Author Topic: Splinter guards  (Read 725 times)

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Offline Chris Cianci

  • Posts: 61
Splinter guards
« on: July 24, 2019, 08:24 AM »
Do you have to change to a new splinter guard each time  you tip the track saw blade to 45 degrees? Or did I do something wrong?

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Offline Peter Halle

  • Global Moderator
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  • Posts: 12122
  • Magnum - My new little boy
Re: Splinter guards
« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2019, 09:07 AM »
You shouldn't have to.  The cut line should be the same.  If it is off enough to be an issue for you then it needs to be adjusted / serviced.


Re: Splinter guards
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2019, 09:32 AM »
I have so many nicks and cuts in my splinter guard that it is just a suggestion at this point haha

Offline Ivan T

  • Posts: 86
  • Tool Rich, Project Poor
Re: Splinter guards
« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2019, 10:48 AM »
I tend to change blades a lot more often than I change splinter guards. My work doesn’t require a new splinter guard for each cut. I found that I can remove the base with the splinter guard still attached on my Carvex  and then change the blade and put the base with the same splinter guard back on while inserting the new blade thru the old hole in the splinter guard a lot quicker and easier than removing the splinter guard each time. I also have started using a marker to put a black line on the splinter guard to show the most forward position of the blade while making a cut that needs to stop at a certain point. I can see the black line better than the blade.

Offline Chris Cianci

  • Posts: 61
Re: Splinter guards
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2019, 08:21 PM »
Great input! Thanks a ton

Offline ear3

  • Posts: 3891
Re: Splinter guards
« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2019, 08:31 PM »
The saws specs are such that the splinter guard shouldn't be cut more when beveling, but I have experienced in the past a tiny amount being removed when cutting 45 degree miters. I've never done a thoeough investigation to see if it happens every single time -- I tend to do most bevel cuts on the table saw, and only really use the track saw for cross cut mitres on longer boards. Could be some error on my part factored in as far as balancing the saw correctly as well, but it has happened often enough that I've noticed it, and where the cuts otherwise come out perfectly  (indicating I didn't lean the saw in such a way as to screw up the angle on the board).

Have other ppls experienced this?
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