Practice it on some scrap first. There is a bit of a learning curve to it.
You need to be clamped firmly, but be very aware to not distort the track while clamping.
Have enough track on both sides of the cut. You need to be fully plunged before making contact and be sure to follow through fully. I like to have a hand on the base plate as I go.

Thanks for the replies.

The cuts will be 16”, just like the larger cabinet.  The pieces will be easier to handle because they are small.

If I had to make the angle cuts on the table saw, I would change the design.  The only reason this seems possible is because I have the track saw.

I should be able to try this later this week or the beginning of next week.

A lot of good points above. I second especially Neil’s suggestion to make the bevel cut first, bigger than the finished piece, and make the easier cuts referenced from the critical edge.

If you’ve already cut the stock down to 16” you should tape some scraps to both fore and aft edges of the piece and use a longer rail to make the cut so that you get more comfortable with the way you hold the saw before the blade gets to the real piece and the saws is past the piece before you have to start thinking of coming to a stop.

When joining two mitered pieces such that clamping is not possible I use the tape method. But first each miter gets a few swipes with 80 grit abrasive down the middle to remove a little wood so the little bit of pressure the stretched tape provides is concentrated on the edges.

I found this video a while ago. It's for beams, but very helpful for long angle cuts in general.

That is one GREAT video!

OT:
I will probably never understand is why someone destroy that perfectly nice flat ceiling with fake beams ... and then even have them made from perfectly dried and straight oak, so there is no doubt these are fake from the first look. But hey, I guess that is why us Central Europeans will never understand the British-American culture prerogatives. And vice versa.

Over here, when someone wants fake beams for the atmosphere, they would put some some raw construction timber up there and put a non-straight fake wooden ceiling between them. Very specifically done soe the beams and celing are not perfectly straight as that just looks obviously fake, losing the desired ambience. Real load-bearing beams are never perfect in their surface ... and never straight. But hey, if one likes it.

+1 on Birdhunter's remark about making fine furniture with a tracksaw. Every furniture maker -- hobbyist or full-time -- I personally know uses a track saw (if they have one, most don't) to break down sheet goods or rough lumber, not to build furniture pieces.

If the miters are the short ends, the track saw can handle them for sure.

+1 on Birdhunter's remark about making fine furniture with a tracksaw. Every furniture maker -- hobbyist or full-time -- I personally know uses a track saw (if they have one, most don't) to break down sheet goods or rough lumber, not to build furniture pieces.

Then I would advise all those people to just skip Festool, the FS/2 rails system, and most of the TSO pieces this forum is all on.
/s

Paying for the Festool TS series, and more so the FS/2 system accessories, is IMO an uttter waste if one relegates them as "rough cut" tools.

As for the 45-degree bevels, it is perfectly possible to make them with the TS55.
For big pieces, I would argue it is even easier than handling those big pieces on a TS. Vice versa, for small pieces it is definitely easier and also potentialy more accurate to handle them on a (good) table saw. Same for long wide pieces => TS55, very narrow pieces => tables saw.


Now, I am anything but a pro.
Just an IT guy, fiddling with furniture stuff because there are very few (good) cabinetmakers around here (historical reasons).

But about half a year into owning my TSC55, I already figured Makita rails are junk for accuracy and was seeing <0.2mm (0.01") deviation across 2-meter (7') cuts with just the TSC55, an FS/2 rail and a good reference-based pencil mark technique. I challenge anyone getting significantly better results on small table saw.

Sure, it took me a couple tries with shop furniture to figure where my technique needed improvement. But once I got it sorted, I know I would need a $10k slider to get measurably better results. And even then it would be anything but certain.

They do. Most furniture shops I've visited don't have any track saws, especially the older folks'. Two months ago, I went this shop (the guy built not only the shop, but also his house in the 80s) on a huge acreage:
...

And that is absolutely understandable. Actually even optimal, as they already have the tools and the workflow built-up for what they need to do.
Accurate tracksaws were not really a thing just 20 yrs ago. heck, outside the Festool and Maffel "islands", they were not a thing 5 years ago. It is all too easy forgetting that the TSO parallel guides are just a couple years old and the only reasonable tracksaw, besides Festool, were pretty much the Makitas. And that is just 5 yrs, ago (!).

In the same way, many pros who do WW for some time still do not use dust extraction with hand power tools. Yet it does not make using dust extraction on hand tools a bad idea.

Just this week we had a Miss come do some stuff in our community shop. She was doing furniture restorations 10 yrs ago, so was pretty well versed overall, way more than me .. Except, what I completely missed, she had no clue one can work dust-free with wood. So, she did not use any dust extraction when sanding all day ... the whole place was covered in micro-dust, including the computers, 3D printers, you name it. She literally did not consider the possibility, so just completely ignored the vacs and went ahead just wearing a respirator. In one day worth of work, she generated about 2-3 manweeks of cleanup effort. Duh. But it does not means she is a bad craftsman. The stuff she was repairing turned out wonderful.

My point was:
When one has /or intends to/ invest in the Festool saw and rails kit, telling to not use it for what it was purchased for is kinda disingenuous.

Instead, one should be either pointed to not buy it, if strictly wants to just do rough work or should be advised on how to properly use it to actually make it work the way it is suppossed to. Buying expensive precise kit, only to then not take advantage of the precision which is 50% the price, is just not a good strategy.


On topic:
Getting perfect angle cuts from a Festool tracksaw on the FS/2 does require a bit more technique than with a table saw. Or, to be more precise, it required *different* skills to get the results. These are different tools, after all.

But, is it possible ? Definitely!
Is it the better choice? Depends!

Depends heavily on other variables which can skew the optimal solution either way, or even a third way.

A few months ago, I completed a dresser that had a top about 5 feet by 30” all quarter sawn white oak. I thought about using a 45 degree joint top to sides as my “client” didn’t want the top to over hang the sides. I knew the chances of getting perfect bevels was slim so I backed off the idea. Ended up with a 1/8” overhang. The “client” loved the look.

The guy in the video has excellent skill in using the tracksaw. He cuts 14 foot bevels (suitable for the taped miter fold assembly) using a single 2700mm track and no clamps. And the results look good.

I learned quite a bit from that video.

He's using the Freud 14T blade which has a slightly wider kerf than the 2.2 Festool blades. I'm guessing he's committed to Freud blades or do you think he's swapping between Festool and Freud blades and ignoring the slight difference in how his splinter guard is cut?

Not a "furniture shop", but I definitely use my tracksaws as a pro in a cabinet shop. I agree 100% with mino's statement about not using them as designed. I'm sure I have commented on this before with so many YouTube woodworkers doing the break-down with a tracksaw and then make the final cuts with a table saw. Seems silly to me. You can get perfectly usable cuts directly from the TS and just move on.
Using the proper TCG blade, I regularly make glue-seam-ready cuts with a TS. It really is a finish cut tool.