I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.

Quote from: Alex on February 11, 2021, 03:59 PM

Quote from: Bugsysiegals on February 11, 2021, 03:11 PM

I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.

I would hope so.  But the question is does it justify the price?   Look at folks all looking for the impact driver, when basically all tool companies make them, so you have them in what ever battery you like, and they are cheap, and will bash a screw in all the same.

How precise do you need a drill?

@Bugsysiegals there are plenty of other threads to discuss the various drill offerings. @Alex said it best, their quality is very good.

Back to the Recon tools.

I've used several different models of Festool cordless drills. They were powerful and long-running. But I have zero plans to own any of them. My Bosch and Black & Decker drills (5 in total plus extra affordable aftermarket batteries) serve all my drilling needs. I couldn't feel any difference in ergonomics between mine and the Festool ones that I've had experience with.

I do have two corded drills that are more powerful and long-lasting than any Festool or non-Festool drills.

I bought a TXS because of the small size and weight primarily, and secondly because of the interchangeable chucks.  At the time, no other makers offered that sort of package.
Its my most-used drill now.

Quote from: Bugsysiegals on February 11, 2021, 03:11 PM

I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

Actually better quality. There is no comparable drill on the market that you can control so precise as the Festool T and C series.

Then the DRC/PDC were pretty unique (alone even?) with its 4-speed gearbox and still are special in that front.

The CSX, a specialist "cabinet installers" tool which no one else really makes - as the market is so small.

The BHC is a really nice tool, not much better than competition, but still really *nice* to use and priced reasonably /yeah a Festool priced reasonably .... /.

Etc. Etc.

All of this has been discussed to exhaustion. Plain and simple.

I'm not rude, I'm tired. Especially of this brand loyalty B/S. I have (power) tools from so many brands, so many different battery platforms - because I buy what fits me, my needs, my wants best. End of story. Drills like the DRC/PDC or drivers like the DWC were or still are best in class for a long time, the DWC still is, because there simply is no comparable product on the market. (Or is there a cordless driver that delivers 4500 RPM and an auto function, where the bit sits idle until pressure is applied and the trigger does not need to be pulled, yet in reverse pulling the trigger will activate it without any pressure needed?)

Are there drills with longer runtime per Ah, higher capacity batteries, "more power", and relying solely on 1/4" accessories. YES. If you want that, there's only one option though: move on.

In regards to that Milwaukee M12 FDDX, yes it has more chucks, yes it stands on a way bigger battery platform, yes it's brushless. I'd still take my CXS over it any day - because it does what I need it to do, it has way better ergonomics, and overall quality is a world apart. But sure, the Milwaukee has more power, brushless motor and comes with more chucks.

And just for the records, I own M12 tools and I'm on the battery platform.

And yes, it's a pity there's not more 12V coming from Festool. (Hence the Milwaukee ownership ...)

Calling me a fanboy is plain and simple silly, because it's not true. I address my complaints & thoughts to where they are being heard and people can actually do something about it.

Has my tone changed and my responses to questions of "brand loyalty". Yes.

Still, I always send my kind regards,
Oliver

The control I can get with the trigger on my T18 is definitely better than any other drill I have owned, it is a pleasure to use.

But yeah going on drill reviews the most important thing is how many hundred screws it can put in on one charge or how quickly it can put on of those 18" long screws that we all use all the time 

@Bugsysiegals  - Try one, and decide for yourself  I did, and added two C handle Festool drills to my “arsenal” of drills. I’ve been through (Trough work and ownership) ; ELU, DeWalt, Panasonic, Milwaukee, Hitachi (Now Hikoki) and Makita also the odd “Private label” brands.
Panasonic and Makita is the ones that have had the best driver control of all I’ve handled, except Festool.

This comes down to marketing. Especially one brand is very “GOOD” at marketing,
they “SHOUT” TM. I have learned from my background in marketing to be sceptical to brands that shout too much. They need to “PROVE” TM something, keeping your eyes away from what they “DONT” TM want you to see. It’s not that they don’t make good products, they even have gems, but certainly not the whole range.
YouTube “REVIEWS” TM are mostly just a joke as others have mentioned. There are a very few that do fairly thorough tests that cover “ALL ASPECTS” TM...
ANY tester who uses “trigger pumping” techniques should be discarded as a tester who goes through all the aspects that a tester should, as an example. Many just focus on one or two things, and one or two tasks, and most test the drills to what they were NOT designed for.
Anyone with marketing competence would give these “testers” their tools, because they designed the tool to shine in that exact department.. jeeez🙄

Therefore, listen to good craftsmen, PROFFESIONAL sellers who will point out exactly every plus and minus on a tool. Then you’ll learn to separate “reviewers” quite fast

And most of all, listen to “the silent marketing”
Marketing cost, a lot! And they who do big time are pulling the money to do so from somewhere. Smaller brands rely on the “silent” marketing, and maybe uses the income to actual product improvement instead, cause they build a brand by feedback from professionals and enthusiasts. They don’t care about being present at any big box store at all.

Therefore, test a Festool for yourself, and see what it can do for YOU

Edit: Inspired by Cheese, here’s a family photo that made its chance by accident while tidying my “new” work space. In addition I’ve got a CXS and a C18. The CXS and smallest of the teals are the most used: (sorry for the clutter, but as I tidy I didn’t want to tip the drills and placed them all the way back)

Well for conversation's sake, here's my line-up of cordless drills & drivers...

Wow, that's an impressive line-up, Cheese. Why do you need (want?) so many drills (assuming every one of them is kept in your shop)?

I have only 5, 4 in the shop (image -- you can tell the Bosch drills with the batteries mounted are what I often use in the winter. Other batteries including the spare ones are kept in the house until the spring season returns).

For me, the most important drilling tool is the drill press for precision work. I seldom use screws in my furniture work, and drilling with a cordless drill is mostly for hinges, knobs, cabinetmaker's buttons, etc. I've used Festool drills including the CXS for some assembly work, but frankly, I couldn't justify any of them based on my low usage (not based on budget).

Hey, for some work, my go-to drilling tools are hand-operated. ...Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

I agree that trying out a tool in person is a good call in addition to reading tool reviews. Before my investment in the Kapex, DF500, and sanders (as well as TS75 and CT26 that were subsequently sold), I had used them for a brief period of time. I've also used the DF700 and decided it isn't the right tool for my work (no, despite what others may say, its weight does matter when I have hundreds of mortises to mill).

P.S. The best-value drill for me is the B&D drill close to the Bosches. Its aftermarket batteries are very affordable; I think I have 3 spare batteries to share between the two B&Ds, totaling 5 batteries for them. They're used from spring to fall, and winter if the Bosches run out of juice.

..Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

Festool does not but Bridge City Tools makes a nifty bit and brace type tool to set screws.  It looks like a cute little tool until you look at the price.

These have the best run time of anything!  You just have to keep pumping fuel into the operator.  Precision varies a lot though depending on the operator.   


Seth

Quote from: Yardbird on February 13, 2021, 11:47 AM

..Does Festool offer any hand-crank drills?

Festool does not but Bridge City Tools makes a nifty bit and brace type tool to set screws.  It looks like a cute little tool until you look at the price.

These have the best run time of anything!  You just have to keep pumping fuel into the operator.  Precision varies a lot though depending on the operator.   


Seth

Not to mention the low end torque you get, tirelessly winding at very low speed. The speed may vary by the fuel injected

I’d like one again, had but lost one. Still it’s kind of like hand sawing and hand planing. It’s the feeling of working with wood at a closer level. I’d pass on the Bridge City though, the price is, how should I say, quite calming

Hey guys, thanks for sharing specific examples of why these are worthwhile for you.  I decided to stimulate the economy today and pickup a reconditioned CXS.

I figured I’d try it out and if I’m just as happy with my M12 1/4” impact I’ll sell it and put the money towards the VAC SYS which is next on my list ... at least I’ll know I tried it but hey ... maybe I’ll really like it!

I’m also tired of  from fanboys proclaiming festool drills the best simply because they , themselves, like them or it’s simply a festool. Bugsy asked a legitimate question at the place most likely to have the insight.  To tell him to move on because he doesn’t “get it” at first glance is kinda rude.

It would be nice of you to avoid the strawman production. They are piling up over here.

Pretty much no one said the Festool products are "the best" here. To begin with, "best at what ?".

Is the CXS the most controlable small driver on the market. Absolutely.
Is it the most powerful? No way.
Most cost-effective? No way.
Most <insert random quantitative property>? Most likely not.

For someone who rates the controlability above all, it can be the best tool for the job.

This is why we have different manufacturers catering to different needs. It is called a market.

One can compete on power, on price, on battery platforms.
Or one can compete by laser-focusing on a specific property which no one focuses (so much) on and create "a market for oneself" like Festool /and Apple, and many others/.

If people fit onto that demographic, it means they often naturally align with the priorities of the company. Then, given it is often the only company laser-focusing on their specific needs, they may even give the company some slack when it messes up..

This is natural. If there is no other (or very few) company which matches ones philosophy, one WANTS the company to succeed. As a successful company means more products which will make the person smile.

It is also natural that people will not give such slack to the "main market" companies. Those are not unique, their products are generally interchangeable. So there is no practical benefit for the customer for either company to succeed. Mainstream products will still be available to buy regardless.

But take Festool. The RAS is no longer produced and NO ONE ELSE has respective product like it on the market. This means "Festool not succeed means I cannot buy the tool at all". So naturally, I would care for that not happening.

I would not care for a mass market product like that - as there is no risk I will no longer be able to buy a casual power drill regardless if Milwaukee went out of business. Most likely I would not be able to buy "CXS analogue" if Festool stopped making it. A fundamentally different scenario.

I have quite a few Festool drills and will say there is nothing I have run across that is as precise. Most importantly I have drills from 2006 and 2008 that are still fully functional and used regularly. I also have newer ones. All I have done on the old ones is replace the batteries.

For those of you with Festool and other brand cordless tools ... do you buy Centrotec bits or an adapter so you use all your existing 1/4” bits?

Both. Whatever I need. Or come across.

But take Festool. The RAS is no longer produced and NO ONE ELSE has respective product like it on the market. This means "Festool not succeed means I cannot buy the tool at all". So naturally, I would care for that not happening.

I would not care for a mass market product like that - as there is no risk I will no longer be able to buy a casual power drill regardless if Milwaukee went out of business. Most likely I would not be able to buy "CXS analogue" if Festool stopped making it. A fundamentally different scenario.

So I agree with you, but this is also something that varies by country.  In the US, you basically have the mass market tools, and then a niche of Festool, and a niche in the niche of Mafell.  All the Festool stuff is already hard to get/niche/not available here to start.  Tools that were offered, just go away (folks could create a long list), or just were never offered.  So with that, buying anything Festool becomes a questionable move, as you don't know when the rug will be pulled out.  Like you say, if something goes away, and you just go to another brand, then not a big deal, but here, Festool can be the only brand with a tool of a type out there.  Buying anything Festool is a risk.  In Europe, there is basically no risk of the tool just going away regionally there, but still be around elsewhere (CMS being the only real strange story). And if a tool goes away, you have such a large install base of Festool stuff, you're not left with a freak tool. And then you have manufactures of similar stuff to Festool, which either don't exist here, or they sell just a tiny portion of their stuff here.  Batteries will always make things harder.  The good news it the tool is now global verses corded, the bad news is you have a battery system, so tossing it for something else is never fun.   For those who use their tools every day (professionals), regular battery/tool replacement might just be normal. But for those who are hobbiest, it becomes a bigger issue.   You see in the US where Milwaukee, dewalt have branched out to things like yard tools and everything else one can think of, so folks can maximize battery usage of those systems.

I’ve never understood the desire for the Festool cordless drill/drivers ... is it brand loyalty, same batteries as the cordless circular saw, actually better quality/ergonomics??

For me it is because of better quality and ergonomics.  I make no claim to quantify.  I own drills and drivers from DeWalt, Milwaukee and Festool. My Milwaukee Surge is my daily workhorse.  Although I own 2 CSX's my go to light drill is my Milwaukee 4 in 1, followed closely by my CSX.  For cabinet assembly I choose the CSX.  For heavy drilling, my Festool PDC 18, no question. 

The Festool drills just feel better in my hands.  I want to own tools I enjoy using.  Adding new battery platforms is not a real concern for me.

Given that these tools will last MANY years, price is not an overriding factor.  If it were price alone it be at Harbor Freight.

Like others have said; no need to hate, just don't buy.  I don't hate Makita but I don't own any either.  I came close to buying their cordless router several times and still might buy one (after all it comes in a Systainer!)

For those of you with Festool and other brand cordless tools ... do you buy Centrotec bits or an adapter so you use all your existing 1/4” bits?

My CSX came with a magnetic 1/4" adapter. But I spent probably $200 picking up Centrotec bits from Festool and Snappy. Maybe a little more than that actually... The Snappy sets are good kit, imo. The drill set is perfectly fine, if Imperial. And the countersinks and center (Vix) bits are serviceable. On top of that I've tried to get only the bits I'm using regularly - Phillips and Pozi 2&3s, 1&2 Robertsons, a few Torx. Lately I've been doing a lot of door and cabinet hardware and it's been great moving from job to job with just the CSX and the few five or six bits I need.     

I like the CXS, does everything it should and is super comfortable to use. I think the battery situation is a bit weird, but doesn't worry me that much. Great drill/driver for cabinet work, door hardware etc.
My go to cordless platform is Fein - build quality is superb, batteries are fantastic. They don't have a huge range, but cover enough to keep me happy.
One platform will never be enough. I currently run - Fein, Festool, Hikoki and Mafell.
If I had Festool saws, instead of Mafell, I'd probably use their drills as well.

I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.

I just picked up the TID 18 set. Not because I particularly wanted the TID 18 but because it was the cheapest path to getting into the 18V batteries for the Vecturo. It's a nice enough impact, feels good in the hand. Had I not needed the 18V batteries, I would've gotten a Milwaukee Surge instead.

@DynaGlide I am following that same thought process.  I have the Vecturo coming this week and I wanted another drill with same battery config.  I still don't know enough about the features of each drill.  The only for sure thing is I don't need a noisy hammer drill.  Can you tell me which T18 set you got?  I also saw the T 18 E but I don't know what the E stands for.  I do have simple drilling needs, nothing special but this set below looks to be a good choice for me.

Festool 576494 Screw&drill Set TID18 HPC 4,0I-Set T18

I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.

I'd be interested in that drill if you sell it.

I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries

@Josh2 Hey Josh, on that T18 E, can you tell me if this model has a clutch? 

I am tempted to keep it but will DM if I change my mind over the next 3 days.

Quote from: Josh2 on February 17, 2021, 08:52 AM

I just got a T18 Easy kit through the recon sale only for the batteries (@DynaGlide, isn't that the cheapest kit for the batteries).

My plan was to sell the drill maybe for $120 and keep the batteries. Would have been a cheap way to get two 4Ah batteries with bluetooth. Now that I have the drill, it's so much nicer than my Milwaukee M18 brushless (not the FUEL). The first thing I noticed was how quiet it is. The Milwaukee is super loud for a drill compared to the T18. Big difference for me. Second, the electronic torque setting through the dial in the back is much more precise. I also really like that there is a separate switch for drilling versus driving so you can leave the torque setting untouched when switching. Third, the overall feel is certainly better but I wouldn't have kept the T18 just for that.

My 2 cents from someone with a small collection of drills.

I'd be interested in that drill if you sell it.

Yes, the T18 E has that functionality. What you are talking is the drill clutch to control the torque. On most drills, it's behind the chuck in the front of the drill. On the T18 it's a small dial on the back of the drill and is arguably (more precise, you can switch between drilling and driving without changing the setting).

Maybe there is T18 E left on the recon sales, which would bring the price down to about $240 but reduce warranty to 1 year.

Quote from: Josh2 on February 17, 2021, 01:26 PM

It has the dial in the back for electronic torque control (not sure if you still call it clutch). No traditional clutch in the front. I think that is the same as the standard T18+3. Does that answer your question?

Thanks Josh.  I have to admit my lack of skill in this area (most areas I am finding out...).  I don't know if clutch is the proper term but what I am looking for is the function to change a dial so that when the screw gets so far down (flush preferable), it stops driving it anymore and makes different noise.

I hope the T 18 E has this because for $300 I get 2 more batteries and, essentially, another drill and systainer for $60 since the batteries list at $120 a piece.  But even if it doesn't, I still have plenty of drills that do.

Quote from: Josh2 on February 17, 2021, 01:26 PM

It has the dial in the back for electronic torque control (not sure if you still call it clutch). No traditional clutch in the front. I think that is the same as the standard T18+3. Does that answer your question?

Thanks Josh.  I have to admit my lack of skill in this area (most areas I am finding out...).  I don't know if clutch is the proper term but what I am looking for is the function to change a dial so that when the screw gets so far down (flush preferable), it stops driving it anymore and makes different noise.

I hope the T 18 E has this because for $300 I get 2 more batteries and, essentially, another drill and systainer for $60 since the batteries list at $120 a piece.  But even if it doesn't, I still have plenty of drills that do.

Get the T18.
Scratch this.
Just checked the US prices. The  T18E Plus option is very much a "tool for free" scenario. Impossible to argue against that.

original:
Not for Centrotec per se. But for getting 2 QUICK-change chucks. One for screw bits, Jacobs for drill bits. This alone is well worth the price difference.

You may decide to expand on that or not. But it is well worth the price difference between 18e and "18 proper". Worst case, you can still sell it along ...

I ordered the T 18 E yesterday and found the Festool Live video that was specifically for this drill.  Answered a lot of questions, glad I found it.

Are there any tips/sets you recommend I pickup for it?

Make sure you have the higher 2.6 Ah battery as the original 1.5 Ah battery goes away pretty quickly.

Unless somebody opened the batteries I've two 2.6 batteries.  Thanks!

Yes, they are aftermarket accessories, there’s a long hex 1/4” bit holder, essentially the same bit holder you got with the kit, only longer. (2 differs sizes in fact, in addition to the standard length you’ve got)
The locking bit holder is the same as WERA’s: Search for BHS 60.

Are there any tips/sets you recommend I pickup for it?

I'd still pimp the Snappy Centrotec sets. Since getting a CSX, the Jacobs Chuck has become this strange unwieldy kludge. 



 

Quick change is the biggest advantage, second comes weight and compactness. Using Centrotec can, depending on accessory, make the difference in small spots, speaking of overall length drill + drill bit.

That said, I think it's crucial to have the keyless chuck as well. So you don't have to put specialized drill bits in the 1/4" bit holder for drilling.

Kind regards,
Oliver

Please read my post correctly/ in the right context. We are talking about the keyless chuck vs. Centrotec chuck. In some instances using Centrotec is more compact than chucking a drill bit inside the keyless chuck.

Kind regards,
Oliver

It's not about a different make/model. It's about CXS + keyless chuck or CXS + Centrotec chuck. Please read the question that was asked in #63 .

I give up/ surrender now.

Kind regards,
Oliver

One thing, that is often overlooked,  when comparing the Centrotec chuck to Jacobs is that you don't accidentally end up with
 the spinning chuck rubbing against another surface next to the drill. Granted this is a perfect application for the eccentric chuck (love that thing) but the eccentric doesn't always  work out depending on the drill bit and situation ( EX- using the 90 degree. Which is much better with Centrotec than Jacobs).

Seth

The problem with Centrotec in my opinion is that it’s supposed to help with bit wobble, but I really don’t think the difference with a standard 1/4 hex is that big.

Also all the Centrotec stuff is way overpriced. Some will say everything Festool is overpriced, but considering the three year wear and tear warranty, systainer with every tool, and made in Germany (mostly), the price makes sense.

The BHS60 adapter for example is $30, which is made by Wera. It’s double the price of the standard 1/4 hex bit holder by Wera, and their stuff is not cheap either.

So I think a fair comparison is between Centrotec and standard 1/4 hex drive, when comparing different manufacturers.

The Bosch posted above actually works with Cetrotec bits (the stubby drill bits) and they are actually locked. Also the Festool hand driver by Wiha works on both standard 1/4 and centrotec bits, and there is zero play, I don’t know why that can’t be incorporated into a drill/impact.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CXS thinner > stout Bosch.

I can put a 90 adapter that I don't have to hold from turning on the CXS that gets it into VERY short spaces. But really the thinness helps a lot in many situations.

It is the best one to look at for why Festool. But the "system" approach to all the new stuff is probably the biggest reason why to look at other stuff.

Anyways continue to over-analyze and talk about stuff like how bots write reviews that are plastered all over the web for most products 

I hear people repeating about the bit wobble, but I never have heard Festool say anything about that. I wonder where the idea comes from?

And yes, everything Festool is way overpriced.

From video, for me specifically.

When stuff is made in Germany (Europe), people complain it’s expensive. When it’s cheap, they complain it’s made in China.

So I did some testing. The brad point stubby bit has these additional notches in the shaft, which allows it be locked inside my Bosch. The bit holder doesn’t have these notches for some reason, but when inserted has noticeably less play than a standard hex bit holder. I would try if the stubby bits lock in the TID or my Milwaukee impacts. I guess the wobble has more to with the ball detent on standard 1/4 hex bits than anything else really.

I hear people repeating about the bit wobble, but I never have heard Festool say anything about that. I wonder where the idea comes from?

Probably anecdotal experience. It _is_ possible to make hex components to the same tolerance as the Cetrotec is being made to from the get go.

You buy Centrotec, you get guaranteed "wobbliness" which is generally on the better/best side of the scale. But that is more of a side-effect IMO.

Festool did not use /actually they did, you can fit hex bits directly into the shaft/ native hex simply because they needed additional STRENGTH so it can be used to carry the full Jacobs chucks etc. So they took the torque from the hex but the guiding aspect is using the MUCH STRONGER outer cylinder which allows for more consistent precision but mainly more strength.

The Centrotec system bits compatible with the special chuck is only part of the system. The primary purpose is the quick-change chucks capability which cannot be achieved but a simple hex internal bit itself.
You need to compare that with other systems using balls for torque etc. which are generally inferior for torque transfer but was patent-free till late.

Centrotec is nice, don’t get me wrong, but the price to get all the necessary bits is ridiculous. It’s very cleverly designed and I see the benefit of having a few of these adapters loaded with different bits. Still slower than having to drills ready to go through.

I have used my Centrotec head less than ten times, since regular drills suck for driving screws. I don’t have any Centrotec drilling bits, except the stubby ones, but they lock nicely in to my Bosch Flexiclick. And they have the same amount of wobble as when mounted on my C18.

Interestingly when looking at older pictures all Centrotec bits had the little notches in the shaft, where the Bosch locks them. Most of the new bits do not have these notches..

I love my C18 for what I use it for. It has the keyless chuck and 90 degree adapter attached to it 95% of the time. I mainly use 7/8 hex shank Hole Saw bits for drilling through 2x material. The thing fits perfectly in subfloor space. Centrotec drill bits will not work in my application, so I’m not really excited about it. One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

Quote from: slavi.yordanov on February 23, 2021, 10:04 AM

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

I have one in every drill Systainer and use these to release drills from the chuck or manual tasks. But they might be very hard to get nowadays...

Great idea...I now have a new use for mine. 

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

But you can, I do it all the time. Why doesn't yours? Just lift the locking collar up and off it should go. See if there's some metal shavings inside, or other dirt, and spray it with WD40. 

Quote from: Coen on February 23, 2021, 11:34 AM

Quote from: mino on February 23, 2021, 11:25 AM

Quote from: slavi.yordanov on February 23, 2021, 10:04 AM

One thing that bothers me is that when a drill bit is locked in the keyless chuck, it can’t me removed from the drill like the Centrotec adapter.

It absolutely can I do it all the time.

You may want o check if your chuck does not experience some issue preventing this.

He means the drillbit itself can't be removed from the chuck if you already removed the chuck from the machine.

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Huh what. I do that all the time. Well, did. I now mainly use my Bosch drills.

Quote from: slavi.yordanov on February 23, 2021, 01:00 PM

I meant that the chuck can’t be removed from the drill, if a bit is locked inside.

But you can, I do it all the time. Why doesn't yours? Just lift the locking collar up and off it should go. See if there's some metal shavings inside, or other dirt, and spray it with WD40.

I actually have tried again after reading your post. At first it wouldn’t budge, but after some persuasion it came out. I put some lube  on the chuck and it seems to be better now.

I have accepted it as a safety feature before, even though it would make sense to have two or three chucks ready to swap between.