John,

I've done Dominoes with 5mm stock before: https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/sorting-trays-(5mm-ply)-done-with-df500-4mm-tenons/msg662850/#msg662850

The joinery table will use a shim on the table instead of a shim on the machine, with improved accuracy. The set-up will also be simpler.

Sandy,

The sorting trays are the only project I used 5mm ply on, but I saw the potential of the Veritas joinery table to do similar tasks that require precision and more.

Look what arrived!
From Canada to Australia in only 6 days from ordering. It often takes longer than that within Australia. I was surprised to see how big it was particularly compared to my Carmonius version and speaking of which I'm so glad he gets a royalty from my purchase. He deserves it! Note the 20mm hole in my home made version. That takes an in line clamp for drilling into faces for small box making. The bigger fence on the Veritas version makes this easier but at this stage I'm not willing to drill a 20mm hole into my brand new table.
Quality, accuracy and tolerances as reported by others are great
I'm still trying to work out what are the best most efficient clamps. I've tried the supplied clamps and changed to a lighter spring like Chuck suggested as well as an Incra clamp, ratchet clamp and home made clamps.
What clamps did you find the most suitable Chuck?

John

I thought I'd whip up a quick box, inspired by your box Chuck, to house all the accessories using Kaizen foam. The box is using 4 x 20 dominoes and 12mm MDF. I wasn't game to use 4mm dominoes in a 6mm board.

In terms of results, accuracy and alignment, no difference. Both excellent! Setup and aligning the domino to the fixed fence using a straight edge, no difference. I prefer the way dovetail clamps slide smoothly in their slots but their biggest flaw is that don't swivel 360 deg and you therefore need twice the slots, vertical and horizontal.  The veritas provided clamps are quicker in terms of repeat mortises on the same thickness stock but I wish they would slide more smoothly.

I guess people are asking and I'm asking myself why did I buy the veritas version when I have an equivalent, accurate and fully functioning device. Firstly I use memory sticks instead of the more elegant indexing rod. I made 12 sticks of different lengths that cover most projects. I slide the fence to nearly its correct position and then measure to the appropriate flap on the domino and then grab the nearest stick in length and then slide the fence against the stick. Not efficient but effective. Also I found in some cases I was regretting not making a bigger unit. So I was just about to make a new and improved jig, given I was using it nearly all the time, until I saw the veritas version and I was immediately hooked. The woodpecker version which is too small, would have cost me $1100 USD delivered to Australia (ouch!!) and it offered nothing more in terms of functionality and accuracy but as far as I was concerned its only benefit was not having to use shims but I'm finding them not to be a problem and finally I was tempted to send Carmonius a donation for his brilliant jig but as I said above, buying this unit gave him a royalty

That is fantastic @simonh

Did you design the square from scratch?

What is POM?

How did you mount/register the moving leg of the square upside to mill the relief on the underside?

Have you (can you) post this project at the Carbide forum?

I looked up the name you gave and you’re right, it’s called Delrin over here. Great stuff.

Yes, I designed the square from scratch in Fusion 360.

I use the threaded table on the Nomad with a flattened spoil board mounted to it.

My usual procedure for something like this is to use the origin as the centre hole of the threaded table and the Z origin as the table spoil board. I set up a couple of threaded table jigs on the model, one above and one below the part.



Then, I project a few holes through the model to use as bolting/location points. I lightly double-stick the piece in place and drill the holes to mount the piece to the table with M6 bolts. I then cut the face side.



Then I set up the reverse side in Fusion using the same origin hole on the opposite table. Flip the piece, bolt it down and cut the reverse size. If you got the origin setup good on the Nomad, you should need any changes for the flip. I usually check a couple of X/Y points are where I expect them to be. Otherwise, you might need to shift the X/Y a few thou.



An alternative for a part like this would be to flip the part to re-probe the X/Y for the bottom left of the machined part using the BitZero (manually it is quite hard, with the rounded corner).

Most of the time CNCing parts is thinking through jigs, mounting and where to probe for references.

I'll see about uploading the square to the Nomad forum, although I don't want to upload the entire projector and infringe anyone's design.

Thank you for the illustrated explanation of milling two sides of a complex part. Very helpful.