Author Topic: How Do I Make an Angled Dado? (Read 2346 times)

deepcreek · « **on:** September 13, 2019, 03:49 PM »

I need to make an angled dado in a table leg to accept a 3/8" panel.

It is set at a 75 degree angle to the face of the leg.

Please note it is actually a stop dado on both ends so I can't use a table saw.

I'm thinking I should cut it with a router but I'm not sure how.

I have a 1010, 1400, and 2200.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Joe

Alex · « **Reply #1 on:** September 13, 2019, 04:00 PM »

Cut a long wedge on the table saw under the proper angle and use it to run the router on.

Just a rough sketch to show the idea.

deepcreek · « **Reply #2 on:** September 13, 2019, 04:07 PM »

I figured a wedge would be part of the solution.

I'm trying to figure out how to use a guide rail with the guide stop adapter unless there's a better way.

The combination of the angle and the narrow stock has me stumped.

Alex · « **Reply #3 on:** September 13, 2019, 04:25 PM »

Make the wedge longer than your leg so it sticks out on both ends, and then you have a way to clamp the guide rail to the wedge.

You can make the wedge stick to the leg with double sided tape. Or clamp it.

derekcohen · « **Reply #4 on:** September 13, 2019, 09:32 PM »

Begin with the side of the leg angled, so that the mortice is square to this side. Rout the mortice. Now saw away the side of the leg to create the angle you want to end with.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Oldwood · « **Reply #5 on:** September 13, 2019, 09:43 PM »

I would build a 3 sided plywood box that the leg would fit into with 1 leg 1/16 longer than the leg width so 1 + 11/16 and the other side long enough to bring the router base to the angle needed to route the mortise.

You can add stops and shims to make the mortise where you need it. A template guide would needed on the bottom of the router. Just a clamp on the side of the box would hold the leg in place.

I hope that makes sense. It would be a lot easier to demonstrate than to explain for me

deepcreek · « **Reply #6 on:** September 13, 2019, 11:00 PM »

Quote from: derekcohen on September 13, 2019, 09:32 PM

Begin with the side of the leg angled, so that the mortice is square to this side. Rout the mortice. Now saw away the side of the leg to create the angle you want to end with.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That would be an straight forward solution if I hadn't already milled the legs to size!

Cheese · « **Reply #7 on:** September 13, 2019, 11:06 PM »

I’d use the MFS, a wedge, a router and then square the corners.

deepcreek · « **Reply #8 on:** September 13, 2019, 11:26 PM »

Quote from: Cheese on September 13, 2019, 11:06 PM

I’d use the MFS, a wedge, a router and then square the corners.

I guess I should have bought an MFS.

I am thinking along the lines of building a template.

Cheese · « **Reply #9 on:** September 13, 2019, 11:45 PM »

Quote from: deepcreek on September 13, 2019, 11:26 PM

I guess I should have bought an MFS.

I am thinking along the lines of building a template.

FWIW...there’s an MFS 400 for sale on the FOG for $275.

I still think your chaps schtik is super cool. I wish I was that creative.

Svar · « **Reply #10 on:** September 14, 2019, 01:20 AM »

Quote from: Cheese on September 13, 2019, 11:06 PM

I’d use the MFS, a wedge, a router and then square the corners.

@Cheese, you are one hardcore MFS can. Someone would ask how to drive a nail and you'll suggest MFS.

I would do what Alex suggested and on a router table. Not necessarily a long wedge, perhaps pair of small ones.

Cheese · « **Reply #11 on:** September 14, 2019, 03:27 AM »

LOL...old habits die hard Svar.

Great alternative thought on the MFS though, a hammer.

Maybe I should purchase that extra MFS 400 after all?

Euclid · « **Reply #12 on:** September 14, 2019, 05:19 AM »

A thousand-and-one things a clever boy can do with an MFS!

Any solution depends, obviously, on what equipment one has access to - and this probably won’t help Joe with his particular arsenal of routers…

But for someone to do this with limited resources… using the three(?) other leg components, or any other spare stock that is also 1.625” thick, there should be enough material upon which to lay a rail/straightedge/guide-of-some-sort (or possibly two, one either side of the dado line); could the dado then be made with a small palm router with a tilting base?

Assuming that any such tilting base would not also be plunging, it would mean beginning with the cutter already inserted into a pre-drilled hole; sounds rather awkward but with some care taken, could that work? My experience with routers is limited, so am curious to know if such a procedure would be advisable, or would it be asking for trouble?

Oldwood · « **Reply #13 on:** September 14, 2019, 07:22 AM »

Here is a sketch of what I was trying to describe. If you make the box long enough you can have the leg reverse in the box to do lefts and rights. The template guide would align the router bit with the mortise and you could put stops on the top of the box for the length of the mortise.

Master Carpenter · « **Reply #14 on:** September 14, 2019, 08:13 AM »

How about a drill to remove most of the waste and a sharp chisel to clean up the mortise. Assuming this is a one off project, I’d have it done with hand tools in about as much time as building a jig. If this is a prototype for production, go ahead and build a jig as others have described.

Cheese · « **Reply #15 on:** September 14, 2019, 09:21 AM »

Quote from: Euclid on September 14, 2019, 05:19 AM

Assuming that any such tilting base would not also be plunging, it would mean beginning with the cutter already inserted into a pre-drilled hole; sounds rather awkward but with some care taken, could that work? My experience with routers is limited, so am curious to know if such a procedure would be advisable, or would it be asking for trouble?

@Euclid I've been down that road and while it is possible I wouldn't recommend it.

Until about 10 years ago Milwaukee never offered a plunge base for their routers so at times I was forced to use the method you've outlined. The drilled hole needs to be substantially larger than the router bit because you can only hold the router in position with one hand while the other hand operates the on/off switch and then immediately the torque of the motor also kicks in. The process can be exciting to say the least.

Euclid · « **Reply #16 on:** September 14, 2019, 09:47 AM »

Thanks Cheese; that all makes sense - especially the 'one-handed' limitation. A foot-switch might be useful (!), but it does sound like a bit of an awkward procedure anyway. There are some things that I'm quite happy to learn my means other than from my own mistakes and experiences!

SRSemenza · « **Reply #17 on:** September 14, 2019, 10:42 AM »

How many of these do you have to do?

Wedge / template set up is probably the best way.

Or just a wedge with the router edge guide instead of guide rail.

Or attach a wedge base to the router base.

Seth

deepcreek · « **Reply #18 on:** September 14, 2019, 12:00 PM »

I have six angled stop dadoes to complete. Two on each side of three legs. I'll post a photo of the table when it's done.

I really appreciate everyone's advice on this. Seriously! Great folks on the FOG.

Several people suggested wedges and that got me thinking in the right direction.

I seriously considered a variation of @Oldwood 's sketch but was already well along on a different template. (See below)

And @Cheese almost had me convinced I needed to pick up an MFS. Hmm. Maybe I should anyway?

I will be using the guide stop adapter with micro adjust (not pictured) on a 1400 router with the support foot (not pictured). An inline toggle clamp will allow me to release the wedge and change out the legs.

Fingers crossed!

Joe

Michael Kellough · « **Reply #19 on:** September 14, 2019, 12:14 PM »

Your solution looks good. If I were doing this I’d rather adapt Oldwood’s idea to the router table. As usual, many ways to get something done.

deepcreek · « **Reply #20 on:** September 14, 2019, 12:35 PM »

I though about the router table but these dadoes start and stop in the middle of the leg to accept decorative panels.

Besides, it always makes me nervous to drop a piece onto a spinning bit on the router table.

SRSemenza · « **Reply #21 on:** September 14, 2019, 03:07 PM »

I like that set up you plan to use. Might want to add some non-slip material or closed ends to the jig to make sure the leg doesn't slide fore and aft at all.

Seth

Oldwood · « **Reply #22 on:** September 14, 2019, 03:20 PM »

I like the system you came up with. It has the advantage of using the track and router adapter to locate the mortise on the leg and that would probably be less trouble than getting the template guide to locate the mortise.

I look forward to seeing the table.

rvieceli · « **Reply #23 on:** September 14, 2019, 03:41 PM »

@deepcreek Joe I like your jig. I'd be tempted to put a stop of some sort on the inside top of the side that has the push clamp on it. It would completely keep the leg from moving up in the jig.

Also I like to flip the guide rail around so that the router hangs off the other side not the splinter strip side. That way the whole router base rides on the work piece and you don't need the foot. Feels more stable to me.

Ron

Sanderxpander · « **Reply #24 on:** September 14, 2019, 05:05 PM »

Wouldn't this be a great application for a domino? Not to route the mortise obviously but to make angled joints in general.

deepcreek · « **Reply #25 on:** September 14, 2019, 08:26 PM »

Interestingly enough, this table will have NINE legs! What was I thinking???

I need to make stop dadoes for decorative panels in six other legs but these are not angled.

Fortunately, I can use the same jig with some minor modifications.

As with the angled dadoes, I will be using the guide stop adapter with micro adjust (not pictured) on a 1400 router with the support foot (not pictured). An inline toggle clamp will allow me to release the ~~wedge~~ square and change out the legs.

derekcohen · « **Reply #26 on:** September 14, 2019, 08:59 PM »

Quote from: deepcreek on September 13, 2019, 11:00 PM

Quote from: derekcohen on September 13, 2019, 09:32 PM
Begin with the side of the leg angled, so that the mortice is square to this side. Rout the mortice. Now saw away the side of the leg to create the angle you want to end with.

Regards from Perth

Derek

That would be an straight forward solution if I hadn't already milled the legs to size!

Then glue on a fillet, and re-shape to square. Now rout, and re-saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

SRSemenza · « **Reply #27 on:** September 15, 2019, 01:48 AM »

Quote from: Sanderxpander on September 14, 2019, 05:05 PM

Wouldn't this be a great application for a domino? Not to route the mortise obviously but to make angled joints in general.

I think the problem would be that it is a 3/8" thick panel. So even with 4mm dominos that would only leave about 2.5mm on each side. Maybe OK for some things but maybe not for legs?

Seth

Sanderxpander · « **Reply #28 on:** September 15, 2019, 02:11 PM »

Ah yeah that makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.

RNEMTP · « **Reply #29 on:** November 24, 2019, 08:00 AM »

Quote from: Sanderxpander on September 15, 2019, 02:11 PM

Ah yeah that makes sense. Thanks for clarifying.

Could still use the domino to make the mortices in the legs. Just plunge and move over and plunge again until you reach the end. a 10mm cutter is just oversized for a 3/8 panel