline