Take a look at these.
https://www.amazon.com/Static-Nozzle-Adhesive-Applicator-Cartridges/dp/B07XYXBTJJ/ref=asc_df_B07XYXBTJJ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416748813824&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6942762532350388819&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060261&hvtargid=pla-935204164237&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=95471648538&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416748813824&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6942762532350388819&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060261&hvtargid=pla-935204164237

Tom

@squall_line it's about the tips, more accurately, how many you have and how much adhesive you use at any one time.
The adhesive we use for solid surface material (Corian) works exactly the same way. Using a very small amount is rather wasteful, as it takes quite a bit to fill the mixing tube itself, but that's the way it is.
Of course the tips are available separately for it. We get them in bags of 100. The tube is much larger too, (500ml) and can be used many times. It does have an expiration date, but its well over a year.
If you leave the tip on the cartridge, it can harden back into the rest of the tubes. They should be removed and plugged with the original cap. You can continue to use it until it's empty, if you have enough tips.

That small retail package, they probably don't care. They assume you'll use it once and be done with it. It's very similar to "super glue". It comes in tiny packages because it will be hardened in the bottle before you get to use it again, but for commercial applications, it is available in much larger containers too.

Usually 6 month shelf life once open so it's kind of a of moot point for the 'consumer' audience.  Bottles of Quickcure 5 will set you back about 3X than those mixer tubes.  That'd only make sense if your job is small batching over the 6 months.  If you're only using it at most 3 times in 6 months, just get the tubes.

For woodworking, the slower setting glues are supposed to offer greater adhesion.

The theory goes like this:  The slower setting allows the epoxy to flow into and penetrate the pores of the wood (or wood product). That supposedly creates better adhesion. I have never seen any data on it though.

As for cure time, it seems they must measure it differently nowadays. I used to be able to find 30 minute epoxy.  The longest cure time I could find recently was five minute stuff.  But the 5 minute stuff cautions that it does not reach full strength for 24 hours.  So, I suspect some different standard is being used for cure times lately.

Packages will generally list the tensile strength of the cured glue. Slower cure time will equate to higher tensile strength as the chemical reaction between he resin and catalyst (hardener) will be more optimal achieving the higher strength.  This would apply to porous and non porous surfaces.

Personally I've never cared for the mixing type nozzles and much prefer mixing my batch with an awl on card stock. 

Side note, if you want a less viscous consistency while working, heating the mixed glue with a heat gun will make it more runny and allow it to penetrate small gaps.  Heat will reduce the open time so you need to work quickly. I like to spread the glue as best I can then heat after it's on my surface.

Interesting. 

My application was to adhere a 1/2” diameter fiberglass rod in a 1/2” through hole drilled in a Bakelite (billiards) ball.  I added several divots to the interior of the hole using a Dremel tool to allow the epoxy to pool. 

I through drilled because a blind hole would have created a hydraulic pressure forcing the shaft out of the hole. 

The glue up required only an amazingly small amount of glue.  Adhesion has proved to be excellent.  But waste in the mixing tube exceeded the amount of adhesive actually used for the glue up.  So this system was poorly chosen by me.  (I chose it because Loctite was a brand I was familiar with.)

There was absolutely nothing wrong with the material or design.  It simply was not well-suited for my application.  I wanted to raise the awareness of that issue.  (And $4.50 per application seemed rather rich.)

I know it's frustrating to purchase an adhesive and not be able to use the remaining material 2-3 years later, but I've just accepted it as the cost of doing business.

It happens with caulk, epoxy, paint and even drywall mud. How many times have you opened an old tub of USG All Purpose mud and found that most of the remaining stuff in the container is covered with mold? Would you put that stuff on your wall, I wouldn't.

The epoxy costs $5 a tube and if I can only get 2 fixes for that price that's still a great deal. It's certainly better than having to spend $25 for a new item.

I've had this happen with 3M epoxy, Vulcum caulk (expiration date), JB Weld epoxy, GE Silicone, Sika Anchor Fix and Hilti anchor adhesive...and these are some of the best industrial adhesive materials available. I'd dread to think the results obtained with the DAP krap product line.

This is one of those instances where experience is a harsh teacher.

I love the experience is a harsh teacher statement...that's good. 

Is anyone else having a slow response on this website...this stuff seems to take forever to load and refresh.

Me also, I was thinking it was just my computer/connection, apparently not.

I noted the slowness in another thread.  It is getting to the point where I will wait for it to improve before logging on again.

During the depression my grandmother got to the habit of cutting off the moldy parts of cheese and bread and continued to use the rest.

I did not live through that time, and I throw out the moldy cheese and bread.

I would be concerned that the moldy stuff would compromise the rest.

I’ve given up on premixed wallboard mud.  It is invariably too viscous to spread well.  The powder can be mixed to the desired viscosity, keeps better and costs less.

My father once said to me (with no apologies made to George Patton), “Even a dog can learn not to jump up on the stove after he burned his paws the first time. But a wise man learns from other peoples’ mistakes, not from his own.”

I was just offering up my mistake so that others won’t make that same one.

When I went shopping for epoxy, I was hoping to find some “30 minute” version.  Lowes did not have it, nor did Home Depot, nor Amazon.  So I don’t know where that is anymore.  But since the 5 minute version carried a warning that it took 24 hours to achieve full strength, I suspect they are rating the epoxies differently. 

The big advantage of epoxy is that it will cure in the absence of air.  So gluing into deep pockets will cure just fine.  I have found that not to be the case with silicone or styrene based adhesives.  The deep pockets can take huge amounts of time to cure.  Almost as long as an opened, then closed tube of those adhesives. 

As a side note, epoxy is not listed as “waterproof”.  That because part of that definition requires that the “waterproof” glue resist hot water as well as cold.  So if your application is exposed to water that is well below boiling, it is, in effect “waterproof”.   

My father once said to me (with no apologies made to George Patton), “Even a dog can learn not to jump up on the stove after he burned his paws the first time. But a wise man learns from other peoples’ mistakes, not from his own.”

I was just offering up my mistake so that others won’t make that same one.

Not really.  Your original post was a weird swipe at why the mixer existed and consumer 'noobs'.  I and others have explained why.  Don't paint yourself the victim.

This is basically the gallon glue thread that appears all over woodworking forums.  "Only DIY newbies buy 6oz bottles!" with the users chiming in with "Shelf Life!" and then those that respond with "I've been using my 10 yr old glue bottle just fine!"

A wise man not just learns from others' mistakes, but they take the time to understand why it is a mistake and when it is not really one.

Quote from: Packard on August 23, 2023, 10:05 AM

My father once said to me (with no apologies made to George Patton), “Even a dog can learn not to jump up on the stove after he burned his paws the first time. But a wise man learns from other peoples’ mistakes, not from his own.”

I was just offering up my mistake so that others won’t make that same one.

Not really.  Your original post was a weird swipe at why the mixer existed and consumer 'noobs'.  I and others have explained why.  Don't paint yourself the victim.

This is basically the gallon glue thread that appears all over woodworking forums.  "Only DIY newbies buy 6oz bottles!" with the users chiming in with "Shelf Life!" and then those that respond with "I've been using my 10 yr old glue bottle just fine!"

A wise man not just learns from others' mistakes, but they take the time to understand why it is a mistake and when it is not really one.

I just re-read my original post.  I think you are mischaracterizing my post.  I clearly stated that the adhesive worked fine. 

My error in purchasing this epoxy was that no matter how little you use for each application, you only get to use it twice with the included mixing tubes.

For what I intended to use if for, this was a poor choice of adhesives.  I was pointing that out to others for consideration when they purchase epoxy.

The mixing tubes are faster and easier than measuring out the epoxy and the hardener and mixing it on a throw away hard hard surface. 

If I need a large amount of epoxy for a single or two applications, then I would buy this again.  But for smaller jobs, the old fashioned 2-tube version is more economical.