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Author Topic: Splinter Strip replacement  (Read 12642 times)

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Offline WarnerConstCo.

  • Posts: 4162
    • Warner Mill Works
Splinter Strip replacement
« on: March 06, 2010, 07:22 PM »
What in the heck do I use to get that old adhesive off of my rails?

I am trying to put my new 'clear' strips on.

Thanks!!

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Offline Timmy C

  • Posts: 462
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2010, 07:25 PM »
What in the heck do I use to get that old adhesive off of my rails?

I am trying to put my new 'clear' strips on.

Thanks!!

I have used a heat gun with good success.  Loosen it up and it should pull right off.

Timmy

Modified:  I have also used Momma's hair dryer, but it never made it back to the bathroom.  Let's just say, "when momma ain't happy, nobody happy."   [embarassed]
« Last Edit: March 06, 2010, 07:26 PM by Timmy C »

Offline Peter Halle

  • Global Moderator
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  • Posts: 12366
  • Remington Steele - My Third Boy
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2010, 07:27 PM »
I used lacquer thinner.  Then cleaned rail with denatured alcohol.  You could use rubbing alcohol also to get get rid of any residue.

Offline mastercabman

  • Posts: 1857
  • NORFOLK,VA
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2010, 09:49 PM »
YEP,  Lacquer thinner!
I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!

Offline Steve-CO

  • Posts: 787
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #4 on: March 06, 2010, 10:10 PM »
Acetone also works.

Offline Bob Marino

  • Posts: 3241
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2010, 06:53 AM »

  Any and all of above mentioned will work just fine. Whatever's on hand.

 Bob
Former Festool  Dealer since 2002; user well before that!

Offline WarnerConstCo.

  • Posts: 4162
    • Warner Mill Works
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2010, 01:25 PM »
I guess it did say acetone on the back of the box. [big grin]

I got them changed and a really good buzz from the fumes as well.

ericbuggeln

  • Guest
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2010, 03:49 PM »
Goof Off

Offline Forrest Anderson

  • Posts: 1072
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2010, 04:22 PM »
Goof Off

And for the benefit of those members outside the USA who may be wondering what this is about, here's one of the Goof Off products that's being talked about...



More at http://www.goof-off.com/

Forrest

Compiler of the Consolidated List of Festool Links - the place to go for Festool reviews, manuals, brochures and videos!

Offline Festool USA

  • Festool USA Employee
    FOG Administrator
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  • Posts: 8430
    • Festool USA
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2010, 04:24 PM »
All of those work fine.  I use a putty knife to help remove it.  Sedge, our trainer, has a plastic scrapper he got from somewhere.  Not sure where you can find them.  Make sure you dry it well before applying the new strip and after attaching it use a LOT of pressure along the entire length to make sure the adhesive seals well.

Offline festooltim

  • Posts: 332
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2010, 05:10 PM »
I agree put plenty of pressure if you want it to stay because it could come loose on the ends at the worse time.
Quantity is no substitute for Quality

2-mft3's ,  ct22,  ts55,  rotex125,  c12, kapex,  ras115,  65planer,  of1010,  LR32system, trion psb 300 eq,  parrallel guides,    sortainer,  routerbitsystainer,  guide rail acc. kit,  toolie,  t-shirt,  hat,  pen,  saftey glasses.

Offline L2theP

  • Posts: 102
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #11 on: March 14, 2010, 12:17 AM »
i have used a new 1/2" chisel which took the old adhesive beautifully without scraping the aluminum rail, also before installing the new strip i have been told by a festool rep to roll the strip out use a low heat setting on a blow drier and heat the strips while rolled out to help remove the coil effect which in my case caused my new strips to peel at the ends after installation, so if you got the time let the strips "relax" rolled out for a little while and very important not to stretch them while installing. Hope that helps
proud owner of  FESTOOL TS55 saw, ROTEX RO125 FEQ sander, OF 1400 router, Trion PS 300 EQ jigsaw, DOMINO DF 500 Q SET, CT22, ETS 125,  MFT/3, EHL65-plus planer, Kapex miter saw, T15-3 set along with a load of overpriced accessories!!

Offline mastercabman

  • Posts: 1857
  • NORFOLK,VA
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #12 on: March 14, 2010, 08:34 AM »
Well,I just replaced mine yesterday.I peel off the black strip the best i can.Then used a heat gun with a putty knife and removed the real sticky stuff and then used lacquer thinner to clean it up good.
I got the new clear splinter guard.I enrolled it,hang it,and with my heat gun just blowing a little heat to relax the strip.
When it looked pretty straight i put it on the rail and used a J roller.Worked out great!
I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!

Offline proclive

  • Posts: 23
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #13 on: March 14, 2010, 10:07 AM »
Is it possible to reuse the strips and just move them over 1/8 inch? I ask because I used my panther blade once and didn't know at the time, now it doesn't line up with the other blades as well.

Offline Peter Halle

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  • Posts: 12366
  • Remington Steele - My Third Boy
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2010, 10:40 AM »
Mastercabman,

You might want to burnish the newly installed strip from the underside with a piece of wood on the glued areas.  At class they suggested that depending on the size of a j-roller you might not get enough pressure.

Proclive,

Some here have been able to heat up their strips to soften the adhesive, remove, and reapply.  The new clear strips have an adhesive that sticks to the strip better than the old did.  Makes it more likely to stay on rather than separate.  Some have used spray adhesive to remount the black strips, some have used double sided tape, some haven't had the need because they came off perfectly.

Peter

Offline mastercabman

  • Posts: 1857
  • NORFOLK,VA
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2010, 12:28 PM »
Thank Peter. I used the edge of the roller and put most pressure on that contact.After it was install,I tried to peel it off and it did not budge.

As far as reusing the strip,i wouldn't do it.I would be concern about side to side movement.If you look under the rail where the strip goes,there's a ridge that stops the strip to move inward if it does happen.I always make sure that when i replace those strip,it goes against that ridge.I hope you understand what I'm talking about.
Beside,it's not like you are saving a lot of money.
I don't understand!?! I keep cutting it,and it's still too short!

Offline justinmcf

  • Posts: 720
  • Queensland Builder
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2010, 04:54 PM »
i have tried replacing the strip in the past.
i used clear silicone to re-glue the strip.

it worked fine for a month, then the silicone dries out.
my experience has taught me its not worth the effort.
now i buy a new strip.

regards, justin.

Offline proclive

  • Posts: 23
Re: Splinter Strip replacement
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2010, 06:26 PM »
Thanks for the advice guys.