I don't make a lot of bevel cuts, but I'm making a box with 8" wide boards that require a 45 degree bevel cut. Making a few practice cuts resulted in the cut-off piece going behind the blade and that piece shattered and flew all over the place and the last part of the cut was rough and not suitable for doing miters.  I did keep the blade going full speed all the way through the cut and moved the blade at a slow pace. I then placed a piece of wood between the work piece and the fence so that the cut off piece could not move behind the blade. The cut was better, but the cut-off piece still had some "kick back" just not as severe as without the sacrificial piece of wood.  Near the end of the cut with either method I can feel the saw slow and maybe bind in the wood, not sure how to describe it other than it slows and feels like it is going to kickback.

I can do this cut with 4" stock without the same kickback, so maybe it is related to the width of the piece or maybe I should move this cut to the table saw.  Anyway looking for feedback about how others deal with this.  I have read a few of the previous threads about kickback on the kapex.

The shroud brushes the top of the plates that hold the fence near the middle of the cut and it also brushes the top of saw base after passing the fence plates.  It is a slight "Irish" that does not seem as if it would impede the saw, but, I'll try removing the shroud and see what happens. And, yep, I always wait for the blade to come to a full stop before lifting it off the cut.  Thanks!

Maybe make a zero clearance fence?

Quote from: waho6o9 on January 19, 2022, 08:07 PM

Maybe make a zero clearance fence?


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How is your fence attached to the Kapex fences, or is its?

There's 2 holes in the back of the Kapex fence and  I used screws to hold the plywood in place. 

I had this happen a couple times yesterday doing end cuts at 15 degrees on some shelves I am making from 2" thick x 8" wide walnut.  I had initially setup the cut so that the cutoff piece was above the angled blade and it tended to drop onto the blade as the cut was completed and get flung back.  I flipped the bevel setting to the other side of the saw so that the cutoff piece was under the blade and that eliminated the problem.

@kevinculle , I will try this experiment and hope you will also.  I know it is a weird stretch of mind but...

I would love you to try both of the cuts on scrap material using you non-dominant hand.  My curiosity is if we as wood workers inadvertently apply a side stress despite all of our efforts not to.

Respectfully,

Peter

Quote from: John Russell on January 23, 2022, 04:22 PM

Quote from: waho6o9 on January 19, 2022, 08:07 PM

Maybe make a zero clearance fence?


(Attachment Link)

How is your fence attached to the Kapex fences, or is its?

There's 2 holes in the back of the Kapex fence and  I used screws to hold the plywood in place.

Ah, you attached the wood fence to the Kapex by screwing from the back. I looked at the image closely and could not see any fasteners on the face of your wood fence. Some folks use double sided table to attach similar fences.