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Author Topic: 1010 vs 1400 routers  (Read 6510 times)

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Offline bw44

  • Posts: 8
1010 vs 1400 routers
« on: November 09, 2011, 09:54 AM »
which router would you recommend for dovetails with a leigh jig and 3/4 in. dadoes in plywood for shelves, drawer runners, etc.  the "lightness" of the 1010 i think would be an advantage.  thanks. bw44
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Offline Jesse Cloud

  • Posts: 1746
  • Festooling at the end of a dirt road in New Mexico
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2011, 10:06 AM »
Overall, I prefer the 1400 to the 1010 as a more versatile router.  But if all you are doing is jig work and dadoes the difference doesn't matter much.

For jig work, you want a light router with a low center of gravity to avoid tipping the router.  The 1010 is better on these two scores.

Unfortunately, most jigs are not designed for dust control.  I have tried using the 1010 on a porter cable jig and find that jig knobs and such interfere with the dust control accessories on the router.  Don't know if this is the case with your Leigh.

A possible deal breaker is that the 1010 will not accept 1/2 inch bits, but I presume you can use 1/4 or 8mm bits with your Leigh (but be sure before you buy a 1010).

The two should do equally well on the dadoes.

To tell the truth, neither of these uses need a plunge router.  If dust control isn't huge for you, consider a PC690 - perfect for jig work and will save some coin.
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Offline Festool USA

  • Festool USA Employee
    FOG Administrator
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  • Posts: 8423
    • Festool USA
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2011, 10:16 AM »
Like Jesse stated, the OF 1010 would be best suited for its size but if you need the capability to use 1/2" shank bits, you'll want to go with the OF 1400. Remember that we offer a 30-day money back guarantee. So, if you get one of the routers and decide it's not the right one for you, you can easily take it back and exchange it or return it.

Shane
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Offline MrToolJunkie

  • Posts: 2982
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2011, 10:41 AM »
I have a Leigh and I bought a 1010 to go with it...the bits Leigh sells are 8mm shank and its light-weight, low center of gravity is perfect for this application.  Leigh also sells the little dust-shroud that mounts on the front of the jig to aid with dust collection and the Festool vac attaches to that -- in fact, Leigh even uses a CT Dust Extractor in its videos.  You might consider getting two routers, though as it really is nice to not have to change bits -- so, you could get both a 1010 and a 1400  [laughing].

Scot

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Online waho6o9

  • Posts: 1740
    • Garage Door Handyman.com
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2011, 10:56 AM »
+1 on getting both.  One router with a straight bit to hog out material and the other with a dovetail bit.  This saves the dovetail bit from doing unnecessary work.
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Offline bw44

  • Posts: 8
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2011, 10:33 PM »
scottf thanks for your reply, will the dust shroud that comes with the 1010 work with the leigh jig or do you recommend buying the leigh dust collection.  thanks bw44
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Offline MrToolJunkie

  • Posts: 2982
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #6 on: November 10, 2011, 10:58 AM »
I bought the one Leigh sells - this actually gives your router a platform to rest on and prevents tipping.  It just snaps into place -- the video's on Leigh's site show how it works. 

Scot
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Offline Nick C

  • Posts: 157
Re: 1010 vs 1400 routers
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2012, 11:17 PM »
I have both the 1010 and the 1400. For me, the 1010 is the go-to machine for the Leigh jig. Nice, compact size. Lower center of gravity. More than enough power. The 8mm bits are perfect for this application. The plunge system--on either router--requires a different procedure for establishing cutter depth. I use the "Festool method." Zero the cutter depth on a flat surface. Use the depth scale to set the (approximate) depth. Make a test cut--just enough to see what the depth actually is. Compare the actual depth with the desired, and tweak with the micrometer adjustment.
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