Good stuff, @Cheese!  Now I recognize that fitting as being one and the same that came with my CMS.  Methinks I'll stay with the radiator hose that has pretty much the same angle as the Festool fitting, but without the extra piece that needs to be cut off.  Several years ago I went through an extensive search for a matching size radiator hose at the local auto parts place.  I found one that is an exact fit, but I had to surgically remove an extra bend in the hose.  I'll have to go down and see if I can find the part number.  OK, the part number is on the lower attached photo, but be aware that this is the end I surgically removed.  In the upper photo, the end that is closest to the CMS fence just easily slips over the casting with no muss, no fuss.  The end of the radiator hose on the CMS came with a larger inside diameter than the opposite end.  The DE hose end just slips right into the smaller end of the radiator hose.  I don't need hose clamps at all to keep everything in place.  I like that the end I am using has only a ~25° bend (little effect on the extraction compared to a sharper bend), and it will slip right over the top of the micro-adjuster when I get that part finished.   

Quote from: Sparktrician on October 06, 2022, 03:13 PM

I like that the end I am using has only a ~25° bend (little effect on the extraction compared to a sharper bend), and it will slip right over the top of the micro-adjuster when I get that part finished.   

Ya, it's one of those rare cases where smaller is better... ...I hate 90º angles for dust extraction or HVAC connections with a passion. For HVAC, a simple 90º connection is equivalent to an additional 10 feet of ductwork.

Curious as to what attaches the Micro Adjust to the Festool fence structure?

Right now, nothing.  I've had the project on hold for quite a while due to the issue that you mentioned of the added bulk of the fence with the Micro Adjust attached.  Your solution has gotten me back on track with the project, so I thank you for the idea and details.   

On a different note...I'll be looking for the weekly Sedge shout-out to you on Festool Live. 

 ...I missed the weekly Friday Sedgely shout-out yesterday...

Hey Sparky @Sparktrician I had to move the CMS yesterday so I thought I'd take a couple of pics on how things work.

Like I mentioned previously, when the fence studs are loosened, the magnets immediately attract and hold them along with the spacer & washer.




When you lift the fence up off of the router plate, then the magnet pulls the stud assembly completely to the magnet for safe keeping. 




Place the Micro Adjust on top of the fence and you have a nice compact package to move or store.




When setting it back up, align the center line mark on the router plate with the mark on the Micro Adjust.

I've been wanting to add a DRO to the CMS to measure both router bit height and fence movement. A sort of Y & Z axis hybrid. After months of searching I never really found a unit that was small enough for the task, all the units available become pretty bulky to be adding to a router table that was designed to be PORTABLE in the first place. Kind of defeats the nature of the table.

I decided for now to just add the Z axis and chose the Wixey WR525 model.

http://www.wixey.com/remote/index.html

It's a really easy installation as long as you take your time. A #8-32 FH screw to secure the vertical magnetic scale and a #8-32 BH screw to secure the readhead. This installation on the CMS is with a 2200 router installed.

Here's a photo of the magnetic scale suspended from the CMS aluminum base plate while the redhead is supported by the CMS plastic carriage.




To support the readhead I used the existing hole that's in the plastic carriage.




It's a snug fit but everything works well.




A single countersunk hole had to be added to the CMS aluminum plate but that gets lost with all of the other countersunk fasteners on the surface.




Now I need to find a place to mount the DRO display. I'm thinking magnets...

Nice mod.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did something similar some time ago, but I wanted a solution that did not make any changes to the CMS plate or its components, so I toyed around with a 3D-printed solution. I never got around to finessing it because it worked fine at a particular point and I then moved on to other things, but if anyone wants to try it for themselves, I've attached the STL files you'll need as a ZIP file. All it needs is some longer bolts for the bottom part where it connects with the plate and the screws etc. from the Wixey install.

Otherwise things are friction fit or you can apply a little glue if you feel the need.

Hope someone finds it useful.

Thanks for posting Garry...nice install. I don't have a 3D printer but I really like the method you've chosen to mount the DRO display. Maybe I'll take a look at machining something similar to that from Delrin.

@Cheese if you want I can print it for you. Just cover the shipping

Hey thank you @festal ...that's very nice. Let me PM you later today. 

@GarryMartin do you remember if supports are needed?  I'm guessing PETG will work fine for this?

Quote from: festal on December 16, 2022, 11:44 AM

@GarryMartin do you remember if supports are needed?  I'm guessing PETG will work fine for this?

PETG definitely fine. Mine are printed in that. I can't remember regarding supports though. Definitely not required for the MFT support, and I don't think so for the bottom. Pretty sure they're needed for the top but I can't remember off the top of my head which orientation I printed in.

Thank you

Well, I finally had the opportunity to fit the Wixey DRO to the CMS.

A huge    to @GarryMartin for the bracket design and the documentation and a huge    to @festal for the actual 3D printing. She's definitely a thing of beauty. 

I'll show the completed/assembled display first and then talk about issues that may or may not be unique to my machine.

The bracket installs from the top, just lightly snapping on to the V-groove extrusion. It can be easily slid along the front edge of the router table and can be moved to either of the extension tables if need be such as when using the sliding table.

I do like the concept, @Cheese, but I think I might prefer to locate the read-out above the CMS' table, say, back next to the Sparktrician-model power switch where I can see it, and where it does not interfere with the sliding table's rail.  Much to be explored in the future, methinks...   

Ya Sparky I agree...all this concept stuff is great but the real "Come to Jesus" time is when you fire up the equipment and actually start to run product through it. Let's see what happens...

Looking good @Cheese! I'm not sure it would interfere with the sliding table at all @Sparktrician and it's very easy to clip on/off if it did interfere with anything for any reason.

Well I think I finally figured this thing out, I mentioned earlier that there was a unique issue with the fit of the Wixey bracket to my CMS aluminum V-extrusion rail.

When @GarryMartin originally designed the Wixey DRO bracket, he designed it for use on a CMS-VL table. On that table the aluminum V-extrusion is open on both ends. On the CMS-GE table, the aluminum V-extrusion is captured between the cast aluminum bracket that holds the 2 legs. This leaves a small area where the the Wixey bracket can contract and that makes it just about impossible to remove the Wixey bracket without using 2 screwdrivers to wedge open the bracket and remove it from the aluminum V-extrusion. It wouldn't take too long before the bracket would start to crack and break. This is what it looks like in photos.

Open style aluminum V-extrusion on CMS-VL.




Aluminum V-extrusion captured between the cast aluminum leg bracket on CMS-GE. With the recessed area highlighted in blue.






The part of the Wixey bracket that got caught in the recess is the small radius lip highlighted in green.




Once I removed the lip with a sharp chisel and a little file work the problem went away. The bracket is now easy to attach...easy to remove.

@Cheese Mine fits fine on my CMS-GE (and even my CS 50 for the heck of it!) but my extrusions are more flush-fitted than yours - I don't have the slight difference in heights you highlighted in blue. The bracket should clip on and off without having to slide it off the ends too; although I could make that a little easier, I was more worried about it being knocked off accidentally than making it very easy to get one and off but I could modify the part to lose the lip or reduce it. If I find some time to take a look, I'll come back to the thread and post an updated model.

Later today I'm going to check to see if I can loosen and realign the leg casting to be flush with the front extrusion.

There are 3 Torx screws on each end that can be loosened and that allows the front aluminum V-groove extrusion to be relocated slightly and more closely align it flush with the corner leg castings. It's not completely flush but both are now within .008" of being flush. 

Willy @Sparktrician this is for you.    I decided to move the DRO to the rear of the table just for giggles and decided I actually like it better in that position. It's completely out of harms way but yet still very visible. A slight modification to the existing metal bracket or maybe just a new metal bracket will take care of everything.    I believe that's where mine will permanently reside.