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Author Topic: Festool drills / drivers, Why?  (Read 8464 times)

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Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« on: February 11, 2021, 03:11 PM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

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Offline DeformedTree

  • Posts: 1276
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2021, 03:55 PM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

I can see it if you are 100% festool and have a lot of battery tools, like a user of any other system, but given the price, yeah, it's a hard sell.  As you see the battery tools look to always be the stuff left over on the recon, it shows that a lot of folks aren't looking to jump into that system. No one wants to buy a battery tool from any system for just one tool, buying into a very expensive system for a couple tools, that's a hard sell.  Some of the tools may be very nice, but I don't think folks want that one random battery sitting around.  Lets face it, if Festool cordless used a Festool labeled Milwaukee M18 battery, sales would go crazy.  If Festool had a unique battery tool that I was going to use every day, then yeah, probably not an issue. 

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 7249
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2021, 03:59 PM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.

Offline DeformedTree

  • Posts: 1276
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2021, 04:03 PM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.

I would hope so.  But the question is does it justify the price?   Look at folks all looking for the impact driver, when basically all tool companies make them, so you have them in what ever battery you like, and they are cheap, and will bash a screw in all the same.

How precise do you need a drill?

Offline rj_mccall

  • Posts: 39
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2021, 04:34 PM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.

I would hope so.  But the question is does it justify the price?   Look at folks all looking for the impact driver, when basically all tool companies make them, so you have them in what ever battery you like, and they are cheap, and will bash a screw in all the same.

How precise do you need a drill?

@Bugsysiegals there are plenty of other threads to discuss the various drill offerings. @Alex said it best, their quality is very good.

Back to the Recon tools.


Offline slavi.yordanov

  • Posts: 32
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2021, 11:29 PM »
The Vecturo OSC18 was my first cordless Festool, and it's amazing.

Then I found out about the C18. Let me first say, that the retail price on the set is ridiculous. The Centrotec stuff is completely useless for me. You need to buy into their system of bits (very overpriced) if you don't already have some. It's also not as stable as they claim it to be, maybe a little less runout than a regular 1/4 hex drill/impact.

I mainly bought this drill for drilling in very tight spots (I have a repiping company), and it's perfect for that. I'm able to drill holes, where no other drill before would fit. As far as I'm aware there are no competitors on the US market for this specific use (Bosch has 18V Flexiclick, but I'm not sure the right angle chuck is 1/2"). If you don't need a 1/2" chuck like me, then you have more options in the 12V platforms.

As others have said, the trigger is very precise and the electronic clutch is pretty good. But I don't think it really matters. This thing is pretty heavy with the battery, so I don't know who would use it to screw stuff. I just use my M12 Surge for that. Everything considered, I'm pretty happy with my C18. I wish it had a little more power though.

The CXS for me is pretty outdated, and the battery doesn't work on anything else. I know a lot of people praise it too.

The TID 18 is nice, but nothing special really.

So in conclusion, Festool drills are pretty good, but the only ones worth it to add another battery platform are the C/T18 or the PDC in my opinion. All others have pretty good competitors from all major brands, and if you already have a Makita/Dewalt/Milwaukee batteries it doesn't make sense to buy a Festool.

The new batteries have bluetooth too, which is nice for using them with a TSC55/HKC55/OSC18 or even drills when making pocket holes. I barely use my M18 tools anymore.


Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 2415
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2021, 01:53 AM »
I've used several different models of Festool cordless drills. They were powerful and long-running. But I have zero plans to own any of them. My Bosch and Black & Decker drills (5 in total plus extra affordable aftermarket batteries) serve all my drilling needs. I couldn't feel any difference in ergonomics between mine and the Festool ones that I've had experience with.

I do have two corded drills that are more powerful and long-lasting than any Festool or non-Festool drills.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2021, 02:37 AM by ChuckM »

Online mrB

  • Posts: 832
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2021, 06:34 AM »
Put simply, I use drills every day. So why not have the best? The quality and precision is second to none and I hate most other drills by comparison (mostly talking T18 here)

Lots of People complain about the price and then list the 3 drills they have. . I’d rather just one festool. But I actually have 5 of them  [tongue]

I never recommend them in general cos, sure, any drill will do the job. But I love my T18 every time I grab it.
Also I’m in the festool battery platform.

Each to their own. I don’t mind spending extra for things I use so so often.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2021, 06:36 AM by mrB »
there's nothing like the right tool for the job

Offline pixelated

  • Posts: 257
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2021, 07:46 AM »
I bought a TXS because of the small size and weight primarily, and secondly because of the interchangeable chucks.  At the time, no other makers offered that sort of package.
Its my most-used drill now.

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1606
  • formerly @the_black_tie_diyer - 22/02/21 inactive.
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2021, 10:11 AM »
If you don't get it, there's nothing wrong with that, then they're simply not for you. Move on and buy whatever else floats your boat.

I'm very happy with my Festool drill/drivers (tools), there's not one I would exchange for another make or model. Festool IS the best!

So tired of  [dead horse]

Kind regards,
Oliver
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #10 on: February 12, 2021, 11:06 AM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.
Then the DRC/PDC were pretty unique (alone even?) with its 4-speed gearbox and still are special in that front.

The CSX, a specialist "cabinet installers" tool which no one else really makes - as the market is so small.

The BHC is a really nice tool, not much better than competition, but still really *nice* to use and priced reasonably /yeah a Festool priced reasonably .... /.

Etc. Etc.
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline xedos

  • Posts: 459
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2021, 11:11 PM »
I’m also tired of  [dead horse] from fanboys proclaiming festool drills the best simply because they , themselves, like them or it’s simply a festool. Bugsy asked a legitimate question at the place most likely to have the insight.  To tell him to move on because he doesn’t “get it” at first glance is kinda rude.

Festool’s drill driver offerings more often than not come out at at the bottom of pack when tested independently for run time, capacity, raw power, and compatibility.  They do get favorable marks for ergonomics though.  They have also lagged behind in the not too distant past on brushless offerings and battery tech.  Years ago they almost missed the boat completely on 12v subcompact drills. They were also late to the party on LiIon batteries.  Nice product offerings , some were/are even unique.  But festool is not a slam dunk as a the best drill brand.  Far from it.

Milwaukee has come out with cxs clone that is better in some respects : brushless, more and larger capacity battery options, more interchangeable heads, and the battery works in a hundred + other tools.  But, it falls short of cxs in others : ergonomics, bit storage, and the assinine reverse switch location. 

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1606
  • formerly @the_black_tie_diyer - 22/02/21 inactive.
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2021, 04:20 AM »
All of this has been discussed to exhaustion. Plain and simple.

I'm not rude, I'm tired. Especially of this brand loyalty B/S. I have (power) tools from so many brands, so many different battery platforms - because I buy what fits me, my needs, my wants best. End of story. Drills like the DRC/PDC or drivers like the DWC were or still are best in class for a long time, the DWC still is, because there simply is no comparable product on the market. (Or is there a cordless driver that delivers 4500 RPM and an auto function, where the bit sits idle until pressure is applied and the trigger does not need to be pulled, yet in reverse pulling the trigger will activate it without any pressure needed?)

Are there drills with longer runtime per Ah, higher capacity batteries, "more power", and relying solely on 1/4" accessories. YES. If you want that, there's only one option though: move on.

In regards to that Milwaukee M12 FDDX, yes it has more chucks, yes it stands on a way bigger battery platform, yes it's brushless. I'd still take my CXS over it any day - because it does what I need it to do, it has way better ergonomics, and overall quality is a world apart. But sure, the Milwaukee has more power, brushless motor and comes with more chucks.

And just for the records, I own M12 tools and I'm on the battery platform.

And yes, it's a pity there's not more 12V coming from Festool. (Hence the Milwaukee ownership ...)

Calling me a fanboy is plain and simple silly, because it's not true. I address my complaints & thoughts to where they are being heard and people can actually do something about it.

Has my tone changed and my responses to questions of "brand loyalty". Yes.

Still, I always send my kind regards,
Oliver
« Last Edit: February 13, 2021, 04:41 AM by six-point socket II »
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Online mrB

  • Posts: 832
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2021, 05:24 AM »
And I’m sick of people referring to reviews where people rate festool drills at the bottom because of a load of meaningless tests.

The centrotec, ergonomics and precise control are why I love my festool drills. Couldn’t give two poops about most of the test criteria in these stupid test videos.

The fact that the Festools always score so low is honestly total testament to what a waste of time most online tests are. Call me a fan boy, I couldn’t care less, I have the best dr I’ve ever used by a noticeable margin.

But you have to ask yourself if your current drill could be improved, for you. If you only/mostly drive all screws with impact drivers then you’re probably not the kind of carpenter who will ever appreciate a festool drill. That’s OK, just don’t tell me the f’ing Milwaukee is better, cos it ain’t.
there's nothing like the right tool for the job

Offline Doug S

  • Posts: 530
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #14 on: February 13, 2021, 05:44 AM »
The control I can get with the trigger on my T18 is definitely better than any other drill I have owned, it is a pleasure to use.

But yeah going on drill reviews the most important thing is how many hundred screws it can put in on one charge or how quickly it can put on of those 18" long screws that we all use all the time  [wink]

Offline CeeJay

  • Posts: 259
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2021, 06:25 AM »
I’ve got 5 cordless drills, 1 of which is a Festool CXS. Other 4 are other brands.

Pretty much every time I’m doing any fitting or cabinetry work I pick up the CXS.

It just works, feels, performs great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 845
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2021, 08:40 AM »
@Bugsysiegals  - Try one, and decide for yourself  [smile] I did, and added two C handle Festool drills to my “arsenal” of drills. I’ve been through (Trough work and ownership) ; ELU, DeWalt, Panasonic, Milwaukee, Hitachi (Now Hikoki) and Makita also the odd “Private label” brands.
Panasonic and Makita is the ones that have had the best driver control of all I’ve handled, except Festool.

This comes down to marketing. Especially one brand is very “GOOD” at marketing,
they “SHOUT” TM. I have learned from my background in marketing to be sceptical to brands that shout too much. They need to “PROVE” TM something, keeping your eyes away from what they “DONT” TM want you to see. It’s not that they don’t make good products, they even have gems, but certainly not the whole range.
YouTube “REVIEWS” TM are mostly just a joke as others have mentioned. There are a very few that do fairly thorough tests that cover “ALL ASPECTS” TM...
ANY tester who uses “trigger pumping” techniques should be discarded as a tester who goes through all the aspects that a tester should, as an example. Many just focus on one or two things, and one or two tasks, and most test the drills to what they were NOT designed for.
Anyone with marketing competence would give these “testers” their tools, because they designed the tool to shine in that exact department.. jeeez🙄

Therefore, listen to good craftsmen, PROFFESIONAL sellers who will point out exactly every plus and minus on a tool. Then you’ll learn to separate “reviewers” quite fast [wink]

And most of all, listen to “the silent marketing”
Marketing cost, a lot! And they who do big time are pulling the money to do so from somewhere. Smaller brands rely on the “silent” marketing, and maybe uses the income to actual product improvement instead, cause they build a brand by feedback from professionals and enthusiasts. They don’t care about being present at any big box store at all.

Therefore, test a Festool for yourself, and see what it can do for YOU [wink]

Edit: Inspired by Cheese, here’s a family photo that made its chance by accident while tidying my “new” work space. In addition I’ve got a CXS and a C18. The CXS and smallest of the teals are the most used: (sorry for the clutter, but as I tidy I didn’t want to tip the drills and placed them all the way back)
« Last Edit: February 13, 2021, 10:05 AM by FestitaMakool »
“The Stig” Yes, it is true, at least some part of it..
“If you have an old Land Rover and a fit wife, you’re most likely always busy”

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8166
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #17 on: February 13, 2021, 09:06 AM »
Well for conversation's sake, here's my line-up of cordless drills & drivers...




So the question is, which drill do I use or try to use 90% of the time?

It'd be that small, short blue/black drill in the middle.  [smile]

For the other 10% of the time, I gravitate to the taller blue/black drill or the red drill next to the CXS. Unfortunately, I was using the red drill several weeks ago and the chuck fell out along with the C-clip that retains the chuck which became immediately lost. So, now i have to send it in to Milwaukee for service.  [sad] So, build quality is usually more important than some people think.

The only real improvement needed on the CXS is a brushless motor.

The C 15/18 has the BEST electronic clutch on the market.

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 2415
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #18 on: February 13, 2021, 10:28 AM »
Well for conversation's sake, here's my line-up of cordless drills & drivers...


Wow, that's an impressive line-up, Cheese. Why do you need (want?) so many drills (assuming every one of them is kept in your shop)?

I have only 5, 4 in the shop (image -- you can tell the Bosch drills with the batteries mounted are what I often use in the winter. Other batteries including the spare ones are kept in the house until the spring season returns).

For me, the most important drilling tool is the drill press for precision work. I seldom use screws in my furniture work, and drilling with a cordless drill is mostly for hinges, knobs, cabinetmaker's buttons, etc. I've used Festool drills including the CXS for some assembly work, but frankly, I couldn't justify any of them based on my low usage (not based on budget).

Hey, for some work, my go-to drilling tools are hand-operated. [big grin]...Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills? [tongue] [tongue]

I agree that trying out a tool in person is a good call in addition to reading tool reviews. Before my investment in the Kapex, DF500, and sanders (as well as TS75 and CT26 that were subsequently sold), I had used them for a brief period of time. I've also used the DF700 and decided it isn't the right tool for my work (no, despite what others may say, its weight does matter when I have hundreds of mortises to mill).

P.S. The best-value drill for me is the B&D drill close to the Bosches. Its aftermarket batteries are very affordable; I think I have 3 spare batteries to share between the two B&Ds, totaling 5 batteries for them. They're used from spring to fall, and winter if the Bosches run out of juice.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2021, 10:57 AM by ChuckM »

Online Yardbird

  • Posts: 114
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #19 on: February 13, 2021, 11:47 AM »
..Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

Festool does not but Bridge City Tools makes a nifty bit and brace type tool to set screws.  It looks like a cute little tool until you look at the price. 

Offline SRSemenza

  • Global Moderator
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  • Posts: 9532
  • Finger Lakes Region, NY State , USA
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #20 on: February 13, 2021, 12:09 PM »
..Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

Festool does not but Bridge City Tools makes a nifty bit and brace type tool to set screws.  It looks like a cute little tool until you look at the price.

These have the best run time of anything!  You just have to keep pumping fuel into the operator.  Precision varies a lot though depending on the operator.   [big grin]


Seth

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 2415
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #21 on: February 13, 2021, 12:16 PM »
..Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

Festool does not but Bridge City Tools makes a nifty bit and brace type tool to set screws.  It looks like a cute little tool until you look at the price.

This one?: https://bridgecitytools.com/products/pb-2-palm-brace

Mind you, the price of $229 (brace only) is already set low because all BCT tools are made by Harvey. If the set had been designed and released in the pre-Harvey days, the price tag would have been a lot higher. [eek]

Offline FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 845
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #22 on: February 13, 2021, 03:15 PM »
..Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

Festool does not but Bridge City Tools makes a nifty bit and brace type tool to set screws.  It looks like a cute little tool until you look at the price.

These have the best run time of anything!  You just have to keep pumping fuel into the operator.  Precision varies a lot though depending on the operator.   [big grin]


Seth

Not to mention the low end torque you get, tirelessly winding at very low speed. The speed may vary by the fuel injected [big grin]

I’d like one again, had but lost one. Still it’s kind of like hand sawing and hand planing. It’s the feeling of working with wood at a closer level. I’d pass on the Bridge City though, the price is, how should I say, quite calming [blink]
“The Stig” Yes, it is true, at least some part of it..
“If you have an old Land Rover and a fit wife, you’re most likely always busy”

Offline mike_aa

  • Posts: 1206
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #23 on: February 13, 2021, 06:05 PM »
If anyone is interested in Bridge City Tools, sign up for their email list.  They often have sales and I've seen the price for that brace drop below $200.

Mike A.

Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #24 on: February 13, 2021, 07:48 PM »
Hey guys, thanks for sharing specific examples of why these are worthwhile for you.  I decided to stimulate the economy today and pickup a reconditioned CXS.

I figured I’d try it out and if I’m just as happy with my M12 1/4” impact I’ll sell it and put the money towards the VAC SYS which is next on my list ... at least I’ll know I tried it but hey ... maybe I’ll really like it!

Online Crazyraceguy

  • Posts: 226
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #25 on: February 13, 2021, 07:53 PM »
For drills and impact drivers, I have been a Makita user since the LXT system was first introduced. That first set was 3ah. It included the impact driver and 1/2" hammer drill, as well as circular saw, and the obligatory light. It also had a voucher for a recip saw that shipped separately after sending it in.
The impact driver was so much better than anything else available at that time ('05). Whe the more homeowner driven white version came out sometime later, it came with smaller (lighter) 1.5ah batteries and an non-hammer drill that was quite a bit smaller too.
I swapped the 1.5ah batteries to the impacts and the bigger batteries to the drills, almost never using the hammer drill. It really only came out for big bits, like hole saws. At that time I also used the 10.8v Bosch pocket driver and drill. As the main guy in the assembly/up-fit department of a cabinet shop, I used then all, with specific bits, every day.
When I moved up to the custom department, a few of them got quite a bit less use. So I sold off all of the Bosch stuff to eliminate the battery platform, but it left me w/o a right angle drill.
That was my introduction to the CXS. It covered all of the bases. It is small, light, Centrotec precise, and could do right angle with a drill chuck or not.
When I had to replace everything due to a fire in Aug of '19, I went back to as close as I could to the same set-up. The white drill and driver were no longer available, so I went for the compact brushless (black) and the regular green pairs, along with the trusty CXS. I never repurchased the entire Makita combo kit because the TS55 was joining the team at that time.
The only other Makita 18v tools I have are a couple of routers.
All of that to say, I have what works best for me and how I use it. That can, and usually does, change over time. I experimented with Craftsman and Rigid before discovering the Makita LXT stuff, years ago and was fortunate enough to be in a shop situation where I could sell them on for enough to make it feasible to upgrade. I have no interest in changing my primary drills/drivers, but I'm definitely sticking with the CXS too, it is just so versatile and ergonomic.  It requires two different batteries/chargers but worth it.
CSX
DF500 + assortment set
PS420 + Base kit
OF1010
OF1400
MFK700
TS55, FS1080, FS1400 holey, FS1900, FS3000
CT26E + Workshop cleaning set
RO90
RO125
ETS EC 125
RAS115
ETS 125 (2)

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #26 on: February 13, 2021, 11:12 PM »
I’m also tired of  [dead horse] from fanboys proclaiming festool drills the best simply because they , themselves, like them or it’s simply a festool. Bugsy asked a legitimate question at the place most likely to have the insight.  To tell him to move on because he doesn’t “get it” at first glance is kinda rude.
It would be nice of you to avoid the strawman production. They are piling up over here.

Pretty much no one said the Festool products are "the best" here. To begin with, "best at what ?".

Is the CXS the most controlable small driver on the market. Absolutely.
Is it the most powerful? No way.
Most cost-effective? No way.
Most <insert random quantitative property>? Most likely not.

For someone who rates the controlability above all, it can be the best tool for the job.

This is why we have different manufacturers catering to different needs. It is called a market.

One can compete on power, on price, on battery platforms.
Or one can compete by laser-focusing on a specific property which no one focuses (so much) on and create "a market for oneself" like Festool /and Apple, and many others/.

If people fit onto that demographic, it means they often naturally align with the priorities of the company. Then, given it is often the only company laser-focusing on their specific needs, they may even give the company some slack when it messes up..

This is natural. If there is no other (or very few) company which matches ones philosophy, one WANTS the company to succeed. As a successful company means more products which will make the person smile.

It is also natural that people will not give such slack to the "main market" companies. Those are not unique, their products are generally interchangeable. So there is no practical benefit for the customer for either company to succeed. Mainstream products will still be available to buy regardless.

But take Festool. The RAS is no longer produced and NO ONE ELSE has respective product like it on the market. This means "Festool not succeed means I cannot buy the tool at all". So naturally, I would care for that not happening.

I would not care for a mass market product like that - as there is no risk I will no longer be able to buy a casual power drill regardless if Milwaukee went out of business. Most likely I would not be able to buy "CXS analogue" if Festool stopped making it. A fundamentally different scenario.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2021, 11:31 PM by mino »
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Online PreferrablyWood

  • Posts: 953
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #27 on: February 14, 2021, 03:05 AM »
I use mostly the PDC. I have the Centrotec, Depth stop, Jacobs Chuck and th 3/8 square socket driver.

I use the CXS for small drilling jobs, The BHC for drilling in brick. The compatibility of batteries with the HKC 55, Carvex, Vecturo, Ti 15 make it very economical til maintain a battery availability 2 15v 5 18 v 3 chargers they all work well after many years of use.

I'll upgrade the PDC to the newly announced Successor.

I hate the raygun look of many of the other drills form Makita colours on th Dewalt blindingly ugly, the Milwaukee red gives me a headache..

So the Festool all feel good in the hand and look great. Adult tools should all look like this.

TS 55 R EBQ, Vecturo OSC, BHC SDS, RO 150, 850 HL E Planer, MFS 400x2, MFS extensions MFS VB 700 x 1 MFS VB 1000 x 2 . CMS GE, OF 2200, CMS OF+ CMS TS 75 insert modules. SYS-MFT Fixing-Set, 
Festool 18V HKC 55, TI 15, CXS 2.6 Ah version, RO 90 DX, PDC 18/4 plus   TS 75 EBQ, PSC 420, OF 1010, RS 300 EQ, CTL Midi, MFT 3

Offline JimH2

  • Posts: 1023
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #28 on: February 16, 2021, 01:01 PM »
I have quite a few Festool drills and will say there is nothing I have run across that is as precise. Most importantly I have drills from 2006 and 2008 that are still fully functional and used regularly. I also have newer ones. All I have done on the old ones is replace the batteries.

Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #29 on: February 16, 2021, 01:38 PM »
For those of you with Festool and other brand cordless tools ... do you buy Centrotec bits or an adapter so you use all your existing 1/4” bits?

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 7249
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #30 on: February 16, 2021, 01:45 PM »
For those of you with Festool and other brand cordless tools ... do you buy Centrotec bits or an adapter so you use all your existing 1/4” bits?

Both. Whatever I need. Or come across.

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1606
  • formerly @the_black_tie_diyer - 22/02/21 inactive.
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #31 on: February 16, 2021, 01:52 PM »
I went "all in" with Centrotec from the beginning, so I use mostly that with my Festool drill/drivers. But I do have an enormous selection of 1/4" hex shank stuff as well.

While I use the locking bit-holder to allow use of 1/4" hex bits in my Festool drill/drivers, I do not use the Centrotec/FastFix adapter on other manufacturer's drill/drivers, except for the AEG in my drill stand/drill press.


Kind regards,
Oliver 
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Offline DeformedTree

  • Posts: 1276
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #32 on: February 16, 2021, 02:02 PM »
But take Festool. The RAS is no longer produced and NO ONE ELSE has respective product like it on the market. This means "Festool not succeed means I cannot buy the tool at all". So naturally, I would care for that not happening.

I would not care for a mass market product like that - as there is no risk I will no longer be able to buy a casual power drill regardless if Milwaukee went out of business. Most likely I would not be able to buy "CXS analogue" if Festool stopped making it. A fundamentally different scenario.

So I agree with you, but this is also something that varies by country.  In the US, you basically have the mass market tools, and then a niche of Festool, and a niche in the niche of Mafell.  All the Festool stuff is already hard to get/niche/not available here to start.  Tools that were offered, just go away (folks could create a long list), or just were never offered.  So with that, buying anything Festool becomes a questionable move, as you don't know when the rug will be pulled out.  Like you say, if something goes away, and you just go to another brand, then not a big deal, but here, Festool can be the only brand with a tool of a type out there.  Buying anything Festool is a risk.  In Europe, there is basically no risk of the tool just going away regionally there, but still be around elsewhere (CMS being the only real strange story). And if a tool goes away, you have such a large install base of Festool stuff, you're not left with a freak tool. And then you have manufactures of similar stuff to Festool, which either don't exist here, or they sell just a tiny portion of their stuff here.  Batteries will always make things harder.  The good news it the tool is now global verses corded, the bad news is you have a battery system, so tossing it for something else is never fun.   For those who use their tools every day (professionals), regular battery/tool replacement might just be normal. But for those who are hobbiest, it becomes a bigger issue.   You see in the US where Milwaukee, dewalt have branched out to things like yard tools and everything else one can think of, so folks can maximize battery usage of those systems.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2021, 04:06 PM by DeformedTree »

Offline pixelated

  • Posts: 257
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #33 on: February 16, 2021, 03:52 PM »
I have a few Centrotec drill bits, mainly so I can use them in the Festool drill's quick change chuck. To me, that works better than 1/4" drive drill bits in any 1/4" adapter.

For driver bits, most often I use 1/4 bits in a Centrotec adaptor. I do have a selection of 50mm Centrotec driver bits and a long Philips to use when the situation fits.

Offline gunnyr

  • Posts: 279
    • Compass Custom Creations
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #34 on: February 16, 2021, 04:20 PM »
I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

For me it is because of better quality and ergonomics.  I make no claim to quantify.  I own drills and drivers from DeWalt, Milwaukee and Festool. My Milwaukee Surge is my daily workhorse.  Although I own 2 CSX's my go to light drill is my Milwaukee 4 in 1, followed closely by my CSX.  For cabinet assembly I choose the CSX.  For heavy drilling, my Festool PDC 18, no question. 

The Festool drills just feel better in my hands.  I want to own tools I enjoy using.  Adding new battery platforms is not a real concern for me.

Given that these tools will last MANY years, price is not an overriding factor.  If it were price alone it be at Harbor Freight.

Like others have said; no need to hate, just don't buy.  I don't hate Makita but I don't own any either.  I came close to buying their cordless router several times and still might buy one (after all it comes in a Systainer!)
Semper Fi,
Jeff

TS 55 REQ|HKC 55|PSB 420|DF 500|ETS EC 125/3 EQ|ETS 150/3|ETSC 125|DTSC 400|RO 90|RO 150|OF 1400|MFK 700|LR 32|MFS 400/700|CXS (2)|PDC 18|DWC 18-4500|CT MIDI|CT 26|CT 48|MFT/3 (2)|VAC SYS-SET|STL 450|DUO-SET|SYSLITE KAL II
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Online PreferrablyWood

  • Posts: 953
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #35 on: February 16, 2021, 05:21 PM »
I'm happy to have a lot of Centrotec bits. It's very nice when switching from drilling to screwing. The quality is high in the Zobo bits, Steel twist bits, brad point and stone bits. When I need to use non centrotec bits I use the hex bit driver with centrotec shaft. The Jacobs chuck works good enough for non centrotec stuff. The square 3/8 is great for driving hex head bolts.. So it's all good here.

Need to replace the 5mm bradpoint bit, that will be expensive in Centrotec as brandpoint bits aren't replaceable to the centrotec integrated holder as the metal twist bits are.
TS 55 R EBQ, Vecturo OSC, BHC SDS, RO 150, 850 HL E Planer, MFS 400x2, MFS extensions MFS VB 700 x 1 MFS VB 1000 x 2 . CMS GE, OF 2200, CMS OF+ CMS TS 75 insert modules. SYS-MFT Fixing-Set, 
Festool 18V HKC 55, TI 15, CXS 2.6 Ah version, RO 90 DX, PDC 18/4 plus   TS 75 EBQ, PSC 420, OF 1010, RS 300 EQ, CTL Midi, MFT 3

Offline Imemiter

  • Posts: 138
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #36 on: February 16, 2021, 06:40 PM »
For those of you with Festool and other brand cordless tools ... do you buy Centrotec bits or an adapter so you use all your existing 1/4” bits?

My CSX came with a magnetic 1/4" adapter. But I spent probably $200 picking up Centrotec bits from Festool and Snappy. Maybe a little more than that actually... The Snappy sets are good kit, imo. The drill set is perfectly fine, if Imperial. And the countersinks and center (Vix) bits are serviceable. On top of that I've tried to get only the bits I'm using regularly - Phillips and Pozi 2&3s, 1&2 Robertsons, a few Torx. Lately I've been doing a lot of door and cabinet hardware and it's been great moving from job to job with just the CSX and the few five or six bits I need.     
CSX, TID 18, HKC 55, OSC 18, OF 1010, Domino XL, DTS 400, ETS 125, RAS 115, LR32, CTSys, CTMidi, CT-VA-20

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #37 on: February 16, 2021, 06:48 PM »
For those of you with Festool and other brand cordless tools ... do you buy Centrotec bits or an adapter so you use all your existing 1/4” bits?
Since bought my C12 I actually do not use the Centrotec bits.

But I DO use all my Centrotec chucks with bit holders in each for the various bits I swap on a project. I find the chuck-with-bit easier to handle than individual bits.

Normally, I would have 2 drills around, and in between them 3 Centrotec chucks and 2 Jacobs chucks pre-filled with tools in them I use/need for the given job.

So, both. I do not use the Centrotec *bits* but take massive advantage of the Centrotec *system* all the time.

I believe the strength of Centrotec for tools is really in the specialist bits - like Zobo and other - while for casual "consumable" bits the CT chuck + holder are a very nice combo. It. Just. Works.TM

Once thing I will say - if you have only one drill having a couple spare Centrotec chucks and one or even two spare Jacobs chucks is gold.
Having several Jacobs chucks ready with the needed bits in them is immensely practical even with one drill. They stand very stably on any surface and having 2mm or 3 mm bits in them is so much better.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2021, 06:50 PM by mino »
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline Lincoln

  • Posts: 105
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #38 on: February 16, 2021, 07:19 PM »
I like the CXS, does everything it should and is super comfortable to use. I think the battery situation is a bit weird, but doesn't worry me that much. Great drill/driver for cabinet work, door hardware etc.
My go to cordless platform is Fein - build quality is superb, batteries are fantastic. They don't have a huge range, but cover enough to keep me happy.
One platform will never be enough. I currently run - Fein, Festool, Hikoki and Mafell.
If I had Festool saws, instead of Mafell, I'd probably use their drills as well.

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 904
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #39 on: February 17, 2021, 08:31 AM »
I had a hard time swallowing the price for the CXS. I'm a Milwaukee guy for cordless drills etc. At the time their installer tool wasn't available. Had it been I probably would've gotten it instead. But you know what? I love the CXS. I use it all the time. I find excuses to use it when a more powerful drill would probably be better.

I just picked up the TID 18 set. Not because I particularly wanted the TID 18 but because it was the cheapest path to getting into the 18V batteries for the Vecturo. It's a nice enough impact, feels good in the hand. Had I not needed the 18V batteries, I would've gotten a Milwaukee Surge instead.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Josh2

  • Posts: 100
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #40 on: February 17, 2021, 08:52 AM »
I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.


Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 904
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #41 on: February 17, 2021, 09:07 AM »
I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.

@Josh2 Yes, it's the cheapest. I got the recon as well. IIRC they were about $40 difference. I figure if I'm going to get a T18 I'm going to want the one with the interchangeable chucks which is why I opted for the impact instead.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 440
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #42 on: February 17, 2021, 09:44 AM »
I just picked up the TID 18 set. Not because I particularly wanted the TID 18 but because it was the cheapest path to getting into the 18V batteries for the Vecturo. It's a nice enough impact, feels good in the hand. Had I not needed the 18V batteries, I would've gotten a Milwaukee Surge instead.

@DynaGlide I am following that same thought process.  I have the Vecturo coming this week and I wanted another drill with same battery config.  I still don't know enough about the features of each drill.  The only for sure thing is I don't need a noisy hammer drill.  Can you tell me which T18 set you got?  I also saw the T 18 E but I don't know what the E stands for.  I do have simple drilling needs, nothing special but this set below looks to be a good choice for me.

Festool 576494 Screw&drill Set TID18 HPC 4,0I-Set T18

Offline DynaGlide

  • Posts: 904
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #43 on: February 17, 2021, 09:47 AM »
@Rick Herrick The TID 18 is their noisy impact driver. Probably what you want to avoid. That's what I bought.

The T18 E stands for Easy IIRC, it has nice features like electronic clutch but sacrifices the ability to put different chucks, like the CXS or the T18 +3, for example. It has a fixed jacobs chuck.
Instagram @matts.garage

Offline zachjowi

  • Posts: 23
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #44 on: February 17, 2021, 10:25 AM »
I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.

I'd be interested in that drill if you sell it.

Offline JeremyH.

  • Posts: 251
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #45 on: February 17, 2021, 11:21 AM »
CXS is the best. It's the best tool purchase I've made. The ergonomics, quality, long lasting, and accessories make it amazing. The clutch system is a dream for when you need to do light work (other drills just plain suck at that).

It's way stronger than you think it is... I've driven plenty of long screws into studs and such. Short of decking there isn't really any reason why it couldn't be anyone's number one drill.

I've debated grabbing Makita's smaller brushless black combo several times, or even a Festool combo but... I just haven't required having anything else yet. Going towards 6 years now (I don't even like saying that, but it's true).
« Last Edit: February 18, 2021, 07:33 AM by JeremyH. »
CXS;RO150;CT26e  KSS400;MT55cc;DDF 40

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 440
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #46 on: February 17, 2021, 01:21 PM »
I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries

@Josh2 Hey Josh, on that T18 E, can you tell me if this model has a clutch? 

Offline Josh2

  • Posts: 100
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #47 on: February 17, 2021, 01:26 PM »
I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries

@Josh2 Hey Josh, on that T18 E, can you tell me if this model has a clutch?

It has the dial in the back for electronic torque control (not sure if you still call it clutch). No traditional clutch in the front. I think that is the same as the standard T18+3. Does that answer your question?

Offline Josh2

  • Posts: 100
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #48 on: February 17, 2021, 01:27 PM »
I am tempted to keep it but will DM if I change my mind over the next 3 days.

I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.

I'd be interested in that drill if you sell it.

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 440
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #49 on: February 17, 2021, 01:39 PM »

It has the dial in the back for electronic torque control (not sure if you still call it clutch). No traditional clutch in the front. I think that is the same as the standard T18+3. Does that answer your question?

Thanks Josh.  I have to admit my lack of skill in this area (most areas I am finding out...).  I don't know if clutch is the proper term but what I am looking for is the function to change a dial so that when the screw gets so far down (flush preferable), it stops driving it anymore and makes different noise.

I hope the T 18 E has this because for $300 I get 2 more batteries and, essentially, another drill and systainer for $60 since the batteries list at $120 a piece.  But even if it doesn't, I still have plenty of drills that do.

Offline Josh2

  • Posts: 100
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #50 on: February 17, 2021, 02:13 PM »
Yes, the T18 E has that functionality. What you are talking is the drill clutch to control the torque. On most drills, it's behind the chuck in the front of the drill. On the T18 it's a small dial on the back of the drill and is arguably (more precise, you can switch between drilling and driving without changing the setting).

Maybe there is T18 E left on the recon sales, which would bring the price down to about $240 but reduce warranty to 1 year.


It has the dial in the back for electronic torque control (not sure if you still call it clutch). No traditional clutch in the front. I think that is the same as the standard T18+3. Does that answer your question?

Thanks Josh.  I have to admit my lack of skill in this area (most areas I am finding out...).  I don't know if clutch is the proper term but what I am looking for is the function to change a dial so that when the screw gets so far down (flush preferable), it stops driving it anymore and makes different noise.

I hope the T 18 E has this because for $300 I get 2 more batteries and, essentially, another drill and systainer for $60 since the batteries list at $120 a piece.  But even if it doesn't, I still have plenty of drills that do.

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 440
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #51 on: February 17, 2021, 02:30 PM »
Yes, the T18 E has that functionality. What you are talking is the drill clutch to control the torque. On most drills, it's behind the chuck in the front of the drill. On the T18 it's a small dial on the back of the drill and is arguably (more precise, you can switch between drilling and driving without changing the setting).

Maybe there is T18 E left on the recon sales, which would bring the price down to about $240 but reduce warranty to 1 year.

Hi Josh, thanks for checking that, and the explanation, very helpful.  I think I am one of the few that doesn't jump on the recon site.  For the extra $60 I can get my 30 days, 3 years and its brand new.  Thanks for your help.

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #52 on: February 17, 2021, 05:52 PM »

It has the dial in the back for electronic torque control (not sure if you still call it clutch). No traditional clutch in the front. I think that is the same as the standard T18+3. Does that answer your question?

Thanks Josh.  I have to admit my lack of skill in this area (most areas I am finding out...).  I don't know if clutch is the proper term but what I am looking for is the function to change a dial so that when the screw gets so far down (flush preferable), it stops driving it anymore and makes different noise.

I hope the T 18 E has this because for $300 I get 2 more batteries and, essentially, another drill and systainer for $60 since the batteries list at $120 a piece.  But even if it doesn't, I still have plenty of drills that do.
Get the T18.
Scratch this.
Just checked the US prices. The  T18E Plus option is very much a "tool for free" scenario. Impossible to argue against that.

original:
Not for Centrotec per se. But for getting 2 QUICK-change chucks. One for screw bits, Jacobs for drill bits. This alone is well worth the price difference.

You may decide to expand on that or not. But it is well worth the price difference between 18e and "18 proper". Worst case, you can still sell it along ...
« Last Edit: February 17, 2021, 06:19 PM by mino »
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 799
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #53 on: February 18, 2021, 11:35 AM »
The trigger on the Festool drills is just very nice. If you want a trigger that starts at 1000 rpm you can always buy a Dewalt drill..

Offline Rick Herrick

  • Posts: 440
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #54 on: February 18, 2021, 11:47 AM »
I ordered the T 18 E yesterday and found the Festool Live video that was specifically for this drill.  Answered a lot of questions, glad I found it.


Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #55 on: February 19, 2021, 04:01 PM »
Well, I received my Recon CXS Compact Cordless Drill Set today.  First impressions ...

  • Trigger Control - Even with gentle trigger application my M12 kicks on pretty high RPM.  The CXS has such fine low RPM control I doubt I'll ever need to hand fasten anything again!
  • Ergonomics - It's comfortable and well balanced.  I had a hard time keeping the Parf Guide Drill Jig level on top of the rule when drilling my MFT top with M12 drill.  I suspect the light weight and balance of the CXS will eliminate this issue altogether even allowing to more easily drill perpendicular holes.
  • Clutch - It feels good but it's to early to tell if is superior here also.
  • Centrotec - I'm not sure how much better this is but most important for me is that the included adapter works with 1/4" bits.  You can use Centrotec and 1/4" without any additional purchase!
  • Magnet - I never have a flat head when I need one so magnetic bit storage is great but more importantly the Centrotec adapter magnetizes all my non magnetized bits!

I never thought I'd buy any Festool cordless drill/impacts but am thankful to all of you for the positive feedback on the CXS ... it's such a nice drill I'm ready to take it around the house just looking for something to adjust or use it on even if it doesn't need it!

Are there any tips/sets you recommend I pickup for it?

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8166
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #56 on: February 19, 2021, 04:12 PM »
Are there any tips/sets you recommend I pickup for it?

Make sure you have the higher 2.6 Ah battery as the original 1.5 Ah battery goes away pretty quickly.

Offline FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 845
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #57 on: February 19, 2021, 04:18 PM »
Congrats Bugsysiegals!

Your first impressions is very much what most think when using such thoughtfully built tool.
A drill just spins a shaft, so really any can do. But from there and to a drill that has many fantastic qualities, such as comfort, a superbly sensitive trigger, gearbox that suits extremely well, a motor that’s quiet and on top of that a very fine tuned controller for the torque control.
Add to that a very light and compact package, that fits most hands.

Did you get the kit with the angle attachment?
The bit holder it comes with is very good, there are some longer ones, as well as the locking bit holder you might add later.
“The Stig” Yes, it is true, at least some part of it..
“If you have an old Land Rover and a fit wife, you’re most likely always busy”

Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #58 on: February 19, 2021, 04:23 PM »
Unless somebody opened the batteries I've two 2.6 batteries.  Thanks!

Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #59 on: February 19, 2021, 04:29 PM »
Congrats Bugsysiegals!

Your first impressions is very much what most think when using such thoughtfully built tool.
A drill just spins a shaft, so really any can do. But from there and to a drill that has many fantastic qualities, such as comfort, a superbly sensitive trigger, gearbox that suits extremely well, a motor that’s quiet and on top of that a very fine tuned controller for the torque control.
Add to that a very light and compact package, that fits most hands.

Did you get the kit with the angle attachment?
The bit holder it comes with is very good, there are some longer ones, as well as the locking bit holder you might add later.

Thanks, and I did get the kit with the angle attachment ... I didn't think it would be very useful for me until I was tightening some drawer handles and left the adapter downstairs which meant I had to unload the drawers ... next time I'm on this task I know to grab it!

Are the pieces you mention Festool or aftermarket products?

Offline FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 845
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #60 on: February 19, 2021, 06:24 PM »
Yes, they are aftermarket accessories, there’s a long hex 1/4” bit holder, essentially the same bit holder you got with the kit, only longer. (2 differs sizes in fact, in addition to the standard length you’ve got)
The locking bit holder is the same as WERA’s: Search for BHS 60.
“The Stig” Yes, it is true, at least some part of it..
“If you have an old Land Rover and a fit wife, you’re most likely always busy”

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline m8

  • Posts: 59
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #61 on: February 19, 2021, 07:58 PM »
I own a Dewalt Impact and Hammer Drill along with the Milwaukee Installation Driver (Festool CXS copy) and I don't enjoy using any of them.  Unfortunately most drill drivers are designed by marketing departments for YouTube videos because usually they all have a ton of power but are too powerful for most of my situations. 

I purchased the Milwaukee Installation Driver instead of the CXS because of limited platform of the batteries but after using the Milwaukee version I'm seriously considering buying the CXS.

When my Delwalts finally let out that last puff of smoke I will probably replace them with their respective Festool.

I do wish Festool would open up their Centrotec accessories along with updating the CXS to their 18 volt platform.

Offline Imemiter

  • Posts: 138
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #62 on: February 19, 2021, 08:23 PM »

Are there any tips/sets you recommend I pickup for it?

I'd still pimp the Snappy Centrotec sets. Since getting a CSX, the Jacobs Chuck has become this strange unwieldy kludge.  [laughing]



 
CSX, TID 18, HKC 55, OSC 18, OF 1010, Domino XL, DTS 400, ETS 125, RAS 115, LR32, CTSys, CTMidi, CT-VA-20

Offline Bugsysiegals

  • Posts: 806
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #63 on: February 20, 2021, 09:11 AM »
I’ve three sized Vix and plenty of drill bits but would need to swap to the drill chuck ... is the advantage of Centrotec drill bits that you don’t need to carry the chuck adapter or also something else?

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1606
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Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #64 on: February 20, 2021, 09:26 AM »
Quick change is the biggest advantage, second comes weight and compactness. Using Centrotec can, depending on accessory, make the difference in small spots, speaking of overall length drill + drill bit.

That said, I think it's crucial to have the keyless chuck as well. So you don't have to put specialized drill bits in the 1/4" bit holder for drilling.

Kind regards,
Oliver
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 799
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #65 on: February 20, 2021, 09:39 AM »
The compactness thing doesn't really apply to the CXS. That thing is huge in comparison to other 12V drills.


Code: [Select]
https://youtu.be/XmYbYxEyA3E?t=580

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1606
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Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #66 on: February 20, 2021, 09:46 AM »
Please read my post correctly/ in the right context. We are talking about the keyless chuck vs. Centrotec chuck. In some instances using Centrotec is more compact than chucking a drill bit inside the keyless chuck.

Kind regards,
Oliver
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 799
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #67 on: February 20, 2021, 10:57 AM »
Please read my post correctly/ in the right context. We are talking about the keyless chuck vs. Centrotec chuck. In some instances using Centrotec is more compact than chucking a drill bit inside the keyless chuck.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Even in that context a Bosch GSR 12v with chuck will be more compact than the CXS with Centrotec chuck.

The body of the CXS is somewhat thinner though, that gives an advantage in some cases.

But the GSR bit storage is non-existent by default and the add-on one is garbage compared to Festool.

It's still a shame they didn't make an excenter chuck for the CXS.

Offline six-point socket II

  • Posts: 1606
  • formerly @the_black_tie_diyer - 22/02/21 inactive.
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #68 on: February 20, 2021, 11:21 AM »
It's not about a different make/model. It's about CXS + keyless chuck or CXS + Centrotec chuck. Please read the question that was asked in #63 .

I give up/ surrender now. :)

Kind regards,
Oliver
Kind regards,
Oliver

"... . Say yes to stuff, and it will take you interesting places." - Anne Richards, CEO Fidelity International

Offline SRSemenza

  • Global Moderator
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  • Posts: 9532
  • Finger Lakes Region, NY State , USA
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #69 on: February 20, 2021, 01:15 PM »
I’ve three sized Vix and plenty of drill bits but would need to swap to the drill chuck ... is the advantage of Centrotec drill bits that you don’t need to carry the chuck adapter or also something else?

Overall -- it is a built in compact quick change. Shorter, lighter, no spinning Jacobs, less wobble.

I think Centrotec makes a bigger difference on the T/C 18 (and previous 12v, 15v) than on the CXS. Because it makes a bigger difference on a full size , full power drill, than on the CXS when compared to other brands. I don't think the CXS is the best case drill to look at when asking "why Festool drills".

There is a lot of personal preference, type of work, situational usage involved with choosing a drill. As far as Centrotec goes --- some people love it, some people are indifferent, some people hate it.

Snappy makes three sizes of self centering (Vix) bits that fit the Centrotec chuck.



Seth
« Last Edit: February 20, 2021, 01:20 PM by SRSemenza »

Offline SRSemenza

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Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #70 on: February 20, 2021, 01:20 PM »
One thing, that is often overlooked,  when comparing the Centrotec chuck to Jacobs is that you don't accidentally end up with
 the spinning chuck rubbing against another surface next to the drill. Granted this is a perfect application for the eccentric chuck (love that thing) but the eccentric doesn't always  work out depending on the drill bit and situation ( EX- using the 90 degree. Which is much better with Centrotec than Jacobs).

Seth

Offline FestitaMakool

  • Posts: 845
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #71 on: February 20, 2021, 02:31 PM »
One thing, that is often overlooked,  when comparing the Centrotec chuck to Jacobs is that you don't accidentally end up with
 the spinning chuck rubbing against another surface next to the drill. Granted this is a perfect application for the eccentric chuck (love that thing) but the eccentric doesn't always  work out depending on the drill bit and situation ( EX- using the 90 degree. Which is much better with Centrotec than Jacobs).

Seth

The non spinning and rubbing chuck is a very good point to Centrotec’s favour. And the fact that it makes the larger 18V drills much lighter and more compact. That said, I often use my other compact drill with a Jacobs chuck rather than putting that on the CXS, which does it rather long and front heavy. I would off course not be without the Jacobs chuck on the CXS, but I tend to bring the other and use both to each task.
“The Stig” Yes, it is true, at least some part of it..
“If you have an old Land Rover and a fit wife, you’re most likely always busy”

Offline slavi.yordanov

  • Posts: 32
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #72 on: February 22, 2021, 07:41 PM »
The problem with Centrotec in my opinion is that it’s supposed to help with bit wobble, but I really don’t think the difference with a standard 1/4 hex is that big.

Also all the Centrotec stuff is way overpriced. Some will say everything Festool is overpriced, but considering the three year wear and tear warranty, systainer with every tool, and made in Germany (mostly), the price makes sense.

The BHS60 adapter for example is $30, which is made by Wera. It’s double the price of the standard 1/4 hex bit holder by Wera, and their stuff is not cheap either.

So I think a fair comparison is between Centrotec and standard 1/4 hex drive, when comparing different manufacturers.

The Bosch posted above actually works with Cetrotec bits (the stubby drill bits) and they are actually locked. Also the Festool hand driver by Wiha works on both standard 1/4 and centrotec bits, and there is zero play, I don’t know why that can’t be incorporated into a drill/impact.


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Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #73 on: February 22, 2021, 07:56 PM »
So I think a fair comparison is between Centrotec and standard 1/4 hex drive, when comparing different manufacturers.
It is not. A comparison (at the time Centrotec came out) did not exist. That is why Festool came up with the system to begin with IMO.

Today, you can approximate the quick-change-chuck part.
You can also (partially) approximate the locking-bitholder-directly-on-shaft part by getting some of the other vendors hex drive locking mini-chucks.

But you still cannot approximate both in one tool and the simplicity it gives.

Even if we ignore the Centrotec bits entirely, the quick-chuck + BHS combo are STILL way better solution than anything else on the market.

Do not like Centrotec bit. Do not use them. No one is forcing you.
It is a capability you get in addition to all the other great features which also other makers have.

No reason to be jealous of Festool users then. Right ?
 [big grin]
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline JeremyH.

  • Posts: 251
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #74 on: February 22, 2021, 10:11 PM »
CXS thinner > stout Bosch.

I can put a 90 adapter that I don't have to hold from turning on the CXS that gets it into VERY short spaces. But really the thinness helps a lot in many situations.

It is the best one to look at for why Festool. But the "system" approach to all the new stuff is probably the biggest reason why to look at other stuff.

Anyways continue to over-analyze and talk about stuff like how bots write reviews that are plastered all over the web for most products  [tongue]
CXS;RO150;CT26e  KSS400;MT55cc;DDF 40

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 7249
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #75 on: February 23, 2021, 01:14 AM »
The problem with Centrotec in my opinion is that it’s supposed to help with bit wobble, but I really don’t think the difference with a standard 1/4 hex is that big.

Also all the Centrotec stuff is way overpriced. Some will say everything Festool is overpriced, but considering the three year wear and tear warranty, systainer with every tool, and made in Germany (mostly), the price makes sense.

I hear people repeating about the bit wobble, but I never have heard Festool say anything about that. I wonder where the idea comes from?

And yes, everything Festool is way overpriced.

Offline slavi.yordanov

  • Posts: 32
Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #76 on: February 23, 2021, 01:50 AM »
I hear people repeating about the bit wobble, but I never have heard Festool say anything about that. I wonder where the idea comes from?

And yes, everything Festool is way overpriced.

From video, for me specifically.

When stuff is made in Germany (Europe), people complain it’s expensive. When it’s cheap, they complain it’s made in China.

So I did some testing. The brad point stubby bit has these additional notches in the shaft, which allows it be locked inside my Bosch. The bit holder doesn’t have these notches for some reason, but when inserted has noticeably less play than a standard hex bit holder. I would try if the stubby bits lock in the TID or my Milwaukee impacts. I guess the wobble has more to with the ball detent on standard 1/4 hex bits than anything else really.

Offline Alex

  • Posts: 7249
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #77 on: February 23, 2021, 07:20 AM »
From video, for me specifically.

Peter Parfitt is great guy and long time member here, but he is not Festool.

A system where you insert bits that are not clamped down will always have some wobble.

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #78 on: February 23, 2021, 08:31 AM »
I hear people repeating about the bit wobble, but I never have heard Festool say anything about that. I wonder where the idea comes from?

Probably anecdotal experience. It _is_ possible to make hex components to the same tolerance as the Cetrotec is being made to from the get go.

You buy Centrotec, you get guaranteed "wobbliness" which is generally on the better/best side of the scale. But that is more of a side-effect IMO.

Festool did not use /actually they did, you can fit hex bits directly into the shaft/ native hex simply because they needed additional STRENGTH so it can be used to carry the full Jacobs chucks etc. So they took the torque from the hex but the guiding aspect is using the MUCH STRONGER outer cylinder which allows for more consistent precision but mainly more strength.

The Centrotec system bits compatible with the special chuck is only part of the system. The primary purpose is the quick-change chucks capability which cannot be achieved but a simple hex internal bit itself.
You need to compare that with other systems using balls for torque etc. which are generally inferior for torque transfer but was patent-free till late.
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 799
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #79 on: February 23, 2021, 09:24 AM »
CXS thinner > stout Bosch.

I can put a 90 adapter that I don't have to hold from turning on the CXS that gets it into VERY short spaces. But really the thinness helps a lot in many situations.

See the same Youtube video I posted from 18:00 on. The CXS 90 degree adapter isn't that special. The thinness is nice, but same can be achieved with longer bit with other machines, while the shorter body can never be achieved by Festool. So you are going to use the 90 degree adapter more.

One thing, that is often overlooked,  when comparing the Centrotec chuck to Jacobs is that you don't accidentally end up with
 the spinning chuck rubbing against another surface next to the drill. Granted this is a perfect application for the eccentric chuck (love that thing) but the eccentric doesn't always  work out depending on the drill bit and situation ( EX- using the 90 degree. Which is much better with Centrotec than Jacobs).

Seth

Competitors now also have products that have 90 degree adapters without using any Jacob's chuck.

The Festool system remains the easiest I have to say. But last year, when I bought new drills, I looked at a Festool T18 Set... and for less money I got a Bosch GSR 18v-60, a GSR 12v-35 and a GSR 12v-35 FC with all the chucks, total 6 batteries. If I have a drill / drive job I now have a machine for each, so no exchanging heads at all.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2021, 09:27 AM by Coen »

Offline slavi.yordanov

  • Posts: 32
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #80 on: February 23, 2021, 10:04 AM »
Centrotec is nice, don’t get me wrong, but the price to get all the necessary bits is ridiculous. It’s very cleverly designed and I see the benefit of having a few of these adapters loaded with different bits. Still slower than having to drills ready to go through.

I have used my Centrotec head less than ten times, since regular drills suck for driving screws. I don’t have any Centrotec drilling bits, except the stubby ones, but they lock nicely in to my Bosch Flexiclick. And they have the same amount of wobble as when mounted on my C18.

Interestingly when looking at older pictures all Centrotec bits had the little notches in the shaft, where the Bosch locks them. Most of the new bits do not have these notches..

I love my C18 for what I use it for. It has the keyless chuck and 90 degree adapter attached to it 95% of the time. I mainly use 7/8 hex shank Hole Saw bits for drilling through 2x material. The thing fits perfectly in subfloor space. Centrotec drill bits will not work in my application, so I’m not really excited about it. One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #81 on: February 23, 2021, 11:25 AM »
One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.
It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 799
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #82 on: February 23, 2021, 11:34 AM »
One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.
It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

Offline grobkuschelig

  • Posts: 683
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #83 on: February 23, 2021, 12:02 PM »
He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

Until a couple of years ago, Festool was selling a Wiha-made screwdriver handle with a Centrotec part as the „Blade“.

These were also part of the installer kits and would allow you to use all your Centrotec equipment manually as well.

I have one in every drill Systainer and use these to release drills from the chuck or manual tasks. But they might be very hard to get nowadays...



As with everything regarding tools, you need to find what you like for yourself.
I for one definitely appreciate the Centrotec system and the Festool drills.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8166
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #84 on: February 23, 2021, 12:13 PM »

I have one in every drill Systainer and use these to release drills from the chuck or manual tasks. But they might be very hard to get nowadays...


Great idea...I now have a new use for mine.  [smile]

Offline slavi.yordanov

  • Posts: 32
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #85 on: February 23, 2021, 01:00 PM »
One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.
It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.
I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.


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Offline Alex

  • Posts: 7249
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #86 on: February 23, 2021, 02:13 PM »
I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

But you can, I do it all the time. Why doesn't yours? Just lift the locking collar up and off it should go. See if there's some metal shavings inside, or other dirt, and spray it with WD40. 

Offline mino

  • Posts: 222
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #87 on: February 23, 2021, 02:31 PM »
One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.
It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.
Ok, not what was written.

But in that case that is a natural property of every quick-change chuck system I have ever seen. Including those on CNCs etc. With no machine (or some contraption) connected, there is nothing to stop the shaft from moving in a chuck.

Normally it is not an issue. The quick-chuck system is about having as-many-as-needed-for-project chucks so that you do not change tools in chucks but whole chucks on tool/between tools.
AGC 18(@AGC 125 flange), BHC 18, C 12, CTM 36, DRC 18/4, PSC 420, RS 200, TSC 55
Narex: EDH 82, EFH 36(fixed@LR32), EVP 13 H-2CA
My Precious FS/2: 376, 376, 376 holy, 632, 1016 holy, 2520

Offline Coen

  • Posts: 799
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #88 on: February 23, 2021, 03:04 PM »
One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.
It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.
I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.


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Huh what. I do that all the time. Well, did. I now mainly use my Bosch drills.

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 8166
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #89 on: February 23, 2021, 06:22 PM »

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.


I do that all the time, if I have a lot of repetitive holes to drill with 2 different sized drills, I chuck the smaller bit in the CXS chuck and then chuck the larger bit in the C 15 chuck and swap chucks around on the CXS as needed. Swapping chucks is faster than swapping drill bits.

Offline slavi.yordanov

  • Posts: 32
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #90 on: February 23, 2021, 07:52 PM »
I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

But you can, I do it all the time. Why doesn't yours? Just lift the locking collar up and off it should go. See if there's some metal shavings inside, or other dirt, and spray it with WD40.
I actually have tried again after reading your post. At first it wouldn’t budge, but after some persuasion it came out. I put some lube  on the chuck and it seems to be better now.

I have accepted it as a safety feature before, even though it would make sense to have two or three chucks ready to swap between.

Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.


Offline Alex

  • Posts: 7249
Re: Festool drills / drivers, Why?
« Reply #91 on: February 24, 2021, 01:10 AM »

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.


I do that all the time, if I have a lot of repetitive holes to drill with 2 different sized drills, I chuck the smaller bit in the CXS chuck and then chuck the larger bit in the C 15 chuck and swap chucks around on the CXS as needed. Swapping chucks is faster than swapping drill bits.

I do that sometimes too, but you know what's even faster? Not swapping chucks but swapping drills.  [smile]

I often have my 3 drills at hand, C12, T15 & Ti15 fitted with a different bit when I'm working.

With that line-up you have you should never have to swap a bit again.