You would do well to consider the Amana No-File bit. 

Thanks for your help I'm in lancashire
Which utters do you recommend please
I a total novice to edge trimming so any tips and advice would be great thanks rob

You need the Festool 499809 edge banding bit.

Also get the Festool 499749 edge banding scraper (whatever you do don't drop it---bad things happen to it)

Tom

Quote from: tjbnwi on July 26, 2017, 11:08 AM

You need the Festool 499809 edge banding bit.

Also get the Festool 499749 edge banding scraper (whatever you do don't drop it---bad things happen to it)

Tom

thanks for your help tom they look just the job and a great price compared to the festool one
Have you used this yourself? Have you got any tips on using the mfk as I ain't used it yet
I don't mind paying all the extra for the festool bit but it looks basically like it does a similar thing what's your thoughts tom ? Any advice greatly appreciated thanks rob

I believe you meant to quote joiner1970, I linked the Festool bit.

Major difference between the 2 brands---the Festool has multiple cutting edges. One edge gets dull, rotated the cutter.

Best tip I have is be accurate with your set up.

Tom

Robert,

you will find the Wealden cutters as good if not better than the Festool ones. They also do the cutters with removable blades and are much cheaper. Ask around you'll find lots of people in the UK use Wealdens.

Yeah you can pay £96 for the festool one and rotate the cutter every time it goes blunt (x4) or just pay £19.50 for the Wealden cutter. You could buy 4 of them and still have change  .

Thanks everyone for the info, I've just received the festool century 65 & trimming kit so I'm going to be busy setting this up and experimenting with it
My first job is 50m of 2mm oak edging onto.5mm oak veneered mdf I've never done it before so any tips would be appreciated thanks guys rob

Don't tip the router....

Tom

Thanks Peter for your link and fantastic videos

Welcome, Blair.

Do you mean that you cannot fit the bit into the motor unit? You'll need to fit the 8mm collet for that bit.

Or do you mean it won't fit through the aperture in the router base? The website says the OD of the bit is 28mm, so I'd expect it to *just* fit...?

Just to be clear, by vertical base, you mean the one which makes the router itself stand upright, somewhat like a conventional but non-plunging router?

I’m not sure I can be of any more help - but hopefully someone with more knowledge will chip in…

But more generally:

It hadn’t occurred to me that the horizontal base could fitted in that way, but I can foresee a couple of possible problems there…

I’d looked long and hard at the MFK700, but the general advice on the FOG was that it perhaps wasn’t the best choice for my present situation and needs. However, I’ve since found that a friend actually had one and has lent it to me to have a look at (haven’t used it, but I’m already thinking of future projects that might justify it later on!).

Fitting the horizontal base vertically, as it were, does a ready-made straight-edged base that could be run up against a rail or straight edge as a guide, but I’m figuring that the height adjustment won’t work with the base locked in in that way.

Also, if it’s the “1.5 degree” base, I imagine the face of the base will not be at a right angle to he axis of the motor and cutter - which may be good or bad depending on the task at hand.

Also some improvisation would be needed for dust collection.

EDIT:
   "but I’m figuring that the height adjustment won’t work with the base locked in in that way."

I was wrong on that point: I misunderstood the way the base was locked on, the height adjustment still functions. But I think the other caveats apply.