I'm trying to understand what the problem is:

The shaft of the drill bit is 10.06mm in diameter and you chucked it in a 3/8"/10mm chuck and now it doesn't open anymore?

The chuck opens but the drill bit is still stuck/ the jaws don't disengage?

Have you tried countering the chuck when trying to open it? (Put a key in that little hole.)

Kind regards,
Oliver

I'm trying to understand what the problem is:

The shaft of the drill bit is 10.06mm in diameter and you chucked it in a 3/8"/10mm chuck and now it doesn't open anymore?

The chuck opens but the drill bit is still stuck/ the jaws don't disengage?

Have you tried countering the chuck when trying to open it? (Put a key in that little hole.)

Kind regards,
Oliver

The jaws won't disengage. I've never used a chuck like this before, the little hole isn't a hex key it appears to just be a circle....is there another key I should try? I remember when I was a kid my Dad had a corded drill that used a similar chuck, but that was before my time so I'm clueless.

Is it possible that the “little hole” is to insert a round bar like aPhillips screw driver and then twist the upper ring?

Quote from: Alex on January 15, 2021, 01:51 PM

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Already hit it with WD40...I'll destroy the shaft of the bit trying to extract it with pliers, it needs to stay precise for boring and smooth removal through the guides.

A little scratching is not destroying. And it probably is already scratched from inserting it in the chuck. 

Does your bit have a straight shaft?

The way an impact driver works, it's easier to hold the sleeve and the impacts are more likely to loosen it than a regular drill that you can't counter by hand, and just pulls through.

If the other chuck doesn't get a good grip on the shaft of the drill bit, basically what you describe as tear out, means that the jaws slip.

Reasons:

1) Jaws are dirty/oily/packed with debris. Solution: Clean jaws.
2) Shaft of the drill bit is oily. Solution: Clean shaft of drill bit with a solvent that removes oil.
3) The drill bit bites into the material. Solution: Let drill bit get to speed before carefully plunging into the material and use less force while plunging into the material. Lift the drill bit from time to time while drilling each hole to allow the shavings/debris come out.
4) Chuck is worn out/defective or not capable to chuck a 10mm shaft. Solution: Use different drill/driver or replace chuck.

Kind regards,
Oliver

All that said, you can buy the newer UJK 20mm Cutter with Split Stop Collar as spare part: https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/ujk-20mm-cutter-split-stop-collar-for-parf-guide-system/

It would be great if someone could confirm that this drill bit also works with the first version of the Parf Guide.


Kind regards,
Oliver

I'm curious if there are any other adapters I could use to stop the constant re-chucking, but that won't destroy the bit in the process?

Just file/grind 3 flat spots on the bit shank for the chuck to grab. Doesn't have to be deep, just identical and carefully placed.

...
I'm also wondering what the best way will be to cut all these holes as I'm not going to be using the Makita chuck anymore and my Ridgid drill's chuck keeps ripping into the shaft of the bit? Really would like to get my hands on a Mk. 2 boring bit!

What size is the chuck on the Rigid drill?

Quote from: gearhound on January 15, 2021, 02:26 PM

...
I'm also wondering what the best way will be to cut all these holes as I'm not going to be using the Makita chuck anymore and my Ridgid drill's chuck keeps ripping into the shaft of the bit? Really would like to get my hands on a Mk. 2 boring bit!

What size is the chuck on the Rigid drill?

Half Inch

Quote from: gearhound on January 15, 2021, 05:23 PM

...
Half Inch

I’m guessing it’s keyless. Is there a high/low speed selector? Where you could tighten the chuck in low and then change to high for drilling the hole?

Are you using a vacuum to collect chips? Might need air movement to keep the bit cooler and less likely to grab hard.

Yes. I've played around with the speeds of the drill, but it's a big/cumbersome dial so doing it each hole gets tedious. I've decided my best method of attacking this top is doing all the holes I can with the left guide and then clean/sand up the burrs on the bit and switch to the right guide. That updated bit with the 1/4" hex connection is such a huge upgrade...really wishing I had it right now!

Here's where I'm at now. I'm using a 5x5 sheet of baltic birch so I have to keep adjusting the sacrificial piece underneath to prevent crazy tear-out.

@gearhound - have you considered buying the newer UJK Parf Guide Drill - as six point socket2 suggested? - if you do, we have the Parf Dust Port in stock as a separate item, as well.

Why make life more difficult with plywood when MDF or Valchromat machine so much better?
I wonder why you are torturing yourself when clearly superior later version tools are available to you at a reasonable cost

Hans

Seems that new drill is on backorder at TSO and Axminster.

Quote from: Peter Parfitt on January 15, 2021, 04:50 PM

I really do not understand what has gone wrong here - it seems it is an issue with the chuck which I have never used or seen before.

Try tapping it on the blunt end !

Peter

Hi Peter,
I luckily got the bit freed from the chuck with an impact driver. I'm however still trying to come up with a solution for an efficient way to bore out the holes without the 1/4" hex universal fitting on my bit? I'm getting burrs on the shank constantly having to re-chuck for each and every hole I drill. I can see very small scratches inside the boring guide hole from removing a burred bit...I'm hoping it's way too minor to affect the accuracy? It seems the new-er boring bits with the hex fitting are sold out everywhere and I'd like to get this top finished this soon.

Thanks for any help/suggestions.

Cheers,
Matt

Hi Matt

When the original PGS was being developed we had a plain shaft on the 20 mm cutter. Many of the tests were conducted away from my workshop and I remember the drill did not have a quick release chuck. We managed but it was awkward hence my early videos showing the Festool quick release chuck.

Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a Centrotec bit holder that can be mounted in your chuck which would then alllow a quick release onto the 20 mm cutter.

Peter

Hi Oliver @six-point socket II

I knew there was a fix for this. Many thanks.

Peter

@gearhound - have you considered buying the newer UJK Parf Guide Drill - as six point socket2 suggested? - if you do, we have the Parf Dust Port in stock as a separate item, as well.

Why make life more difficult with plywood when MDF or Valchromat machine so much better?
I wonder why you are torturing yourself when clearly superior later version tools are available to you at a reasonable cost

Hans

Hi Hans,
I'd love to be using the Mk. 2 system for sure, but I purchased this original system already and have a hard time justifying spending more to upgrade. I wish there was an option for early adopters to more affordably upgrade to the newer model! When are you expecting it to be back in stock on the TSO site?

I'd like to be using Valchromat for this top as I'm basing the design on Hooked on Wood's build, but I've never seen it available anywhere in Colorado? I decided to use nice baltic birch ply as I've watched a lot of Ron Paulk's videos using the Parf guide in ply and wanted something more durable than the cheap big-box MDF available to me locally.

()




@six-point socket II thanks for all the help, Oliver! That adapter piece is exactly what I'm looking for!

Cheers,
Matt