@Crazyraceguy thanks for sharing this. I'm only a hobby woodworker, but I'm learning about making things oversize then trimming them to fit either with the track saw or a router.
It looks like the curved piece was cut on a CNC machine, could the off cut from the CNC machine be used to make a support for the guide rail? It should have the same shape curve but as a concave profile.
Regards
Bob
The support for the back side of the rail could very well have been made on a CNC, to fit that radius exactly, but the cut-off (or opposite side of the profile) would not have been useable. These parts are nested together to save material, so it's not like there is a nice triangle with the curve on one side. In practical application, I would probably have done that by just drawing that shape onto a piece of 1/4" MDF, as a template to route from thicker material. In this specific situation, with such a large radius and a raw plywood surface, it was just quicker to tack it in place with a couple of 21 gauge pins. This made it easy to tap around and shim/wedge the gap, to get it square to the edge. After that, I put in a couple of screws to keep it there. It was very solid.
If this had been a more finished surface, a better fitting form (as mentioned above), would have been better. Double sided tape or tape and CA glue work for things like this too.
Yes, the curved lower plate that you see there was cut on a CNC, in the first place. That is one of the parts on the red cart that I posted about this entire build. The kerfed ply panel was made with a computerized beam saw.
This section of the larger wall, was the first one to be skinned on the outside. That is the point of this procedure. To make the entire 4 section unit come out square, the first one has to be square. The others are skinned one by one following that. Maintaining squareness around a radius is done with the skin itself. I build the "stud wall" section, kerf part of the panel, which is square and begin attaching at one end. Once it wraps around the corner and overhangs slightly, it can be trimmed off. Most of the time I would start from the curve and trim off the flat end, but this one has the joint way too close to the beginning of the radius. Starting from there would be far more difficult. "Squareness" is the most important thing with wrapping a radius. Even the slightest variation creates a cone, making further wrapping more difficult, along with attaching to the next section.