Author Topic: Replacing the receptacle in your CT  (Read 6119 times)

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Offline Ken Nagrod

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Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« on: October 28, 2011, 05:50 PM »
I've been dealing with loose receptacle terminals on my CT 36 for some time now.  I've heard the groans of people in the past, but figured this issue was resolved on these newer models.  Guess not.  I've been dealing with the cord from a connected tool pulling out or starting to, and I shouldn't have to deal with that while cutting, sanding routing, etc.  It can mess things up when your tool stops in the process of doing something or having to keep an eye on the plug's position is a pain as well.

I called up Lester the other day and told him about it.  Asked if he could describe how to open up the receptacle to squeeze the terminals tighter.  He advised against it because of the little parts within and it could be a hazard/liability issue.  He said he was sending out a replacement.  Got the replacement today and figured I'd post some pictures and info for anyone else that has to do this repair at some point.

You'll need 2 tools for this fix.  If you have a toolie, everything is on board, otherwise get a Torx T-15 driver and a Phillips number 2 driver.

The receptacle cover is pressed onto the receptacle housing over a couple of plastic tabs.  Carefully pull the cover straight out and off by grabbing the "flapper".


It should now look like this.


Here's the bag of replacement parts from Festool.


Torx T-15 for the 4 screws that hold the receptacle into the CT


Here's what the back of the receptacle looks like.


Here's a view of the back of the receptacle from the top, down.


Phillips #2 for the grounding lug.


View of receptacle while still attached to CT.  Noticed postion of the HOT (black) and NEUTRAL (white) wires.  The terminals on the back of the receptacle are color coded to match - HOT (gold), NEUTRAL (silver).


View with wires detached from the receptacle.



I'm sure I'll take the old one apart to fix it, but at least the CT will not be down while doing that.

Thanks Les!

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Offline ScotF

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Re: Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« Reply #1 on: October 29, 2011, 11:26 AM »
Thanks, Ken.  It would be great if you take some pics of fixing the old one too if you get around to it.

Scot

Offline Erik63

  • Posts: 49
Re: Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« Reply #2 on: October 29, 2011, 08:52 PM »
It would be nice if there was a way to repair the receptacle. Even tho its an easy fix, at $40 or so those will add up after a few replacements.
CT 33, CT MIDI, TS 55, TRION, OF1400, DOMINO, RO 150, RO 125, DTS 400, T15+3

Offline Ken Nagrod

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Re: Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2011, 09:16 PM »
I will definitely document the receptacle dismantle and repair for others.

Erik, at least I'm covered by the warranty and the way Festool service has taken care of me in the past, I think they'd probably be willing to send out one after the warranty.  I just wish they'd address this issue, since this part says it's for all of the CT's and there have been enough posted problems.

By the way, I'm surprised no sharp eyed members pointed this out, but the toolie doesn't have a Phillips #2.  It's Pozidrive #2, however it worked since you need very little torque applied to the grounding lug screw.

« Last Edit: October 29, 2011, 09:18 PM by Ken Nagrod »

Offline harry_

  • Posts: 1331
Re: Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2011, 12:36 AM »
I have done the 'squeeze' on my socket for the CT33.. Just never got around to calling Festool to get a replacement while under warranty. Now it is too late, for me, my bad. Pity that they are using the the same or similar JUNK outlet on the newer vacs. I guess it is cheaper to change the outlet in the service stream than it is to change it out in the manufacturing stream.

Since I did the squeeze on the outlet about a year or so ago, it has more grip (still) than it ever had (although I still feel it to be sub-par), without being problematic for insertion of a tool cord.

For sure, I will never pay $40 for a replacement receptacle if it is the same quality as the piece of garbage that was installed at the factory. I'll cut the end off of an extension cord and have it dangle out the hole before that! I am pretty sure Leviton makes OEM outlets for these types of applications.  Maybe Festool should consider having them supply the outlets for the vacs.
Disclaimer: This post is for educational and entertainment purposes only. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead is purely coincidental. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Contents may settle during shipment. Use only as directed. No other warranty expressed or implied. This is not an offer to sell securities. May be too intense for some viewers. No user-serviceable parts inside. Subject to change without notice. One size fits all (very poorly).

Offline Sam Murdoch

  • Posts: 148
Re: Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2011, 10:05 AM »
I e-mailed Festool a year after my warranty had expired and they sent me a free new receptacle. Up until then I had an old 3 prong plug adapter plugged into the receptacle and all my tools worked fine through the adaptor. Finally gave up on it when I left my plug adaptor at the shop & struggled all day on the job site to get my RO125 and Domino to work properly. I have had no issues with the replacement receptacle.

Offline joseph f

  • Posts: 12
Re: Replacing the receptacle in your CT
« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2011, 11:48 PM »
http://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-70000-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B002HWRSA4/ref=sr_1_132?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1322714689&sr=1-132
after having replaced it on my mini i added one of these to both of mine . best part is i have 3 tools plugged in and only change the hose when i switch tools