Quote from: ChuckM on April 27, 2021, 11:03 AM

When angle accuracy matters (whether it's 90*, 22.5* or 75*), tradespeople building countertops, kitchen cabinets, etc. use this not-so-secret weapon as a last resort!

https://tinyurl.com/4pp8274u

That looks like it might be useful, I have never seen that stuff before

Just be aware that the stuff called "painter's putty" is oil based and it takes forever to dry/harden. It is meant to hold glass to the sash, it makes a lousy filler. There are better options for that.
Durham's rockhard water putty comes to mind or ordinary autobody filler both work well.

As far as the original project of this topic, the famous "it depends" comes to mind.
In some situations and for most of the past years, it is just quicker/easier to template it. I have seen guys do it with cardboard strips, but 1/4" plywood or MDF strips are far more accurate.
In more recent years we would do that with a Laser Templator. This can then be uploaded to the CNC to cut out parts for Solid Surface tops, or particle board for laminate tops. On a job of solid wood like that it would likely just be cut out of 1/4" MDF for an odd shape or just transferred to a measured drawing for simple rectangular parts.

When it comes to furniture pieces, I wouldn't use any of the putty except the Timber Mate which you can find a matching color or stain it (the latter is a safer bet in my opinion). It doesn't shrink, and, with proper finishing skill, does a good job fooling an average consumer.

Way back when, Windsor plywood sold a wood filler that was wood ground fine with a solvent based binder. I don't remember the name.That was the last one I found that would stain like most woods. It was also easy to thin with lacquer thinner when it dried out in the can.

I have not tried the timber mate.

I like the flat square clamp friendly sides of your table.

"Famowood?"

I don't think so. But I can't be sure it has been a long time since I used it.